28 ms·

Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

928 points by merraksh 9y ago

justinator 9y ago
Proper Planning and Practice Prevents Piss Poor Performance. and DEATH. In all seriousness, Alex's mental and physical conditioning to achieve this goal should be lauded, examined, written about, and taught.
- AdamN 9y ago
  They're already examining him for the ability to suppress fear (terror?) that would stop mere mortals
- Lordarminius 9y ago
  Lauded, examined, written about - I agree. Taught - Not so sure. Alex Honnold is an extreme outlier. We mortals may marvel but Im not sure his feat can be replicated so easily. I may be wrong. The guy is simply rad. I couldn't stop laughing at this: A lighter moment came later, Honnold said, when he passed some climbers who had spent the night on a ledge. He did his best not to wake them. "I woke up one guy and he sort of said, 'Oh, hey.' Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like 'What the f?'* Imagine yourself and your buddies 3/4 up the mountain and you see a guy coming down solo. It must take a minute to process the thought that he must have climbed up. wtf did I just see? Oh shit!!
  - cderwin 9y ago
    Of course it should be taught -- that doesn't mean everyone ought to try ridiculously dangerous feats like Alex did. But the practices that allowed him to do so are worthwhile nonetheless.
    - derefr 9y ago
      Maybe we're operating under two different definitions of "taught" here. You're using "taught", I think, in the sense of giving someone an "impressive feats in the history of climbing" lecture. Which, sure, why not. The parent seems to be using "taught" in more the sense that a master teaches an apprentice: giving you the skills, yes, but also putting you in that same situation, or encouraging you to participate in such a climb. Like, picture a skydiving instructor, only they're a "free-solo this particular mountain" instructor. They're giving you instruction and practice with the implicit goal of doing this dangerous thing at the end, and with the implicit suggestion that the course will be all you need to be fully prepared to do the thing at the end, with little risk. Such "teaching" would be very unlikely to succeed; it would more-often-than-not just kill people.
      - irrational 9y ago
        I'm a swimmer. I'd like someone to teach me how to have huge hands and feet like Michael Phelps so I can swim like him.
  - robotresearcher 9y ago
    Are you sure he was coming down?
    - Lordarminius 9y ago
      Had to read the relevant paragraph again. He was going up. Thanks.
  - DamnYuppie 9y ago
    I was reading a another article about this ascent yesterday and they brought up a great point. Prior to Roger Bannister running the 1st sub 4 minute mile it was thought to be impossible and beyond a humans capabilities. Once that barrier fell many more quickly pushed through it. There is something to someone moving the bar of what is possible. As a species we are incredible in our abilities and resolve to continually push ourselves.
    - baddox 9y ago
      In the case of the 4 minute mile, I assume lots of runners were training and were reasonably close, and of course someone has to be the first. I don't know if it can be shown that the first 4 minute mile inspired a bunch of other people to follow suit so quickly.
- tuna-piano 9y ago
  Alex is famous because he does "free soloing" - which doesn't use any ropes or safety at all. More people do "free climbing" which uses ropes just in case of fall. Anyone have any idea how often free climbers end up falling and needing their ropes? Could many good free climbers do what Honnold did, but just like the added bits of safety?
  - takk309 9y ago
    I climb but not at anywhere near the level of Honnold. That being said, free climbers fall quite a bit. Sport climbing, that is using bolts that are pre-placed as protection, often involves pushing to one's limit which of course means falling. Traditional climbing, using special gear and features in the rock for protection, does not involve as much falling since there is a higher risk of your gear popping out of its placement. Honnold has climbed this route with ropes many times and no doubt fell while doing it. He was well aware that he was capable of completing the climb without a fall.
    - tuna-piano 9y ago
      Any idea of how many people have free climbed this route? I'm really curious to know if Honnold is a one-of-a-kind climber or there are similar skill level climbers who just aren't willing to risk it without ropes? Either way he's amazing, but I'm curious to know how amazing.
      - privong 9y ago
        > Any idea of how many people have free climbed this route? I'm really curious to know if Honnold is a one-of-a-kind climber or there are similar skill level climbers who just aren't willing to risk it without ropes? I don't know how many people have freed that particular route (called "Freerider"), but SuperTopo says it's one of the easier routes on El Cap to free climb[0] (though it's still not any "easy" route by any stretch). But I think it's safe to say that Honnold is a one of a kind climber because free-soloing something takes a significantly higher level of self-control and self-confidence than freeing the same route does. So he's one of a kind precisely because he's willing to risk it without ropes. [0] http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-Freerider http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Ca...
- KboPAacDA3 9y ago
  I google him about once a year to see if he is still alive, and I'm surprised each time.
  - praneshp 9y ago
    Ha ha, I always find it difficult to choose between your joke, and the fact that someone sells this: https://www.rei.com/product/869679/maxim-alex-honnold-signature-bi-pattern-glider-99mm-x-70m-dry-rope https://www.rei.com/product/869679/maxim-alex-honnold-signat...
  - deleted 9y ago
    [deleted]
  - Lordarminius 9y ago
    > I google him about once a year to see if he is still alive, and I'm surprised each time. That's wickedly funny :) but alas I'm guilty of that too. I think he should just stop now
- moron4hire 9y ago
  (You missed "Prior" on the front, there)
- antisthenes 9y ago
  The only thing that should be taught in tandem is the definition of survivorship bias.
24gttghh 9y ago
It's things like this that make me ask myself, "Why don't I climb rocks more?" Then I remember I have a fear of falling to my death. It's a vicious cycle.
- bloudermilk 9y ago
  I got started by bouldering at the gym, which is an incredibly fun physical and mental challenge. It's all low-height (sub 15') climbing without any ropes over soft pads so you can fall without hurting yourself. After a couple of years I've built up the confidence to start rope climbing, but I know plenty of climbers who only boulder.
  - 24gttghh 9y ago
    I do know some folks who go bouldering, which is what I think I would do since it's relatively $ free :) I also hike a lot, which inevitably involves some short scrambles straight up. This may be the summer to expand. Thanks for the motivation!
- legohead 9y ago
  Fear of falling is natural, and good. If yours is a bonafide phobia, that will be a challenge of course, but some people climb in order to fight their phobia. There's an interesting progression with regard to fear in rock climbing. Bouldering is fairly limited, fear-wise (if you don't count highballs). It's a great way for anyone to get into climbing, and just have fun. Top-roping a wall is pretty benign as well, since if you fall it's usually just a couple feet. But the height can will still cause beginners to pause, but you should get over it fairly quickly. You will be too focused on the next move to think about the height, most of the time. Then you progress to lead climbing, where you pull the rope up with you (attached to your harness), and clip into quickdraws. Lead falls are much farther than top rope, in general, and you have the added physical challenge of finding a good position to do the clipping. This added physical challenge leads to mental drain as you have to gauge "can I make it to the next quickdraw and have enough energy to find a position to clip without falling?" The more you move up, the farther you're going to fall.. Then you have traditional (trad) climbing, where you place protection into the rock, in the form of cams and nuts and what not, and you clip into those. The physical challenge with finding a position to put protection is similar to lead, but now you have to hold the position longer, and after it's placed, you have the added mental strain of "will that piece of gear actually hold if I fall on it?" And then, you have Honnold here, with free soloing. You fall you die (or get super messed up). When I went from top roping to lead, it was like starting over again. The level I was climbing at plummeted (on lead), due to the mental game. Nowadays when I top rope, it's almost a joke (fear-wise). I can fly up a route on top rope, and then struggle up the same route on lead. -- One of the most interesting things about the sport, to me, is the whole mental challenge, and any climber will tell you the same. You are not just challenging yourself physically, but mentally. We all have to fight the fear, our weakness of mind.
vkou 9y ago
As a climber, I wish this were less widely publicized. Free soloing is extremely dangerous, and dozens of climbers - including experienced ones die doing it every year.
- hfourm 9y ago
  Of course it is, but that is also why it IS widely publicized. It is an incredible feat. I get the perspective of not wanting to encourage others to do X or Y, but everyone ultimately is responsible for their own safety with these types of things.
- takk309 9y ago
  I understand your position but I disagree. Honnold is well aware of the risks and has prepared as necessary to accomplish this feat. The media needs to better report on that aspect.
