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Turning a dumb AC unit smart (without losing my security deposit)
- deleted 2mo ago[deleted]
- effnorwood 2mo agoHey Siri, can I afford a home loan?
- clickety_clack 2mo agoYou’ll need to unlock your iPhone for that.
- effnorwood 2mo agoAlways a latch. That's key.
- scottlamb 2mo ago> The rest of this blog post is a walkthrough of a software engineer’s approach to home automation and building custom hardware, and let me tell you: both the final product, and the journey to get there, are hella jank. IMHO it's not that bad? With the disclaimer that I'm also a software engineer who dabbles very very lightly with electronics and has no mechanical engineering expertise. But the overall approach of doing this by stepper motor seems quite defensible given the security deposit constraint. The only part that seems really janky to me is that it's not physically held in place that well as noted in this paragraph: > Ultimately, the biggest issue is that binder clips and cardboard aren’t quite as robust of a mounting mechanism as I’d hoped they’d be… and over time, the stepper motor tends to “sag” a bit, resulting in a bit too much friction between the motor, the coupler, and the underlying knob, causing the mechanism to stall out until someone manually goes and reseats it… Involving MQTT and HA can sometimes get frustrating too; having your AC not working properly if there's a problem on a Linux machine can suck. If this becomes a problem in practice, iirc ESPHome also has a thermostat component, and temperature sensors are really cheap and easy to wire in, so you could do it all on the microcontroller pretty easily in a low-code way. But if this part is working, no need to mess with it.
- danudey 2mo agoIt does feel hella jank, but it's pretty obvious from the tone of the text that the author is fully aware of that. He went through every available option in order from reasonable to jank and this is the first one that worked. There's nothing wrong with jank as long as it's not going to burn your house down the way some of his other rejected ideas would have.
- tentacleuno 2mo agoI'm curious: what other ideas did the author have, and why were they rejected? I can't find anything on their website.
- kube-system 2mo agoThere are two other rejected ideas discussed in the section: What are my options here? https://prilik.com/blog/post/automating-ac-nyc/#-what-are-my-options-here https://prilik.com/blog/post/automating-ac-nyc/#-what-are-my...
- barnas2 2mo agoThat's what I did. Just an esp32 relay board with a tiny screen and a knob. Then I put more esp32 sensors in each room to get individual temps, with HA logic to select which room the thermostat pays attention to. If HA dies for some reason it falls back to a local control and I'm back to the same situation as before, a thermostat that only pays attention to the temperature in the hallway it's installed in. All the boards were flashed with ESPHome.
- scottlamb 2mo agoNice. I don't have any ESPHome thermostats right now, but I have an ESPHome fridge/freezer temperature monitor. I adopted the same idea: it should integrate with HA when HA is available, but it should be useful even when HA is down. So in addition to exporting the raw temperature to HA, the alert threshold is kept on the device rather than in HA so it can locally compute the alert state. This triggers a directly wired piezo buzzer, in addition to an HA phone notification. You do have to set the "api: reboot_timeout: 0" if you don't want it to reboot itself every 15 minutes while HA is down. I persisted the alert threshold to flash though so even if it does reboot it comes right back up and works fine.
- Reason077 2mo agoInstead of attaching the motor bracket with a binder clip, consider sticking it down with some sort of removable adhesive? 3M command strips should be very strong/secure, while also allowing for adjustment and will detach without residue when the time comes.
- itslennysfault 2mo agoI'd cut a block of wood to fit snuggly to the left of the knob, wedge it in place and screw the stepper in to that. .....or just screw into the AC unit somewhere discrete and hope no one notices.
- throwway120385 2mo agoJust putty over it and get a slightly matching high-gloss or semi-gloss enamel and nobody will notice it. I've put tons of holes in things in rentals over the years and basically nobody will care as long as you restore it to like condition when you leave.
- prmoustache 2mo agoHave you ever seen a landlord check that kind of things really? Unless you have made a mess with wires getting out looking like a fire hazard in waiting I don't know anyone who would stop at 2 tiny screw holes. Heck the landowner may not even remember the unit was not made that way in the first place.
- itslennysfault 2mo agoAgreed. I've done some crazy stuff in apartments. Last place I rented I installed a projector on the ceiling and ran wires through the ceiling and walls because it'd be ugly otherwise. Also converted a ceiling light into an outlet to power it. Patched the drywall before I moved out and the landlord never needed to know.
