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An internal transmission hub replaces a hub, cassette, and derailleur and starts at less than $100 for the whole kit. A derailleur can cost $10, but it won’t b

An internal transmission hub replaces a hub, cassette, and derailleur and starts at less than $100 for the whole kit. A derailleur can cost $10, but it won’t be nearly as durable. Buying a high quality one is gonna cost in the same neighborhood as $100.

nradov 2y ago
A derailleur makes it a lot easier to maintain correct chain tension. Fixing a rear flat by the side of the road is more of a hassle with an internal transmission hub (or a fixie).
- wyre 2y ago
  I’d argue fixing a flat on a IGH or fixed gear/single speed is easier than a geared bike. Hardest thing about a single speed is needing the proper tool to remove the axle nuts, but after that take the chain off the cog and the wheel will slip right out, just as easy to put back in, just reverse the process. Getting chain tension can be tricky, but tighten the drive side bolt first at the point the chainline has about a centimeter of mesial play and once you tighten the other bolt the chain line should be spot on. Where a geared bike with a derailleur will need you to put the bike in the smallest gear, and untangle the chain from the cassette. Replacing the wheel back in requires the chain to be properly laced around the cassette and can require dexterity. Unfortunately derailleurs are necessary to ensure chain tension when the bicycle frame isn’t designed the allow for manual chain tensioning (vertical dropouts). Also, run tubeless and flats will feel like a thing of the past.
  - lostlogin 2y ago
    Tubeless is a right pain when the hole is large or otherwise unplugged by the sealant. The geyser of glue makes a hell of a mess too. I went back to inner tubes.
    - Angostura 2y ago
      Same
  - ivandenysov 2y ago
    Unfortunately all IGHs are not created equal. Removing a back wheel with a Shimano Nexus with a coast break is a lot harder than removing a back wheel with a Rohloff.
    - andrewshadura 2y ago
      It’s not difficult at all, just release the clickbox, unscrew two axle nuts, unscrew the brake arm. If you have any chain tensioners, slightly unscrew each the same amount.
  - Moru 2y ago
    Your description of the way of fixing a flat on a fixed gear sound much more work than the deraileur way. You disengage the handbrake if you have rim-brakes, open the quick-release for the wheel, bend the deraileur outwards a bit and just lift the wheel out. The gear is already at a low gear (does not have to be smallest) since you just got a flat. Reinstall by moving the casette back inbetween the chain on the same cog and just drop it down and flip the quickrelease back to locked. Connect the brake again if you have rimbrakes. No need to fix chain tension. I guess it all depends on what you are used to do. I had soooo many flats last year when the spikes started eating through my one year old schwalbe wintertires. 220 spikes makes 220 holes. Had to give up on fixing the holes and change innertube until I could get new tires. Not schwalbe this time. Don't think tubeless would do any difference here though, see enough people get flats with those too and as someone else stated, the glue can get pretty messy.
  - nradov 2y ago
    Tubeless sucks. I've seen several cyclists on group rides running tubeless tires have flats that couldn't be fixed at all, or required installing a tube to get home. Maybe it works well enough for mountain bikes but for road bikes the tubeless tires seem too weak.
    - r00fus 2y ago
      Anyone running tubeless who doesn't also bring a tube or two in their underseat bag is not doing it right. Having a properly packed underseat bag is essential to any long ride. Also I have never run tubeless at 25mm. Most folks I see running tubeless have 28mm at the smallest.
  - deleted 2y ago
    [deleted]
Etheryte 2y ago
I'm not really seeing the argument. I've never had a derailleur break, if anything, this sounds like some supreme yak shaving. Granted, I don't ride bikes for a living, but I ride a bike every day and durability isn't even remotely as big of an issue as you make it out to be.
- alan-hn 2y ago
  Have you ever rode a bike with a $10 derailleur for a long time? I'm guessing there are differences in part durability
  - willcipriano 2y ago
    I have. The welding that held the handlebars in place was the first to go, twice.
- dghlsakjg 2y ago
  I have broken derailleurs, and I’ve also had them bumped out of adjustment and damaged at bike racks. Switching is probably a bit of an unecessary faff. But if you want a drivetrain that can be ignored or neglected and never complain, an internal gear is really great. For a commuter bike it also allows you to fully cover the chain and chainring if you want.
- r00fus 2y ago
  Once the bike is dropped drive-side and the derailleur hanger is bent, all it takes is a normal ride to catch the derailleur in the spokes and you get a very expensive repair.
jjav 2y ago
What kind of derailleur can one get for $10? Looking at jensonusa, the cheapest rear derailleur is a Shimano Altus 7/8 speed for $22.