  - maxxxxx 9y ago
    There will be people trying to imitate this who don't know what they are getting into. In my view he could have shown the same level of accomplishment in a safer way and set an example.
    - function_seven 9y ago
      And when they do make the attempt, and fail, and die, they will be fine examples I'm sure. Mr. Honnold is obviously not interested in serving as a safety example, not sure why many here insist he fulfill that role.
      - maxxxxx 9y ago
        I have no problem with him but I think the media should not make him into a hero.
        kinkrtyavimoodh 9y ago
twoodfin 9y ago
There's a great documentary on the climbing culture of Yosemite and its evolution (including the equilibrium-punctuating arrival of Alex Honnold) available at least on Netflix: Valley Uprising. Worth a watch.
- wink 9y ago
  "Climbing the Nose" is also pretty cool, but about a different route as far as I can tell.
  - weaksauce 9y ago
    It is a different route and significantly harder and will likely never be free soloed for a long time if ever. The crux is so insecure that it's suicide.
    - wink 9y ago
      Thanks, I figured as much but in the articles on Honnold's ascent I didn't find any mention of a specific route.
      - skim- 9y ago
        It was Freerider on El Capitan, https://www.mountainproject.com/v/freerider/106261545 https://www.mountainproject.com/v/freerider/106261545
      - praneshp 9y ago
        Freerider. The other replier has the link for you. Mountain Project is a great website to use if you hear someone say they climbed up a route, and are curious about the route. You might want to checkout related articles on r/climbing, it's a reasonable community.
  - deleted 9y ago
    [deleted]
- Lordarminius 9y ago
bogomipz 9y ago
If you are interested in this or the history of climbing in Yosemite and and El Capitan I highly recommend the documentary "Valley Uprising." Even if you aren't necessarily interested in climbing its a beautiful documentary. It's available on Netflix. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/ http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/
- Fricken 9y ago
  I became interested in climbing in the early 90s, like the day before the climbing gym revolution swept the world, and there were two compendiums of hair raising tales I read that indoctrinated me into the spirit of climbing, and the experience of being in absolutely atrocious situations at the edge of the unknown: Mirrors in the Cliffs, and The Games Climbers Play. Recommended reading for anyone who might be into such a thing.
- mikepurvis 9y ago
  I'll just second this as someone not previously interested in climbing who was really drawn into Valley Uprising. From a purely technical point of view, it does some fascinating stuff bringing decades-old photographs and video clips to life on the rock face. You can get a taste of it from a number of clips that are in the trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw
- tenkabuto 9y ago
  It is very good. I watched it by chance because it happened to be on at a friend's house, and I got hooked almost immediately. The blend of personalities, history, and beautiful shots of Yosemite is wonderful.
- projectileboy 9y ago
  If you enjoy this, then I also highly recommend the book "The Vertical World of Yosemite". It's shame it's out of print, practically every story in there is a gem. https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-World-Yosemite-Collection-Photographs/dp/0911824871 https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-World-Yosemite-Collection-Ph...
- fauria 9y ago
irln 9y ago
First clip of Honnold's climb: https://goo.gl/LZ1jcq https://goo.gl/LZ1jcq
- prodikl 9y ago
  palms literally raining phew
lflux 9y ago
Some great pictures from the climb: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
- avip 9y ago
  Fantastic. I can't figure out where are these taken from?
  - lflux 9y ago
    Says in the post, "Far end of El Cap meadow"
    - avip 9y ago
      Right, thanks.
- gk1 9y ago
  Amazing photos that highlight how insane this was. My palms are very sweaty.
- nthcolumn 9y ago
  Can you believe the first comment 'Now let's see it done with Total Commitment' dude? My god there are some asshats in this world.
  - throwaway91111 9y ago
    It's not even sensical—like there was anything one could have done to help him in the event of a fall.
    - dagw 9y ago
      If he found himself unable to continue due to injury or fatigue they'd be able to help him down. But yea, extremely dumb comment.
whistlerbrk 9y ago
More more detail I'd read the National Geographic article linked in this NPR article, it has a very good history/background worth reading.
skookum 9y ago
Obligatory related entertainment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MubrSXdjjQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MubrSXdjjQ
skim- 9y ago
Check these awesome photos of the feat: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
DarkTree 9y ago
> "I woke up one guy and he sort of said, 'Oh, hey.' Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like 'What the f*?' " What an awesome story for a climber: "I was woken up on the wall by the first guy to free solo El Cap"
- NwtnsMthd 9y ago
  Oh, I'm sure they recognized Honnold. There probably aren't many serious climbers who don't know who he is.
  - atom-morgan 9y ago
    I've never climbed anything other than a rock wall in a gym. If I know Honnold, they know Honnold.
- goshx 9y ago
  "Dressed in a chicken suit" Check #6 here: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
  - rconti 9y ago
    This needs to be higher up. A great read. I was going to post it up top in reply to the person who posted the NatGeo link saying it was the best description of it, until I found it mentioned all the way down here :)
shriphani 9y ago
About Alex Honnold, there's just one thing that comes to mind - Unbridled Ambition. That same spirit that Caesar's men harnessed to build a bridge across the Rhine in 10 days, that led NASA to get to the moon in a decade, that led to the empire state building being erected in slightly over a year.
jron 9y ago
Interview: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/interview-rope-free-solo-climb-yosemite-el-capitan/ http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athlete... Pictures: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
ChicagoBoy11 9y ago
The thing that I've most loved while following Alex's exploits over the past few year is how he talks about his mental preparation. He always seems very well prepared for whatever route that he is climbing. To me, the biggest evidence of that is the fact that he quit doing this exact climb a few weeks ago because he felt conditions weren't right. That's really hard to do with media, etc. on your tail, even IF your life is literally at stake. It would be one thing if he were just incredibly bold and daring and were getting away with it; instead, its clear that his method is a very slow, methodical process in which he manages to practically guarantee that he will have a safe and effortless climb. Even in the interviews after this, it is clear that he is committed to his routine and managed to set-up this climb in such a way that it simply represented a comfortable, natural step in his evolution as a climber. He talks about it almost matter-of-factly. Truly awe-inspiring.
- jancsika 9y ago
  That's a great lesson to extrapolate, but only as long as you are applying it to a domain where failure != death. For example, in climbing where you have protection a much better lesson to extrapolate is that you will fail, and to be prepared for that at all times.
- zzalpha 9y ago
  That's really hard to do with media, etc. on your tail, even IF your life is literally at stake. Except they weren't. Honnold and his team very deliberately kept this thing quiet. Other than the crew and close friends, no one knew of the ascent until it was done and announced. Which is brilliant for exactly the reasons you mention.
  - prawn 9y ago
    If it was filmed/shot by NatGeo, isn't that media on his tail in some sense? It's still pressure he would have to resist. Bailing on an attempt would inconvenience a support team.
    - zzalpha 9y ago
jabl 9y ago
A couple of years ago it was in the news that a couple a blokes (Caldwell & Jorgeson) had freeclimbed El Capitan. So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) So this guy does it all alone, without any safety ropes, and in frickin 4 hours? Waaaat? Or was it a different route? The Caldwell & Jorgeson stories mention "Dawn Wall", is that something else than Honnold climbed now?
- deleted 9y ago
  [deleted]
- gk1 9y ago
  Freeclimbing is when you're connected to a safety rope. Free soloing is when you're not connected to anything at all.
- hanley 9y ago
  You are correct about the difference between freeclimbing and free soloing. Honnold had nothing to save him if he fell. Caldwell and Jorgeson had a rope and gear and a belayer to catch them if they fell, but they climbed their whole route without pulling on gear to help them climb. They climbed different routes. The Dawn Wall route had not previously been free climbed, it had only been aid climbed before (meaning climbers pulled on gear to help get through the most difficult sections). Honnold climbed a route called Freerider which is easier than the Dawn Wall but still very very very difficult.
  - baddox 9y ago
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Dawn Wall distinction was also that they climbed each pitch in order, and each pitch consecutively without a fall. They fell many times, and just had to start from the bottom of the pitch each time they did. I remember hearing slight controversy about them being able to decide where the pitches start and end, effectively choosing the respawn points conveniently. The other distinction was that they couldn't leave the wall before they finished all pitches.