- singron 2mo agoI think you could use the two shafts to align and attach the mounting bracket by drilling two holes the proper distance apart. Drilling holes is pretty easy compared to cutting straight lines and I think most people are more likely to have a drill. If you use a piece of wood, the additional thickness can help the shafts to keep the wood perpendicular. You might not need any additional fastener, and the lack of fastener could help it return to a neutral position after operation rather than migrate. Also, slowing down the stepper motor can reduce unnecessary forces and the likelihood of malfunction.
- ethnt 2mo agoI was in a similar situation with my apartment PTAC unit, but mine has thermostat terminals — I would not be surprised if this one does too. I was able to hook up an Ecobee thermostat, with the downside being that it's way more expensive than OP's solution.
- newhotelowner 2mo ago30 years old PTAC has wired thermostat terminals. But I dolike OPs solution.
- post_break 2mo agoAssuming running a dual hose inverter portable AC isn't against the lease agreement it would probably pay for itself based on the power usage. Pretty neat hack regardless.
- arikrak 2mo agoPortable ACs are generally less efficient than regular window ACs and PTAC units since the compressor is inside the room.
- post_break 2mo agoYes, except for dual hose inverter ones.
- chpatrick 2mo agoThere are also portable split systems like Midea Portasplit.
- BHSPitMonkey 2mo agoWhy? A dual-hose portable is more efficient than a single-hose, but a PTAC should (in theory) be more efficient (and possibly quieter) on account of having the heat-emitting side of the cooling loop outside of the living space, which is closer to the ideal split system - though I suppose that advantage could be undermined by the unit's age and condition.
- ssl-3 2mo agoSingle-hose is always awful. It can't be other-than-awful. All of the air that gets pushed out of that singular exhaust hose gets replaced by hot (and often very humid) outside air -- the same stuff we're burning electricity to fight a war against. (It is my considered opinion that single-hose portable aircons should not exist, and I'd remove them from the Earth if I had the ability.) Dual-hose units can work OK. They have some advantages, too, like being portable (they can be placed in the space that most-needs cooling instead of the space where they're mounted hard into a wall), or being quiet[er]. I've never experienced a PTAC in an NYC apartment, but some of the ones I've used in hotel rooms have been monstrously-noisy. I would never want to live with one of the noisy ones.
- chem83 2mo agoIt's insane to me that some new construction buildings still use PTACs. Having used too many of those, this was a deal-breaker last time I was in the market for an apartment. Such a New York thing, just like how you cannot have a balcony on the 2nd floor, or how you won't find those sink garbage disposal grinders in any kitchen. But cross the Hudson toward NJ, and my understanding is that they're common. It's a combination of hyper-local regulations and economic incentives that date from god-knows-when and make American cities very unique in their quirks.
- shadytrees 2mo agoPTACs suck. Well-maintained, newer models suck less, but they still suck. Unless well-insulated, the sleeves leak air (and humidity). And there's a duopoly between Ice Air and Islandaire, so they get to charge more for maintenance. They benefit from the trend of maintenance for older models being a yearly chore also. From what I understand, PTACs started as a convenient way to retrofit apartments with air conditioning. You don't need ductwork, which I believe is more expensive in the concrete buildings around here. Also, I think you need protected refrigerant sleeves to meet code here, but only if the sleeves go from one floor to another (someone just told me this fact today, and i haven't verified this). BTW that PTAC's thermostat dial in the link doesn't have numbers around the dial, which I think is honest. No A/C unit I've ever owned has managed to have a thermostat that read the temperature I was feeling consistently. It makes me think the apartment was built before the late 2010s though -- still feels new but a generation ago in HVAC terms. Mini-splits seem to have arrived, even for <1M condos. Talking to the mini-split contractors I had over recently for a squeaky noise, I got the feeling that business was booming. They had every day in the summer booked months in advance.
- Maxion 2mo agoThe PTAC units shown in the article look like something from the 1950s. Minisplits have been the way the world has done AC for a long long time now. It's interesting how foreign of a product it is in the US.
