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This might be good for slicing random decorative models that weren't designed with printing in mind. Because when I care about strength and printability I do s
by progbits 2y ago
This might be good for slicing random decorative models that weren't designed with printing in mind.
Because when I care about strength and printability I do so from beginning and base the whole design around it. There is no need for a tool to pick print orientation for me because I know before the first CAD extrude how it's going to be printed.
- Filligree 2y agoHow would you design a screw thread adapter that needs to resist shear?
- progbits 2y agoI certainly wouldn't 3d print it, that is a job for off the shelf metal part.
- Filligree 2y agoNobody has any clue what the thing is. :D It claims to be BSP, but it’s 1 inch (1.1?) with 19 threads per inch (18?), which matches no standard I’ve ever found.
- linsomniac 2y agoPrint a mold, cast it in wax, put that in casting sand, then do a lost-wax casting in aluminum or something more exotic if necessary and you're able?
- Filligree 2y agoI think at that point I'd have to ask someone to make it for me.
- r2_pilot 2y agoLathe would be the tool to use in that case.
- linsomniac 2y agoYou're absolutely right. But I have a 3D printer, casting sand, and a torch... I don't have a lathe, sadly.
- nmeofthestate 2y agoA 3D printed plastic part could be fine depending on the application. Certainly worth considering/testing. Printing it flat on the bed (with a small flat side) so layers are lengthwise may work.
- 83 2y agoIf it needs any amount of strength you'll want to find someone with a lathe. BSP tells me it may be tapered(?) so find someone with a taper attachment. Even as a hobbyist I could probably make one of those on my lathe faster than drawing it and printing it on my 3d printer.
- hinkley 2y agoSee also threaded inserts for the other half of that fastener.
- Aurornis 2y agoAt some point you have so many competing compromises that you're sacrificing one aspect to improve another. When this happens, I pick what's easiest to print and make up the strength with a lot of extra wall loops, slightly higher print temperature (for better layer adhesion, as print quality allows), and stronger material selection. If this is a critical or load bearing part, I'd skip 3D printing entirely and get it machined.
- sitkack 2y ago45 degrees to the bed, 3+ walls, gyroid infill 40%