- 9y ago
mooreds 9y ago
Yes, this was amazing and, as I shared with a friend, bone chilling. I don't know if this feat will ever be repeated.
altvali 9y ago
And why is this hacker news material?
- Lordarminius 9y ago
  > And why is this hacker news material? Because "a person who is a hacker , only a hacker, and nothing but a hacker, cannot be much of a hacker."
  - altvali 9y ago
    Yes, but not all hackers that aren't just hackers love climbing. And if I interpret that quote correctly, is there even a remote connection between the article and the kind of social news that are a good fit for this site? I though this site is about computer science and entrepreneurship. And for hackers who love climbing there are online climbing magazine sites, the same for gardening, formula 1 etc. What would happen if people would start posting here unrelated sports news, or pop music, or motivational quotes, in the name of the quote you mention? Or is it okay if it's only from time to time? What's the ratio?
    - dguaraglia 9y ago
      There's a huge difference between an article about the latest soccer match and an article like this: https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/lionel-messi-is-impossible/ https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/lionel-messi-is-impossi... I feel this article exposes a monumental achievement that it warrants being of interest. I mean, the proof is in the pudding: it's gotten more comments and discussion going than 95% of the "Version X of [Piece of Software] released" articles (and I consider those to be semi-useful.)
      - altvali 9y ago
        Very interesting point, I haven't thought about it that way, thank you.
    - Lordarminius 9y ago
patejam 9y ago
By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free... As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject. Caldwell is in an interesting position of having to balance supporting his friend, and trying to get over the fact that he very well could die doing these attempts. His article does a great job expressing this.
- jonah 9y ago
  One of the most striking quotes for me was: "Alex once told me that he had never fallen completely unexpectedly—meaning without at least some prior inclination that it could happen. When I told him that I had unexpectedly fallen at least ten times, he looked confused, like somehow that didn’t compute." It really illustrates what a professional Alex is and how in-tune he is with his skills and his craft.
  - psyc 9y ago
    I take the same thing from that quote. I have a good friend who has become one of the top competition paraglider pilots in the world. A lot of paragliders see him as doing terrifying, reckless things. He's told me that he considers himself a conservative pilot, and that he doesn't take risks. I agree with his self-assessment. I've known him a long time, and saw him ascend through a long, well-ordered series of incremental challenges.
    - jonah 9y ago
      Luck only lasts so long. You don't last long at sports like this if you aren't cautious and well-trained, that's for sure. I'll offer a counter anecdote to yours: I was talking to a guy this weekend who had been a serious hang-glider for over a decade when he was younger. Every time a friend would have a problem, he analyzed it and saw that because of the way he operated he wouldn't make the same mistake and could therefore rationalize his continued participation in the sport. Eventually though, he had a problem, he made a mistake, it scared him, but it took fully two years of continuing to fly before he finally worked through it and decided that he could never eliminate enough risk and quit flying. EDIT: I may have mischaracterized his response and removed "error-free" language and clarified with "eliminate enough risk".
raygelogic 9y ago
achievements in climbing can be kind of difficult for non-climbers to see the relevancy of, since the conventions of success seem a little arbitrary until you put some time into it. it was interesting to see the news cycle pick up tommy caldwell and kevin jorgeson's ascent of the dawn wall in yosemite in january 2015. it was certainly the biggest thing to happen in yosemite at the time, but no bigger in terms of its relevancy to climbing than a handful of other ascents that happened in the few years surrounding. it was a huge climb, and worthy of all the attention it got, but it was a little peculiar to see it get more airtime than any climb since maybe the original dawn wall ascent by warren harding in 1970. before alex's climb this week, it would be totally reasonable to make the claim that el cap will never get free-soloed. it's too sustained, the only feasible routes are too insecure. no one, expert or not, would ever get shouted down for making that claim, even among a cohort of dreamers who all want to live the impossible. among that cohort, free solo climbing isn't all that common; maybe one in a hundred climbers have ever climbed a difficult route taller than 100 feet without a rope. which makes him alien even within his sport. honnold just landed on the moon. what he did doesn't require any of the qwerks of convention that accompany most big-wall free climbs. everyone immediately understands the idea of scaling a cliff without a rope. everyone can even try it. el cap is a ten minute walk from the car. but in case the context of the climb is unclear, this is the kind of feat that only comes along every few generations. maybe I'm overstating it. from one perspective, this climb was another incremental step on honnold's journey. all of his previous ascents were mind-bending as well: moonlight buttress in zion, the regular northwest face of half dome, el sendero luminoso in el potrero chico, mexico. besides, technical rock climbing as we understand it today is only two or three generations old at most, and it's already produced this monster of an achievement. we may see more in our lifetime. I just wouldn't bet on it.
- irrational 9y ago
  Looking at the pictures El Capitan seems really tall and flat/sheer. Are there other cliffs in the world that are even taller or more sheer? I'm just wondering since I've seen comments from people saying something to the affect that they can't imagine what could top this. There are thousands of mountains around the world. Surely El Capitan isn't the Mt Everest of climbing.
tshadley 9y ago
Assuming Honnold has perfect ability, what are the risks of the route itself? I assume these routes are kept clean of loose rock, holds are inspected constantly and anything showing wear is communicated to the climber community.
- raygelogic 9y ago
  hey, actually no one maintains the routes in an official capacity. there are groups of climbers who voluntarily will upgrade fixed protection, or individuals who do the same, but certainly no governing body. it's not like a hiking trail, for example. it's pretty wild west, but generally people work together. as far as the objective risks, they include loose rock, broken holds, wet rock, birds spooking you, base jumpers spooking you, hornets, climbers dropping things by accident on you.
  - takk309 9y ago
    On the subject of maintaining a route like this, it is dangerous to remove loose rocks since there is a reasonable chance that there is someone below you. As a result, some loose rock is still present on these routes.
- kbutler 9y ago
  The National Geographic article described his some of his preparation, including climbing with ropes and a friend the week before, marking tricky holds with chalk, and rappelling down after an intervening rainstorm to make sure the holds and marks were clean.
ChuckMcM 9y ago
I find it interesting that I feel some of the same physical symptoms of fear when I look at clips of this guy 1000' off the ground, climbing the rock. Alex has a such a unique set of skills, which he has not only identified but honed to their best level of execution. It is hard for me to now simultaneously feel awe and disbelief.
sizzzzlerz 9y ago
It would be well to remember the old adage that there are two kinds of rock climbers: those that have fallen and those that will fall. As spectacular a feat as this was, even for someone as skilled as Honnold, he does this often enough, in the end, it will kill him.
- cynicalbastard 9y ago
  i used to think that, but now i'm not so sure. his free climbs are basically choreographed down to the inch, well ahead of time. that is a completely different thing than just going up because he's in a good mood and thinks he can do it.
  - sizzzzlerz 9y ago
    That is like saying you can flip 50 coins and have them come up heads every time because your flips were choreographed. Every single move he makes, every fingerhold, every foot placement, everything, must be perfect every time. The rock can't crumble unexpectedly,the sun can't momentarily blind him, hell, a butterfly in the Peruvian Andes can't flap its wings just so. There must be thousands of such points in his climbs, any one of which could kill him. He does it often enough, someday, they will.
    - carsonbaker 9y ago
      Your comment doesn't make sense. You can't choreograph the result of coin flip, but you can definitely rehearse a rock climbing sequence so that you always nail it. I can promise you there weren't thousands of moments on this climb where chossy rock, the sun, or chaos theory had anything to do with his success or failure.
gesman 9y ago
Sincerely, even thinking about it - feels scary! :) These are great pictures indeed: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
sn9 9y ago
Honnold's interview on Tim Ferriss's podcast is fascinating, for anyone who's interested.
cbtacy 9y ago
One of the best pieces written to date about this. http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-the-greatest-individual-sports-achievementever/ http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-th...