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- a-dub 2mo agothat's a fun project. i'd be a little concerned about the servos failing to fully switch the switches or placing wear on them, maybe a dangerous failure mode where it is switched into and left in an in-between state unattended that could lead to a fire hazard. you can buy smart outlets with the correct connector, just look for 20A versions. (honeywell, at a minimum, sells one). https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/hbt/en-us/documents/literature-and-specs/datasheets/connected-power/hon-ba-bms-cs2001202whi-connected-power-20-amp-outlet-datasheet-20250321.pdf?download=false https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/h...
- EvanAnderson 2mo agoThe lack of feedback from the AC unit makes using a switched outlet potentially problematic. You really need to know the state of the compressor cycling before you go mucking with turning it on and off. (At least this was the case with the refrigeration compressors I am familiar with from my youth.) A current sensor could provide feedback but that goes beyond a regular smart switch.
- a-dub 2mo agoi don't think that's true. i still have a thinkeco ac modlet that coned sent me years ago as part of some kind of "make your ac smart" promotion. if you turn those knobs to the off position while the compressor is running, does it actually go into some kind of orderly shutdown or does it abruptly cut power to the compressor?
- bob1029 2mo agoThe wiring diagram for this article seems to reflect it would be a hard shutdown. Most HVAC systems I have interacted with have zero problems with a sudden power loss. The only potential issue is bringing the compressor back up too quickly on the other side. You could easily control for this if you were switching the whole unit using software.
- inigyou 2mo agoI don't think its the shutdown that's the problem but the restart. If I fiddle with the thermostat on my fridge, it turns off in one direction, but if I turn it all the opposite way it won't come back on for a few minutes. I think this is the relevant interlock. Something about letting pressure equalize.
- EvanAnderson 2mo agoThe "couple a stepper motor to a shaft" API is so much better than any "smart" appliance API. Speaking more seriously, I wish classes of appliances would expose some simple analog and digital interface pins in a standardized configuration to let users choose whatever automation or monitoring hardware they want. HVAC equipment does this with standardized thermostat terminals. I'd love to see that on other types of appliances, too. The manufacturer's crappy "app" that will inevitably be abandoned and require keeping some old phone / tablet in good "health" lest you lose the "smart" functionality (or worse, any use of) the appliance. Then current way of putting the "smarts" inside the appliance is just planned obsolescence and a recipe for all of us being eyeball deep in ewaste.
- danudey 2mo agoIt always kind of blows my mind that I keep seeing "smart TVs" which have a bunch of integration options for high-end AV installations (rich people's houses, etc.) but no API that you can integrate with to just handle toggling channels/inputs/power states/volumes. (I did get my last Sony Bravia integrated with Homekit so that I could control inputs, volume, etc. via the Home app, but that's not really what I'm looking for). Give me an HTTPS API, require me to authenticate devices on the TV itself before it accepts their commands, and just let me do whatever. Default it to off and make it a hidden setting, but yeah just let me do the thing without having to pay tens of thousands of dollars for some professional installation to integrate with hardware I don't have and can't afford.
- ryeguy_24 2mo agoI have to say. Nice work. I spent years wanting to build something like this to integrate to these systems. I never did but have spent years thinking about this. So, nice work and really appreciate your motivation.
- Liftyee 2mo agoI don't get how so many large buildings in NYC and Beijing (two cities that I've personally visited) use independent little AC units like the PTAC or minisplit types. A couple per apartment, peppered over the outer walls. Engineers intuition says surely a large central unit would be more efficient and effective. Is it because of personal ownership reasons? Counterintuitive physics? Heat dissipation limitations on the roof? Can someone with more knowledge clue me in?
- trillic 2mo agoThere are no air ducts to move air between the units. They are old brick buildings and retrofitting central air you might as well tear down and rebuild a lot of the time.
- blacksmith_tb 2mo agoWhich of course means they should use heat pumps, since the copper lines don't need nearly as much room (I suppose you'd still have to put a drywall wall in front of one brick wall potentially). Even just putting a bunch of mini-splits on the roof (instead of individual window AC units) would be an improvement, seems like.
- Amezarak 2mo agoThe only difference between a heat pump and an AC is a reversal valve to change which direction you’re pumping the heat in. (Of course obviously an AC fundamentally is a heat pump, but setting that aside.) That makes it very hard to puzzle out what you mean by this comment.