nradov 2y ago

A derailleur makes it a lot easier to maintain correct chain tension. Fixing a rear flat by the side of the road is more of a hassle with an internal transmission hub (or a fixie).

wyre 2y ago
I’d argue fixing a flat on a IGH or fixed gear/single speed is easier than a geared bike. Hardest thing about a single speed is needing the proper tool to remove the axle nuts, but after that take the chain off the cog and the wheel will slip right out, just as easy to put back in, just reverse the process. Getting chain tension can be tricky, but tighten the drive side bolt first at the point the chainline has about a centimeter of mesial play and once you tighten the other bolt the chain line should be spot on. Where a geared bike with a derailleur will need you to put the bike in the smallest gear, and untangle the chain from the cassette. Replacing the wheel back in requires the chain to be properly laced around the cassette and can require dexterity. Unfortunately derailleurs are necessary to ensure chain tension when the bicycle frame isn’t designed the allow for manual chain tensioning (vertical dropouts). Also, run tubeless and flats will feel like a thing of the past.
- lostlogin 2y ago
  Tubeless is a right pain when the hole is large or otherwise unplugged by the sealant. The geyser of glue makes a hell of a mess too. I went back to inner tubes.
  - Angostura 2y ago
    Same
- ivandenysov 2y ago
  Unfortunately all IGHs are not created equal. Removing a back wheel with a Shimano Nexus with a coast break is a lot harder than removing a back wheel with a Rohloff.
  - andrewshadura 2y ago
    It’s not difficult at all, just release the clickbox, unscrew two axle nuts, unscrew the brake arm. If you have any chain tensioners, slightly unscrew each the same amount.
- Moru 2y ago
  Your description of the way of fixing a flat on a fixed gear sound much more work than the deraileur way. You disengage the handbrake if you have rim-brakes, open the quick-release for the wheel, bend the deraileur outwards a bit and just lift the wheel out. The gear is already at a low gear (does not have to be smallest) since you just got a flat. Reinstall by moving the casette back inbetween the chain on the same cog and just drop it down and flip the quickrelease back to locked. Connect the brake again if you have rimbrakes. No need to fix chain tension. I guess it all depends on what you are used to do. I had soooo many flats last year when the spikes started eating through my one year old schwalbe wintertires. 220 spikes makes 220 holes. Had to give up on fixing the holes and change innertube until I could get new tires. Not schwalbe this time. Don't think tubeless would do any difference here though, see enough people get flats with those too and as someone else stated, the glue can get pretty messy.
- nradov 2y ago
  Tubeless sucks. I've seen several cyclists on group rides running tubeless tires have flats that couldn't be fixed at all, or required installing a tube to get home. Maybe it works well enough for mountain bikes but for road bikes the tubeless tires seem too weak.
  - r00fus 2y ago
    Anyone running tubeless who doesn't also bring a tube or two in their underseat bag is not doing it right. Having a properly packed underseat bag is essential to any long ride. Also I have never run tubeless at 25mm. Most folks I see running tubeless have 28mm at the smallest.
- deleted 2y ago
  [deleted]

Etheryte 2y ago

I'm not really seeing the argument. I've never had a derailleur break, if anything, this sounds like some supreme yak shaving. Granted, I don't ride bikes for a living, but I ride a bike every day and durability isn't even remotely as big of an issue as you make it out to be.

alan-hn 2y ago
Have you ever rode a bike with a $10 derailleur for a long time? I'm guessing there are differences in part durability
- willcipriano 2y ago
  I have. The welding that held the handlebars in place was the first to go, twice.
dghlsakjg 2y ago
I have broken derailleurs, and I’ve also had them bumped out of adjustment and damaged at bike racks. Switching is probably a bit of an unecessary faff. But if you want a drivetrain that can be ignored or neglected and never complain, an internal gear is really great. For a commuter bike it also allows you to fully cover the chain and chainring if you want.
r00fus 2y ago
Once the bike is dropped drive-side and the derailleur hanger is bent, all it takes is a normal ride to catch the derailleur in the spokes and you get a very expensive repair.

jjav 2y ago

What kind of derailleur can one get for $10? Looking at jensonusa, the cheapest rear derailleur is a Shimano Altus 7/8 speed for $22.