jondubois 9y ago
I would not do a climb like this even if the fate of the universe depended on it.
SeeDave 9y ago
Absolutely incredible.
deleted 9y ago
[deleted]
chris_overseas 9y ago
There's some National Geographic video footage of the climb here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HoUDDetAg0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HoUDDetAg0
hoodoof 9y ago
I know a neuropsychologist who believes that certain people are simply missing certain personality traits that other have, such as fear.
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skookumchuck 9y ago
I wouldn't even stand with my back to the precipice, as he does in a photo in the article.
brahmwg 9y ago
Explore El Capitan via Google street view https://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetview/treks/yosemite/#trek https://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetvi...
Radim 9y ago
There was a very good interview with Alex on Joe Rogan a few years back: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OusYaNWBy08 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OusYaNWBy08 In a typical Rogan style, it's a pretty relaxed and "real" chat, about girls, shitting your pants etc. Gives a little more insight into how top athletes like Alex think and approach their craft.
justswim 9y ago
So crazy, my palms are sweaty just thinking about it
imron 9y ago
> I hope others are inspired by Alex’s dedication to excellence and ability to live without fear What he did was impressive to be sure, but I wonder how many people inspired by it will attempt it themselves, only to fall to their deaths.
TheMagicHorsey 9y ago
Why is this celebrated? The man could die. Is it for our amusement? You take someone, you give him sponsors, you make him think risking his life to make a living this way is his own choice? Between fame and money, and a life working as a clerk in some office ... what choice could there be. I imagine it's like the choice for slaves in ancient Rome between being a house slave or becoming a gladiator. Fame and riches maybe ... death maybe. Why does society accept this behavior as normal? The welfare state will bear the cost if he lands hard and is paralyzed. If he dies, his loved ones will bear the cost. For all this, what do we get in concrete terms? The knowledge that a human has risked his life for something so meaningless? Some "sweet photos, dude". Madness really. How does everyone accept this as normal?
- nimchimpsky 9y ago
  > How does everyone accept this as normal? Eh, no one thinks this is normal. Hence all the publicity.
- warent 9y ago
  > The man could die. People die all the time doing much more mundane things > Is it for our amusement? Awe and inspiration are the first ones that came to my mind actually. Nobody manipulated him to consider doing this since 2009. Rock climbing is clearly his life. > You take someone, you give him sponsors, you make him think risking his life to make a living this way is his own choice? Between fame and money, and a life working as a clerk in some office ... what choice could there be. I work with genius doctors every day at Google. Truly great people choose their lives, weather it's quietly solving problems in an office, or scaling massive cliffs without gear. People who aren't in control of their own lives tend to think other people's lives are out of control as well. Just do what you love... Passing judgement at things we don't understand is such a waste of human potential
- jraby3 9y ago
  You could die doing anything. It's his life to live and he shouldn't be restricted in how he wishes to live or die. And it's celebrated because it's a form of bravery not all of us have but many of us respect.
holmberd 9y ago
It is a remarkable feat, but still in the realm, evidently, of what is humanly possible. Risk is always relative to the activity in which you spend your time.
holmberd 9y ago
It is a remarkable feat, but still in the realm, evidently, of what is humanly possible. Risk is always relative to the activity in which you spend your time.
Darthy 9y ago
How did he get back down? With Ropes? Then who brought them up? Or did he do a BASE jump? Catch a ride on a Helicopter?
- remus 9y ago
  You can walk off the back.
tmsldd 9y ago
"...he passed some climbers who had spent the night on a ledge. He did his best not to wake them ..."
geoka9 9y ago
How does one get back down from one of those climbs?
- wayn3 9y ago
  there is usually an easy way down the other side. or you have to abseil.
andyjohnson0 9y ago
On a message board I use there has been some interesting discussion [1] of whether elite climbers are being subject to pressure to take unreasonable risks due to the need to stay visible on social media, the commercial requirements of sponsors, and increasing interest in climbing by media orgs like Nat Geographic. I climb at a very modest level and don't feel qualified to judge in this case, and I certainly don't want to imply that Alex isn't making informed judgements about what he does, but I suspect these concerns may have some validity. But an awesome achievement, nevertheless. [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=665201&v=1 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=665201&v=1
- sleepychu 9y ago
  Interesting, I feel pretty confident that this was a personal goal for him though, since he first mentioned it in 2009.
  - andyjohnson0 9y ago
    I agree about it likely being a personal goal. But when Dawn Wall was freed a couple of years ago it got a lot of coverage in the mainstream media [1]. I wonder whether that would be the case if, instead, it was done a year or so from now. Or would the fact that Caldwell and Jorgeson used ropes and protection mean that it was no longer extreme enough to be considered remarkable. Even though it was the outcome of a long-term project, would they have to solo it to get the same level of mainstream attention now? [1] https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-wall-climbers-reach-top.html https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-w...
revanx_ 9y ago
I'm curious , if he is free climbing this large peaks, wouldn't it make sense to wear one of em lightweight parachutes, I'm sure for someone like Alex an extra 800g wouldn't be much of an issue would it?
gerbilly 9y ago
I see a lot of comments wondering why someone would take such risks, why it's irresponsible etc... It makes me wonder how responsible it is to sit in a chair and program all day, distorting your body into a twisted fat shadow of itself. I think our profession also comes with physical risks, and they sure aren't as rewarding as rock-climbing is.
takk309 9y ago
Here is a post-climb interview with Alex Honnold: http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-el-cap-free-solo-interview http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-el-cap-...
matt-attack 9y ago
Something I've always wondered about stuff like this: How can someone get so good at a craft that seemingly allows for zero mistakes? How do you practice and develop your skills when there's no margin for error? (Note: I'm assuming he'd have died if he ever made a mistake on this climb)
- zodiac 9y ago
  He practices roped
- adbachman 9y ago
  There are lots of small mistakes you can make while climbing that don't result in a fall. Poor route selection, bad hand placement, sketchy foot holds, etc. The sport is choices leading to choices. Small bad choices can be corrected, for the most part. For example, in the National Geographic[1] story it mentions that he attempted the climb in November but "but backed off after less than an hour of climbing". I assume he hit some threshold of small mistakes, bad conditions, and negative vibes that added up to, "not today." But he got down and lived to climb another day. The interview with Tommy Caldwell linked elsewhere in the comments mentions that he even fell once while practicing for this climb, "he had taken a fall on a practice lap of the Freerider and badly sprained his ankle." So probably less that he makes NO mistakes, and more that none of his mistakes have meant a deadly fall yet. [1]: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/most-dangerous-free-solo-climb-yosemite-national-park-el-capitan/ http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athlete...
matt-attack 9y ago
I find it annoying that clicking on the first image takes you to Instagram which displays the linked image smaller than the original article.
davidparks21 9y ago
Tommy Caldwell is the most qualified person in the world to write this story. A famous name in climbing himself, having written many of the books, and having climbed and prepared with Alex. https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free...
hbk1966 9y ago
It's Alex Honnold I'm not shocked.
gaia 9y ago
To me this quote is the best gauge of how incredible of a human feat this was. "One way to measure the greatness of any sporting achievement might be to consider the amount of time that passes before it’s achieved again. New world records are set in virtually every single Olympics. Every year brings new sports stars who stand on the shoulders of those who came before them. Look at someone like Usain Bolt, who has a dominant record in the 100-meter dash that might last for generations. The difference is, lots of people can run the 100 meters (albeit not quite as fast as Bolt). Honnold, meanwhile, is performing in an event that no one else is even qualified, much less willing, to participate." http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-the-greatest-individual-sports-achievementever/ http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-th...
wedesoft 9y ago
Just reminds me of Ueli Steck who climbed the Eiger within a few hours. Sadly he had a fatal accident in the Himalayas just recently.