- kube-system 2mo agoYes, mini-splits are a good retrofit option, and they are efficient as well. They are more work to install than a PTAC, though, so cheap landlords pick PTACs to reduce labor cost. PTACs are self contained and so they don't even require an HVAC technician to install. Simply knock a hole in a wall and plug it in. They are basically a permanent version of a window AC unit.
- andix 2mo agoOT: I'm looking for some way to control my AC via Infrared. I have a few pretty standard AC units with IR remotes. The ones with a display on it, that just transmit all the settings on the remote via IR on every button press. Some device I can mount in proximity, that controls the AC, but preferably also has a temperature and humidity sensor included.
- mardef 2mo agoI use http://getmysa.com http://getmysa.com for this. they have their own app and scheduling, but i just automate mine via homeassistant
- chpatrick 2mo agoSome ACs have UART interfaces inside that can be fairly easily hooked up to an esp32. You could also buy an IR transmitter module from AliExpress and add a temperature/humidity sensor chip on I2C like an SHT41.
- pornel 2mo agoI've successfully emulated remotes with ESPHome + xiao seeed + basic IR diode. Dozen lines of YAML can turn it into a thermostat in Home Assistant. Flipper Zero can record IR remotes.
- cromniomancer 2mo agoThe Broadlink Rm4 Pro IR blaster puck includes an optional "Sensor Cable" which measures temperature and humidity directly. The initial setup via the app is terrible and requires location services for Wi-Fi pairing, but once that's done it has worked fairly well. I had better luck for my use cases with the Aqara M2 Hub. I believe that device is discontinued, but they seem to have other very similar models. No built in climate sensors on that one, but the UX and IR signal response time have been much better overall.
- arikrak 2mo agoAnother option would be to install a smart timer in the outlet. However, you need to ensure that the heat won't automatically go on when the device is turned off, and sometimes the outlets are non-standard formats.
- inigyou 2mo agoTFA mentions this.
- vayun 2mo agohttps://esphome.io/ https://esphome.io/ would make the software side of this a 10 minute job
- Moto7451 2mo agoMaybe not as fun but my sun room window unit is controlled by an off the shelf $20 thermostat designed for Air Conditioners. It’s the LUX Win 100 and is date/time programmable and features a compressor lockout so it doesn’t burn out your window unit by short cycling. If you have a favorite smart thermostat you could also wire up a receptacle with a contactor between it and a cord and a 24v AC transformer wired to the line side. This would make your window unit controllable just like a central air conditioner.
- bmurphy1976 2mo agoYou need to 3D print a bracket. That's what will give you the last 10-20%.
- pudgywalsh 2mo agoI can't offer praise for controlling a mechanical thermostat with a poorly-implemented software thermostat. If this was a remote control knob it might begin to make sense, but it isn't. A NYC apartment with a 115V PTAC is by definition the size of a shoebox, is twisting a knob twice a day really that much of a burden?
- asveikau 2mo ago> Imprecisely yeet the stepper motor all the way left/right, toggling the target temp between “really really hot” or “really really cold” > Option 2 certainly is the “jankier” of the two options, given that it relies on a second-order property (target temp) to power the unit on/off… but hey - whatever’s easier, right? Isn't this basically how a thermostat works? I.e. there is a component that is binary on/off, and a thermometer is used to decide to switch on or off.
- yakkers 2mo agoFor the purpose of cooling, just setting the thermostat to its hottest setting would be in effect "off" just about all of the time. Depending on the design/temperature range of the thermostat, this isn't 100% though. If you want to be able to do both heating and cooling, it'd get a bit complicated since the above would be inverted for heating.
- robbak 2mo agoThermostats often have mechanisms at the top and/or bottom that force the switch to be on or off.
- petesergeant 2mo ago> binary on/off On older ones, but newer ones can modulate blower speed, compressor speed, and refrigerant flow. Don't think I've seen an air-con without blower-speed as part of the cooling apparatus for a long while.