928 points by merraksh 9y ago

Proper Planning and Practice Prevents Piss Poor Performance. and DEATH. In all seriousness, Alex's mental and physical conditioning to achieve this goal should be lauded, examined, written about, and taught.

AdamN 9y ago
They're already examining him for the ability to suppress fear (terror?) that would stop mere mortals
Lordarminius 9y ago
Lauded, examined, written about - I agree. Taught - Not so sure. Alex Honnold is an extreme outlier. We mortals may marvel but Im not sure his feat can be replicated so easily. I may be wrong. The guy is simply rad. I couldn't stop laughing at this: A lighter moment came later, Honnold said, when he passed some climbers who had spent the night on a ledge. He did his best not to wake them. "I woke up one guy and he sort of said, 'Oh, hey.' Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like 'What the f?'* Imagine yourself and your buddies 3/4 up the mountain and you see a guy coming down solo. It must take a minute to process the thought that he must have climbed up. wtf did I just see? Oh shit!!
- cderwin 9y ago
  Of course it should be taught -- that doesn't mean everyone ought to try ridiculously dangerous feats like Alex did. But the practices that allowed him to do so are worthwhile nonetheless.
  - derefr 9y ago
    Maybe we're operating under two different definitions of "taught" here. You're using "taught", I think, in the sense of giving someone an "impressive feats in the history of climbing" lecture. Which, sure, why not. The parent seems to be using "taught" in more the sense that a master teaches an apprentice: giving you the skills, yes, but also putting you in that same situation, or encouraging you to participate in such a climb. Like, picture a skydiving instructor, only they're a "free-solo this particular mountain" instructor. They're giving you instruction and practice with the implicit goal of doing this dangerous thing at the end, and with the implicit suggestion that the course will be all you need to be fully prepared to do the thing at the end, with little risk. Such "teaching" would be very unlikely to succeed; it would more-often-than-not just kill people.
    - irrational 9y ago
      I'm a swimmer. I'd like someone to teach me how to have huge hands and feet like Michael Phelps so I can swim like him.
- robotresearcher 9y ago
  Are you sure he was coming down?
  - Lordarminius 9y ago
    Had to read the relevant paragraph again. He was going up. Thanks.
- DamnYuppie 9y ago
  I was reading a another article about this ascent yesterday and they brought up a great point. Prior to Roger Bannister running the 1st sub 4 minute mile it was thought to be impossible and beyond a humans capabilities. Once that barrier fell many more quickly pushed through it. There is something to someone moving the bar of what is possible. As a species we are incredible in our abilities and resolve to continually push ourselves.
  - baddox 9y ago
    In the case of the 4 minute mile, I assume lots of runners were training and were reasonably close, and of course someone has to be the first. I don't know if it can be shown that the first 4 minute mile inspired a bunch of other people to follow suit so quickly.
tuna-piano 9y ago
Alex is famous because he does "free soloing" - which doesn't use any ropes or safety at all. More people do "free climbing" which uses ropes just in case of fall. Anyone have any idea how often free climbers end up falling and needing their ropes? Could many good free climbers do what Honnold did, but just like the added bits of safety?
- takk309 9y ago
  I climb but not at anywhere near the level of Honnold. That being said, free climbers fall quite a bit. Sport climbing, that is using bolts that are pre-placed as protection, often involves pushing to one's limit which of course means falling. Traditional climbing, using special gear and features in the rock for protection, does not involve as much falling since there is a higher risk of your gear popping out of its placement. Honnold has climbed this route with ropes many times and no doubt fell while doing it. He was well aware that he was capable of completing the climb without a fall.
  - tuna-piano 9y ago
    Any idea of how many people have free climbed this route? I'm really curious to know if Honnold is a one-of-a-kind climber or there are similar skill level climbers who just aren't willing to risk it without ropes? Either way he's amazing, but I'm curious to know how amazing.
    - privong 9y ago
      > Any idea of how many people have free climbed this route? I'm really curious to know if Honnold is a one-of-a-kind climber or there are similar skill level climbers who just aren't willing to risk it without ropes? I don't know how many people have freed that particular route (called "Freerider"), but SuperTopo says it's one of the easier routes on El Cap to free climb[0] (though it's still not any "easy" route by any stretch). But I think it's safe to say that Honnold is a one of a kind climber because free-soloing something takes a significantly higher level of self-control and self-confidence than freeing the same route does. So he's one of a kind precisely because he's willing to risk it without ropes. [0] http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-Freerider http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Ca...
KboPAacDA3 9y ago
I google him about once a year to see if he is still alive, and I'm surprised each time.
- praneshp 9y ago
  Ha ha, I always find it difficult to choose between your joke, and the fact that someone sells this: https://www.rei.com/product/869679/maxim-alex-honnold-signature-bi-pattern-glider-99mm-x-70m-dry-rope https://www.rei.com/product/869679/maxim-alex-honnold-signat...
- deleted 9y ago
  [deleted]
- Lordarminius 9y ago
  > I google him about once a year to see if he is still alive, and I'm surprised each time. That's wickedly funny :) but alas I'm guilty of that too. I think he should just stop now
moron4hire 9y ago
(You missed "Prior" on the front, there)
antisthenes 9y ago
The only thing that should be taught in tandem is the definition of survivorship bias.

24gttghh 9y ago

It's things like this that make me ask myself, "Why don't I climb rocks more?" Then I remember I have a fear of falling to my death. It's a vicious cycle.

bloudermilk 9y ago
I got started by bouldering at the gym, which is an incredibly fun physical and mental challenge. It's all low-height (sub 15') climbing without any ropes over soft pads so you can fall without hurting yourself. After a couple of years I've built up the confidence to start rope climbing, but I know plenty of climbers who only boulder.
- 24gttghh 9y ago
  I do know some folks who go bouldering, which is what I think I would do since it's relatively $ free :) I also hike a lot, which inevitably involves some short scrambles straight up. This may be the summer to expand. Thanks for the motivation!
legohead 9y ago
Fear of falling is natural, and good. If yours is a bonafide phobia, that will be a challenge of course, but some people climb in order to fight their phobia. There's an interesting progression with regard to fear in rock climbing. Bouldering is fairly limited, fear-wise (if you don't count highballs). It's a great way for anyone to get into climbing, and just have fun. Top-roping a wall is pretty benign as well, since if you fall it's usually just a couple feet. But the height can will still cause beginners to pause, but you should get over it fairly quickly. You will be too focused on the next move to think about the height, most of the time. Then you progress to lead climbing, where you pull the rope up with you (attached to your harness), and clip into quickdraws. Lead falls are much farther than top rope, in general, and you have the added physical challenge of finding a good position to do the clipping. This added physical challenge leads to mental drain as you have to gauge "can I make it to the next quickdraw and have enough energy to find a position to clip without falling?" The more you move up, the farther you're going to fall.. Then you have traditional (trad) climbing, where you place protection into the rock, in the form of cams and nuts and what not, and you clip into those. The physical challenge with finding a position to put protection is similar to lead, but now you have to hold the position longer, and after it's placed, you have the added mental strain of "will that piece of gear actually hold if I fall on it?" And then, you have Honnold here, with free soloing. You fall you die (or get super messed up). When I went from top roping to lead, it was like starting over again. The level I was climbing at plummeted (on lead), due to the mental game. Nowadays when I top rope, it's almost a joke (fear-wise). I can fly up a route on top rope, and then struggle up the same route on lead. -- One of the most interesting things about the sport, to me, is the whole mental challenge, and any climber will tell you the same. You are not just challenging yourself physically, but mentally. We all have to fight the fear, our weakness of mind.

vkou 9y ago

As a climber, I wish this were less widely publicized. Free soloing is extremely dangerous, and dozens of climbers - including experienced ones die doing it every year.

hfourm 9y ago
Of course it is, but that is also why it IS widely publicized. It is an incredible feat. I get the perspective of not wanting to encourage others to do X or Y, but everyone ultimately is responsible for their own safety with these types of things.
takk309 9y ago
I understand your position but I disagree. Honnold is well aware of the risks and has prepared as necessary to accomplish this feat. The media needs to better report on that aspect.
- maxxxxx 9y ago
  There will be people trying to imitate this who don't know what they are getting into. In my view he could have shown the same level of accomplishment in a safer way and set an example.
  - function_seven 9y ago
    And when they do make the attempt, and fail, and die, they will be fine examples I'm sure. Mr. Honnold is obviously not interested in serving as a safety example, not sure why many here insist he fulfill that role.
    - maxxxxx 9y ago
      I have no problem with him but I think the media should not make him into a hero.
      - kinkrtyavimoodh 9y ago

twoodfin 9y ago

There's a great documentary on the climbing culture of Yosemite and its evolution (including the equilibrium-punctuating arrival of Alex Honnold) available at least on Netflix: Valley Uprising. Worth a watch.

wink 9y ago
"Climbing the Nose" is also pretty cool, but about a different route as far as I can tell.
- weaksauce 9y ago
  It is a different route and significantly harder and will likely never be free soloed for a long time if ever. The crux is so insecure that it's suicide.
  - wink 9y ago
    Thanks, I figured as much but in the articles on Honnold's ascent I didn't find any mention of a specific route.
    - skim- 9y ago
      It was Freerider on El Capitan, https://www.mountainproject.com/v/freerider/106261545 https://www.mountainproject.com/v/freerider/106261545
    - praneshp 9y ago
      Freerider. The other replier has the link for you. Mountain Project is a great website to use if you hear someone say they climbed up a route, and are curious about the route. You might want to checkout related articles on r/climbing, it's a reasonable community.
- deleted 9y ago
  [deleted]
Lordarminius 9y ago

bogomipz 9y ago

If you are interested in this or the history of climbing in Yosemite and and El Capitan I highly recommend the documentary "Valley Uprising." Even if you aren't necessarily interested in climbing its a beautiful documentary. It's available on Netflix. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/ http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3784160/

Fricken 9y ago
I became interested in climbing in the early 90s, like the day before the climbing gym revolution swept the world, and there were two compendiums of hair raising tales I read that indoctrinated me into the spirit of climbing, and the experience of being in absolutely atrocious situations at the edge of the unknown: Mirrors in the Cliffs, and The Games Climbers Play. Recommended reading for anyone who might be into such a thing.
mikepurvis 9y ago
I'll just second this as someone not previously interested in climbing who was really drawn into Valley Uprising. From a purely technical point of view, it does some fascinating stuff bringing decades-old photographs and video clips to life on the rock face. You can get a taste of it from a number of clips that are in the trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw
tenkabuto 9y ago
It is very good. I watched it by chance because it happened to be on at a friend's house, and I got hooked almost immediately. The blend of personalities, history, and beautiful shots of Yosemite is wonderful.
projectileboy 9y ago
If you enjoy this, then I also highly recommend the book "The Vertical World of Yosemite". It's shame it's out of print, practically every story in there is a gem. https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-World-Yosemite-Collection-Photographs/dp/0911824871 https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-World-Yosemite-Collection-Ph...
fauria 9y ago

irln 9y ago

First clip of Honnold's climb: https://goo.gl/LZ1jcq https://goo.gl/LZ1jcq

prodikl 9y ago
palms literally raining phew

lflux 9y ago

Some great pictures from the climb: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

avip 9y ago
Fantastic. I can't figure out where are these taken from?
- lflux 9y ago
  Says in the post, "Far end of El Cap meadow"
  - avip 9y ago
    Right, thanks.
gk1 9y ago
Amazing photos that highlight how insane this was. My palms are very sweaty.
nthcolumn 9y ago
Can you believe the first comment 'Now let's see it done with Total Commitment' dude? My god there are some asshats in this world.
- throwaway91111 9y ago
  It's not even sensical—like there was anything one could have done to help him in the event of a fall.
  - dagw 9y ago
    If he found himself unable to continue due to injury or fatigue they'd be able to help him down. But yea, extremely dumb comment.

whistlerbrk 9y ago

More more detail I'd read the National Geographic article linked in this NPR article, it has a very good history/background worth reading.

skookum 9y ago

Obligatory related entertainment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MubrSXdjjQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MubrSXdjjQ

skim- 9y ago

Check these awesome photos of the feat: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

DarkTree 9y ago

> "I woke up one guy and he sort of said, 'Oh, hey.' Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like 'What the f*?' " What an awesome story for a climber: "I was woken up on the wall by the first guy to free solo El Cap"

NwtnsMthd 9y ago
Oh, I'm sure they recognized Honnold. There probably aren't many serious climbers who don't know who he is.
- atom-morgan 9y ago
  I've never climbed anything other than a rock wall in a gym. If I know Honnold, they know Honnold.
goshx 9y ago
"Dressed in a chicken suit" Check #6 here: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...
- rconti 9y ago
  This needs to be higher up. A great read. I was going to post it up top in reply to the person who posted the NatGeo link saying it was the best description of it, until I found it mentioned all the way down here :)

shriphani 9y ago

About Alex Honnold, there's just one thing that comes to mind - Unbridled Ambition. That same spirit that Caesar's men harnessed to build a bridge across the Rhine in 10 days, that led NASA to get to the moon in a decade, that led to the empire state building being erected in slightly over a year.

jron 9y ago

Interview: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/interview-rope-free-solo-climb-yosemite-el-capitan/ http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athlete... Pictures: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

ChicagoBoy11 9y ago

The thing that I've most loved while following Alex's exploits over the past few year is how he talks about his mental preparation. He always seems very well prepared for whatever route that he is climbing. To me, the biggest evidence of that is the fact that he quit doing this exact climb a few weeks ago because he felt conditions weren't right. That's really hard to do with media, etc. on your tail, even IF your life is literally at stake. It would be one thing if he were just incredibly bold and daring and were getting away with it; instead, its clear that his method is a very slow, methodical process in which he manages to practically guarantee that he will have a safe and effortless climb. Even in the interviews after this, it is clear that he is committed to his routine and managed to set-up this climb in such a way that it simply represented a comfortable, natural step in his evolution as a climber. He talks about it almost matter-of-factly. Truly awe-inspiring.

jancsika 9y ago
That's a great lesson to extrapolate, but only as long as you are applying it to a domain where failure != death. For example, in climbing where you have protection a much better lesson to extrapolate is that you will fail, and to be prepared for that at all times.
zzalpha 9y ago
That's really hard to do with media, etc. on your tail, even IF your life is literally at stake. Except they weren't. Honnold and his team very deliberately kept this thing quiet. Other than the crew and close friends, no one knew of the ascent until it was done and announced. Which is brilliant for exactly the reasons you mention.
- prawn 9y ago
  If it was filmed/shot by NatGeo, isn't that media on his tail in some sense? It's still pressure he would have to resist. Bailing on an attempt would inconvenience a support team.
  - zzalpha 9y ago

jabl 9y ago

A couple of years ago it was in the news that a couple a blokes (Caldwell & Jorgeson) had freeclimbed El Capitan. So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) So this guy does it all alone, without any safety ropes, and in frickin 4 hours? Waaaat? Or was it a different route? The Caldwell & Jorgeson stories mention "Dawn Wall", is that something else than Honnold climbed now?

deleted 9y ago
[deleted]
gk1 9y ago
Freeclimbing is when you're connected to a safety rope. Free soloing is when you're not connected to anything at all.
hanley 9y ago
You are correct about the difference between freeclimbing and free soloing. Honnold had nothing to save him if he fell. Caldwell and Jorgeson had a rope and gear and a belayer to catch them if they fell, but they climbed their whole route without pulling on gear to help them climb. They climbed different routes. The Dawn Wall route had not previously been free climbed, it had only been aid climbed before (meaning climbers pulled on gear to help get through the most difficult sections). Honnold climbed a route called Freerider which is easier than the Dawn Wall but still very very very difficult.
- baddox 9y ago
  Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Dawn Wall distinction was also that they climbed each pitch in order, and each pitch consecutively without a fall. They fell many times, and just had to start from the bottom of the pitch each time they did. I remember hearing slight controversy about them being able to decide where the pitches start and end, effectively choosing the respawn points conveniently. The other distinction was that they couldn't leave the wall before they finished all pitches.
9y ago

mooreds 9y ago

Yes, this was amazing and, as I shared with a friend, bone chilling. I don't know if this feat will ever be repeated.

altvali 9y ago

And why is this hacker news material?