- daniel5151 2mo agoOh, hey, I'm the author! Happy to answer any questions :)
- LittleLily 2mo agoAny reason why you didn't just use ESPHome for the firmware? It even has a component specifically for the ULN2003 stepper motor driver you were using https://esphome.io/components/stepper/#uln2003-component https://esphome.io/components/stepper/#uln2003-component
- daniel5151 2mo agoTruth be told, while I had known about ESPHome while working on this project, for some reason, I just felt the urge to hack together my own firmware. It might've been because my early testing was done via an old Arduino Uno board, and I must've figured that I might as well port the sketch over to the ESP32 once I had it working. (I'm general though, I will say that LLMs can totally write bespoke one-off firmwares like this, and I don't feel too bad about it, given that it's running entirely within my LAN, and will never actually get "productized")
- sublinear 2mo agoI'm pretty sure doing janky things to the AC you don't own is a lease violation. I'd gladly let them keep the security deposit so that evil companies like RealPage don't blacklist me.
- inigyou 2mo agoYou have to learn to ignore what the rules say and go after the practical reality. How will the landlord know you did this? They won't.
- scottlamb 2mo ago> I'm pretty sure doing janky things to the AC you don't own is a lease violation. Why? Not all "janky" things are the same: * Sloppy changes to the internal 240V wiring: yeah probably a violation of the lease, and legitimately likely to burn the place down, with associated liability. * Temporarily mounting to the exterior this mechanism that turns the knob shaft, with no changes to the wiring, no holes, no nothing. I can't think what grounds they'd have for considering this a lease violation or a reason to keep any of the security deposit, as long as you pop the original knob back on when you move out. And as inigyou pointed out, how would they even know?
- scosman 2mo agoI've wired ESP32s into all my old heat pump units using ESPHome. They are more reliable and more responsive than the $400 dongle they sold with newer units.
- gwbas1c 2mo agoI don't understand why he can't just connect / disconnect the power? The thermostat is a bi-metallic strip. Assuming the thermostat is controlling 120V AC: 1: There are plenty of cheap wireless thermostats for AC that you can buy off of Amazon. I have two, and they work great with space heaters. 2: You can use a 120V relay with those thermostats to control different voltages, amperages, ect. --- BTW, controlling the dial for min cool, max cool, ect, could increase efficiency. Max cool is only needed if the unit's been off, or it's a super-hot day.
- daniel5151 2mo agoI discuss this quite early in the writeup. There is a whole section on why a smart plug will not work here.
- cogman10 2mo agoIf you are ever feeling like burning down your apartment ;), the route I'd take is buying a 5-20p extension cable, cutting it open, and splicing in a 120V switch into the middle of it. You can find a few smart switches that fit that bill for whatever relay tech you are interested. It's non-invasive for the AC unit and can be quickly removed. There's only 3 wires to deal with as well so it's not THAT scary to make your own cable (but I'd understand why you might feel differently).
- gwbas1c 2mo agoI skimmed that. First, I'm not referring to a smart plug. I'm referring to a thermostat-controlled plug. You were afraid that it would rapidly turn the AC on and off, which would burn out the motor. They don't do that. Mine (when I use them with a heater) run it for a few minutes, then turn it off for awhile. They don't rapidly turn the heater on and off. I assume it's the same way when run in cooling mode. The people who make them aren't stupid. --- WRT a rely: They are safe, you just need to look at the rating for the load. (The point of a relay is to switch a high current / voltage load.) I use an industrial one for an outdoor outlet: It can handle the full 15 amps of the circuit safely. (I use it to adapt a smart switch that can only handle light loads, including a relay.)
- syntaxing 2mo agoAs a renter myself, I get the author's pain. I ended up just installing this non destructive retrofit switch for most of my home automation + smart bulbs. [1] https://www.thirdreality.com/products/smart-switch-gen3 https://www.thirdreality.com/products/smart-switch-gen3
- ZeroCool2u 2mo agoI have this exact same problem. It's really the only annoying thing about my apartment. Would absolutely pay for an off the shelf solution to this problem.
- legastenigga 2mo ago[dead]
- system7rocks 2mo agoThese articles, over and over again, are what have made Hacker News one of my regular go tos for amazing ideas and creative ingenuity.
- MajorTakeaway 2mo agoGlad I have a remote control with 40 year old tech that does the same thing.