Lordarminius 9y ago
> And why is this hacker news material? Because "a person who is a hacker , only a hacker, and nothing but a hacker, cannot be much of a hacker."
- altvali 9y ago
  Yes, but not all hackers that aren't just hackers love climbing. And if I interpret that quote correctly, is there even a remote connection between the article and the kind of social news that are a good fit for this site? I though this site is about computer science and entrepreneurship. And for hackers who love climbing there are online climbing magazine sites, the same for gardening, formula 1 etc. What would happen if people would start posting here unrelated sports news, or pop music, or motivational quotes, in the name of the quote you mention? Or is it okay if it's only from time to time? What's the ratio?
  - dguaraglia 9y ago
    There's a huge difference between an article about the latest soccer match and an article like this: https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/lionel-messi-is-impossible/ https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/lionel-messi-is-impossi... I feel this article exposes a monumental achievement that it warrants being of interest. I mean, the proof is in the pudding: it's gotten more comments and discussion going than 95% of the "Version X of [Piece of Software] released" articles (and I consider those to be semi-useful.)
    - altvali 9y ago
      Very interesting point, I haven't thought about it that way, thank you.
  - Lordarminius 9y ago

patejam 9y ago

By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free... As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject. Caldwell is in an interesting position of having to balance supporting his friend, and trying to get over the fact that he very well could die doing these attempts. His article does a great job expressing this.

jonah 9y ago
One of the most striking quotes for me was: "Alex once told me that he had never fallen completely unexpectedly—meaning without at least some prior inclination that it could happen. When I told him that I had unexpectedly fallen at least ten times, he looked confused, like somehow that didn’t compute." It really illustrates what a professional Alex is and how in-tune he is with his skills and his craft.
- psyc 9y ago
  I take the same thing from that quote. I have a good friend who has become one of the top competition paraglider pilots in the world. A lot of paragliders see him as doing terrifying, reckless things. He's told me that he considers himself a conservative pilot, and that he doesn't take risks. I agree with his self-assessment. I've known him a long time, and saw him ascend through a long, well-ordered series of incremental challenges.
  - jonah 9y ago
    Luck only lasts so long. You don't last long at sports like this if you aren't cautious and well-trained, that's for sure. I'll offer a counter anecdote to yours: I was talking to a guy this weekend who had been a serious hang-glider for over a decade when he was younger. Every time a friend would have a problem, he analyzed it and saw that because of the way he operated he wouldn't make the same mistake and could therefore rationalize his continued participation in the sport. Eventually though, he had a problem, he made a mistake, it scared him, but it took fully two years of continuing to fly before he finally worked through it and decided that he could never eliminate enough risk and quit flying. EDIT: I may have mischaracterized his response and removed "error-free" language and clarified with "eliminate enough risk".

raygelogic 9y ago

achievements in climbing can be kind of difficult for non-climbers to see the relevancy of, since the conventions of success seem a little arbitrary until you put some time into it. it was interesting to see the news cycle pick up tommy caldwell and kevin jorgeson's ascent of the dawn wall in yosemite in january 2015. it was certainly the biggest thing to happen in yosemite at the time, but no bigger in terms of its relevancy to climbing than a handful of other ascents that happened in the few years surrounding. it was a huge climb, and worthy of all the attention it got, but it was a little peculiar to see it get more airtime than any climb since maybe the original dawn wall ascent by warren harding in 1970. before alex's climb this week, it would be totally reasonable to make the claim that el cap will never get free-soloed. it's too sustained, the only feasible routes are too insecure. no one, expert or not, would ever get shouted down for making that claim, even among a cohort of dreamers who all want to live the impossible. among that cohort, free solo climbing isn't all that common; maybe one in a hundred climbers have ever climbed a difficult route taller than 100 feet without a rope. which makes him alien even within his sport. honnold just landed on the moon. what he did doesn't require any of the qwerks of convention that accompany most big-wall free climbs. everyone immediately understands the idea of scaling a cliff without a rope. everyone can even try it. el cap is a ten minute walk from the car. but in case the context of the climb is unclear, this is the kind of feat that only comes along every few generations. maybe I'm overstating it. from one perspective, this climb was another incremental step on honnold's journey. all of his previous ascents were mind-bending as well: moonlight buttress in zion, the regular northwest face of half dome, el sendero luminoso in el potrero chico, mexico. besides, technical rock climbing as we understand it today is only two or three generations old at most, and it's already produced this monster of an achievement. we may see more in our lifetime. I just wouldn't bet on it.

irrational 9y ago
Looking at the pictures El Capitan seems really tall and flat/sheer. Are there other cliffs in the world that are even taller or more sheer? I'm just wondering since I've seen comments from people saying something to the affect that they can't imagine what could top this. There are thousands of mountains around the world. Surely El Capitan isn't the Mt Everest of climbing.

tshadley 9y ago

Assuming Honnold has perfect ability, what are the risks of the route itself? I assume these routes are kept clean of loose rock, holds are inspected constantly and anything showing wear is communicated to the climber community.

raygelogic 9y ago
hey, actually no one maintains the routes in an official capacity. there are groups of climbers who voluntarily will upgrade fixed protection, or individuals who do the same, but certainly no governing body. it's not like a hiking trail, for example. it's pretty wild west, but generally people work together. as far as the objective risks, they include loose rock, broken holds, wet rock, birds spooking you, base jumpers spooking you, hornets, climbers dropping things by accident on you.
- takk309 9y ago
  On the subject of maintaining a route like this, it is dangerous to remove loose rocks since there is a reasonable chance that there is someone below you. As a result, some loose rock is still present on these routes.
kbutler 9y ago
The National Geographic article described his some of his preparation, including climbing with ropes and a friend the week before, marking tricky holds with chalk, and rappelling down after an intervening rainstorm to make sure the holds and marks were clean.

ChuckMcM 9y ago

I find it interesting that I feel some of the same physical symptoms of fear when I look at clips of this guy 1000' off the ground, climbing the rock. Alex has a such a unique set of skills, which he has not only identified but honed to their best level of execution. It is hard for me to now simultaneously feel awe and disbelief.

sizzzzlerz 9y ago

It would be well to remember the old adage that there are two kinds of rock climbers: those that have fallen and those that will fall. As spectacular a feat as this was, even for someone as skilled as Honnold, he does this often enough, in the end, it will kill him.

cynicalbastard 9y ago
i used to think that, but now i'm not so sure. his free climbs are basically choreographed down to the inch, well ahead of time. that is a completely different thing than just going up because he's in a good mood and thinks he can do it.
- sizzzzlerz 9y ago
  That is like saying you can flip 50 coins and have them come up heads every time because your flips were choreographed. Every single move he makes, every fingerhold, every foot placement, everything, must be perfect every time. The rock can't crumble unexpectedly,the sun can't momentarily blind him, hell, a butterfly in the Peruvian Andes can't flap its wings just so. There must be thousands of such points in his climbs, any one of which could kill him. He does it often enough, someday, they will.
  - carsonbaker 9y ago
    Your comment doesn't make sense. You can't choreograph the result of coin flip, but you can definitely rehearse a rock climbing sequence so that you always nail it. I can promise you there weren't thousands of moments on this climb where chossy rock, the sun, or chaos theory had anything to do with his success or failure.

gesman 9y ago

Sincerely, even thinking about it - feels scary! :) These are great pictures indeed: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edition-honnold-free-solo-elcap http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

sn9 9y ago

Honnold's interview on Tim Ferriss's podcast is fascinating, for anyone who's interested.

cbtacy 9y ago

One of the best pieces written to date about this. http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-the-greatest-individual-sports-achievementever/ http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-th...

jondubois 9y ago

I would not do a climb like this even if the fate of the universe depended on it.

SeeDave 9y ago

Absolutely incredible.

deleted 9y ago

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chris_overseas 9y ago

There's some National Geographic video footage of the climb here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HoUDDetAg0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HoUDDetAg0

hoodoof 9y ago

I know a neuropsychologist who believes that certain people are simply missing certain personality traits that other have, such as fear.

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skookumchuck 9y ago

I wouldn't even stand with my back to the precipice, as he does in a photo in the article.

brahmwg 9y ago

Explore El Capitan via Google street view https://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetview/treks/yosemite/#trek https://www.google.com/maps/about/behind-the-scenes/streetvi...

Radim 9y ago

There was a very good interview with Alex on Joe Rogan a few years back: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OusYaNWBy08 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OusYaNWBy08 In a typical Rogan style, it's a pretty relaxed and "real" chat, about girls, shitting your pants etc. Gives a little more insight into how top athletes like Alex think and approach their craft.

justswim 9y ago

So crazy, my palms are sweaty just thinking about it

imron 9y ago

> I hope others are inspired by Alex’s dedication to excellence and ability to live without fear What he did was impressive to be sure, but I wonder how many people inspired by it will attempt it themselves, only to fall to their deaths.

TheMagicHorsey 9y ago

Why is this celebrated? The man could die. Is it for our amusement? You take someone, you give him sponsors, you make him think risking his life to make a living this way is his own choice? Between fame and money, and a life working as a clerk in some office ... what choice could there be. I imagine it's like the choice for slaves in ancient Rome between being a house slave or becoming a gladiator. Fame and riches maybe ... death maybe. Why does society accept this behavior as normal? The welfare state will bear the cost if he lands hard and is paralyzed. If he dies, his loved ones will bear the cost. For all this, what do we get in concrete terms? The knowledge that a human has risked his life for something so meaningless? Some "sweet photos, dude". Madness really. How does everyone accept this as normal?

nimchimpsky 9y ago
> How does everyone accept this as normal? Eh, no one thinks this is normal. Hence all the publicity.
warent 9y ago
> The man could die. People die all the time doing much more mundane things > Is it for our amusement? Awe and inspiration are the first ones that came to my mind actually. Nobody manipulated him to consider doing this since 2009. Rock climbing is clearly his life. > You take someone, you give him sponsors, you make him think risking his life to make a living this way is his own choice? Between fame and money, and a life working as a clerk in some office ... what choice could there be. I work with genius doctors every day at Google. Truly great people choose their lives, weather it's quietly solving problems in an office, or scaling massive cliffs without gear. People who aren't in control of their own lives tend to think other people's lives are out of control as well. Just do what you love... Passing judgement at things we don't understand is such a waste of human potential
jraby3 9y ago
You could die doing anything. It's his life to live and he shouldn't be restricted in how he wishes to live or die. And it's celebrated because it's a form of bravery not all of us have but many of us respect.

holmberd 9y ago

It is a remarkable feat, but still in the realm, evidently, of what is humanly possible. Risk is always relative to the activity in which you spend your time.

holmberd 9y ago

It is a remarkable feat, but still in the realm, evidently, of what is humanly possible. Risk is always relative to the activity in which you spend your time.

Darthy 9y ago

How did he get back down? With Ropes? Then who brought them up? Or did he do a BASE jump? Catch a ride on a Helicopter?

remus 9y ago
You can walk off the back.

tmsldd 9y ago

"...he passed some climbers who had spent the night on a ledge. He did his best not to wake them ..."

geoka9 9y ago

How does one get back down from one of those climbs?

wayn3 9y ago
there is usually an easy way down the other side. or you have to abseil.

andyjohnson0 9y ago

On a message board I use there has been some interesting discussion [1] of whether elite climbers are being subject to pressure to take unreasonable risks due to the need to stay visible on social media, the commercial requirements of sponsors, and increasing interest in climbing by media orgs like Nat Geographic. I climb at a very modest level and don't feel qualified to judge in this case, and I certainly don't want to imply that Alex isn't making informed judgements about what he does, but I suspect these concerns may have some validity. But an awesome achievement, nevertheless. [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=665201&v=1 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=665201&v=1

sleepychu 9y ago
Interesting, I feel pretty confident that this was a personal goal for him though, since he first mentioned it in 2009.
- andyjohnson0 9y ago
  I agree about it likely being a personal goal. But when Dawn Wall was freed a couple of years ago it got a lot of coverage in the mainstream media [1]. I wonder whether that would be the case if, instead, it was done a year or so from now. Or would the fact that Caldwell and Jorgeson used ropes and protection mean that it was no longer extreme enough to be considered remarkable. Even though it was the outcome of a long-term project, would they have to solo it to get the same level of mainstream attention now? [1] https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-wall-climbers-reach-top.html https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/15/sports/el-capitans-dawn-w...

revanx_ 9y ago

I'm curious , if he is free climbing this large peaks, wouldn't it make sense to wear one of em lightweight parachutes, I'm sure for someone like Alex an extra 800g wouldn't be much of an issue would it?

gerbilly 9y ago

I see a lot of comments wondering why someone would take such risks, why it's irresponsible etc... It makes me wonder how responsible it is to sit in a chair and program all day, distorting your body into a twisted fat shadow of itself. I think our profession also comes with physical risks, and they sure aren't as rewarding as rock-climbing is.

takk309 9y ago

Here is a post-climb interview with Alex Honnold: http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-el-cap-free-solo-interview http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-honnold-el-cap-...

matt-attack 9y ago

Something I've always wondered about stuff like this: How can someone get so good at a craft that seemingly allows for zero mistakes? How do you practice and develop your skills when there's no margin for error? (Note: I'm assuming he'd have died if he ever made a mistake on this climb)

zodiac 9y ago
He practices roped
adbachman 9y ago
There are lots of small mistakes you can make while climbing that don't result in a fall. Poor route selection, bad hand placement, sketchy foot holds, etc. The sport is choices leading to choices. Small bad choices can be corrected, for the most part. For example, in the National Geographic[1] story it mentions that he attempted the climb in November but "but backed off after less than an hour of climbing". I assume he hit some threshold of small mistakes, bad conditions, and negative vibes that added up to, "not today." But he got down and lived to climb another day. The interview with Tommy Caldwell linked elsewhere in the comments mentions that he even fell once while practicing for this climb, "he had taken a fall on a practice lap of the Freerider and badly sprained his ankle." So probably less that he makes NO mistakes, and more that none of his mistakes have meant a deadly fall yet. [1]: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/most-dangerous-free-solo-climb-yosemite-national-park-el-capitan/ http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athlete...

matt-attack 9y ago

I find it annoying that clicking on the first image takes you to Instagram which displays the linked image smaller than the original article.

davidparks21 9y ago

Tommy Caldwell is the most qualified person in the world to write this story. A famous name in climbing himself, having written many of the books, and having climbed and prepared with Alex. https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free...

hbk1966 9y ago

It's Alex Honnold I'm not shocked.

gaia 9y ago

To me this quote is the best gauge of how incredible of a human feat this was. "One way to measure the greatness of any sporting achievement might be to consider the amount of time that passes before it’s achieved again. New world records are set in virtually every single Olympics. Every year brings new sports stars who stand on the shoulders of those who came before them. Look at someone like Usain Bolt, who has a dominant record in the 100-meter dash that might last for generations. The difference is, lots of people can run the 100 meters (albeit not quite as fast as Bolt). Honnold, meanwhile, is performing in an event that no one else is even qualified, much less willing, to participate." http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-the-greatest-individual-sports-achievementever/ http://eveningsends.com/is-alex-honnolds-el-cap-free-solo-th...

wedesoft 9y ago

Just reminds me of Ueli Steck who climbed the Eiger within a few hours. Sadly he had a fatal accident in the Himalayas just recently.