- kazinator 2mo agoIf all you need to do is replace a potentiometer with electronic control, it may be possible to do that with a vactrol. It's more invasive perhaps, but then we're not dealing with anything mechanical. A vactrol is a device which combines LED and photoresistor in one package (sealed against the leakage of light). The photoresistor has a "dark resistance" that is typically very high, like hundreds of thousands of ohms. When it is illuminated by the LED, the resistance goes down: you control how much via the current to the LED. Another possibility is using a digital potentiometer, like this: https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20005207B.pdf https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20005207B.p... A digital pot is an integrated circuit that switches a bank of resistors with FETs to create a desired resistance, or combination of resistances to simulate a wiper position along an analog pot's track. They are programmed with I2C and such. These things have certain disadvantages; like the one I linked to requires that power rails be provided for the analog domain where the resistors "live", and the voltages on them must be within this range. The vactrol has no such issue; it is a passive resistor with light shining on it.
- dlenski 2mo ago> If all you need to do is replace a potentiometer with electronic control, it may be possible to do that with a vactrol. It's more invasive perhaps, but then we're not dealing with anything mechanical. This is what I was wondering about as well. The knobs on the unit are probably potentiometers, so it ought to be possible to replace them with a digital device of some kind, and avoid the mechanical coupling altogether. I imagine that the author did consider this possibility, but decided that disassembling the control panel in order to replace or byypass them was just too difficult and dangerous, especially since everything is at AC line voltage as he notes in the write-up. The modern smart thermostats that I've looked inside have a clean separate between the low-voltage digital side, and the AC-line-voltage power control side… but evidently these older purely-analog devices didn't.
- nightfly 2mo ago> so it took a few Amazon returns until I found the right one This a pet peeve of mine. If you buy the wrong $2 part don't return it. If you don't eat the loss the seller will and the part will wind up in the landfill.
- wccrawford 2mo agoIt's $7 part made of a tiny bit of metal. If it was actually a $2 part, I'd agree with you. But it's enough that it's probably worth returning, especially since he had to try a few to get it right, and then he can return them all at once. It's not his fault if it ends up in the landfill. That's on Amazon. Also, they have discount stores they ship returned stuff to before it hits the landfill.
- Graziano_M 2mo agoDamn. I have wanted to do the same at my place for years (also in NYC). He beat me to it. I also can’t just use a smart plug. Unfortunately I only have one knob, it has four positions (and is open anywhere between), and requires a good amount of torque to move. I’d need to gear down the stepper and figure out a way to detect when it’s in the correct position (maybe an encoder, maybe current sense to ‘feel’ when it’s reached a close position?)
- vrighter 2mo agoI turned mine smart by using an esp32, an IR led and a n ir demodulator. The esp32 has the ir led pointed towards the AC and the receiver aimed at the room. It then hosts a small html page and connects via wifi to my home network. It used the receiver to sync its internal state, if the actual remote controller was used.
- timvdalen 2mo agoThe more I mess around with ESP32s and home automation, the more I realize that was looks like jank to a software engineer is just the way these things work. Look at the MAC addresses of smart devices connected to your home network and 90% of them are just going to be ESP32 chips hooked up in this way to some control mechanism, but in a nicer enclosure.
- timvdalen 2mo agoSince you hooked it up to Home Assistant anyway, I think you could have skipped the custom firmware and just used ESPHome with a Button component https://esphome.io/components/button/ https://esphome.io/components/button/
- bdavbdav 2mo agoESP home is so powerful like this. And is great to build components for (although I find this part a little complex, lots of Claude help…). I’ve got a vibe coded “Nuaire Fan” controller to talk UART to my whole home ventilation and present it as a HA controllable fan.
- timvdalen 2mo agoIndeed! I have a CC1101 hooked up to an ESP32C6 that controls my Itho mechanical ventilation unit as a fan in HA. I couldn't believe it when it basically worked on the first try, including pairing with the base unit and other remotes.
- bdavbdav 2mo agoI think the crank the temp hard one way or another is a fairly common approach. It’s what I do to have home assistant use my nest thermostat as a dumb switch.
- m101 2mo agoA friend of mine has the same problem with his, but his AC unit doesn't have knobs but rather has touch sensitive buttons (those ones where a finger is required). Any ideas how we might get around controlling that one?
- showerst 2mo agoDepends on the type of button, but conductive tape can work - https://alexmeub.com/automating-capacitive-buttons-with-switchbot/ https://alexmeub.com/automating-capacitive-buttons-with-swit...
- marcogarces 2mo agoHere I was all proud of myself for controlling my Mitsubishi AC via CN105 connector using pure ESPHome and this guy does this great hack! Good job!
- niko323 2mo agoThis is great! Congrats!