4 ms·

Onsen: A Peek into Japan’s Hot Springs

54 points by zdw 3y ago

jaipilot747 3y ago
I thoroughly enjoyed this piece. Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette, but it was definitely worth it. Sitting in a hot onsen while it's snowing, peacefully in the middle of nature.. it was an incredible experience.
- ljlolel 3y ago
  I love onsens so much, but this is also true in a hot tub at a ski area. Fond memories of Tahoe and Colorado.
  - ChatGTP 3y ago
    I’ve done both but in Japan the actual natural hot spring water is just an incredible addition to the experience which imo cannot be matched in a traditional hot tub.
- Aeolun 3y ago
  > Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette It’s daunting only in that you are worried about them. As long as you wash yourself before you step in you’re not committing any crimes more atrocious than the Japanese visitors :) (and some of those barbarians don’t wash themselves either)
kizunajp 3y ago
Hello HN! Author here. This was an absolutely _fascinating_ topic to research and write about. So many different perspectives and so much depth to each of them. I am not sure I got all the parts about the geology right and would love any chance to learn from those who know better!
- bibanez 3y ago
  Have you seen Thermae Romae Novae? It's a manga with a Netflix anime adaptation about onsen. Very well-made and it was what got me first interested in onsen!
  - kizunajp 3y ago
    I haven't seen the manga version, but loved the movie adaptation with Abe Hiroshi in it. @strobe999 linked to the Wiki article for the manga. The story follows Lucius, an architect in ancient Rome, who timeslips into modern day Japan. He carries ideas from modern Japan's bathing culture back and builds the public baths of Rome. It's a comedy, but a very informative one at that.
  - lhl 3y ago
    I saw that show, and as an onsen fan loved it, but recently I stumbled upon a pretty interesting article on how Roman baths were... not all that great from a health/hygiene perspective: https://archive.is/Y1un4 https://archive.is/Y1un4
snowman56789 3y ago
Anyone here been to an onsen? Does it really match the marketing or is this more of people falling over themselves with Japan fascination?
- bschwindHN 3y ago
  Onsens are great! I go to several every year. They're especially good after hikes or winter sports like skiing. The best I've been to have outdoor areas with snow falling, it can be so peaceful and relaxing.
- canvascritic 3y ago
  I've been to an onsen during a trip to Japan. The entire process, from the washing ritual to immersing oneself in the hot spring, is an experience that's hard to articulate Whether it aligns with the marketing or is part of the "Japan fascination", I think, is really hard to say especially as an outsider myself There's a tranquility to the surroundings, but it's often disrupted by throngs of tourists. we weren't prepared for the intensity of the sun, even on an overcast day. got chafed and sunburned after a day out, a reminder that nature has its way. that being said, immersing in the onsen was surreal in its relaxation, a balm for the burns. In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one, and it was punctuated with moments of discomfort but also deep relaxation.
  - bschwindHN 3y ago
    > In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one Do you mean the onsen, or travel to Japan in general? Onsen are typically less than 1000 yen to enter - quite cheap for the relaxation they give you.
    - buzer 3y ago
      I would imagine most of tourists experience onsen during ryokan visit instead of going to separate bathhouse and those tend to be somewhat expensive.
    - canpan 3y ago
strobe999 3y ago
Theres an entire manga plus anime adaptation covering this fascinating topic, for anyone invested in these media formats. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermae_Romae https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermae_Romae
- glandium 3y ago
  And two movies, with Abe Hiroshi.
yardstick 3y ago
My two complaints about Onsen are: 1. They are gender separated. So when travelling as a straight couple or in groups you likely can’t share the experience together. Some see this as a plus. I see it as a minus. Put it down to personal preference. 2. Must be nude. Ok well I guess I’m just a prude, but I don’t enjoy the concept of being nude in front of others. Rules out German style spas too. 3. Bonus issue. Tattoos. Because of the criminal association with Tats in Japan you can possibly find it hard to use an Onsen (Ie banned).
- gryson 3y ago
  There's a solution to all of your problems: kashikiri (private / reserved) onsen. These are smaller, private onsen designed for families or couples (or, I suppose, the shy foreigner). They're fairly common.
- deanc 3y ago
  I’m sure the Japanese have many complaints about Western culture when travelling too. Ultimately these are their traditions and we should respect them. I visited an Onsen recently in Bangkok (artificial of course) and the locals were very vocal about any perceived lack of decorum.
  - yardstick 3y ago
    I’m not saying we shouldn’t respect them. I’m just saying they aren’t for everyone and these items in particular weren’t really discussed in the article.
    - johnnyanmac 3y ago
      it's 3 parts, so they may or may not be covered. But even as a westerner, I figure the whole "must be nude" was a given, public or not. It is still technically a bath after all, despite technically showering before submerging yourself. But that may just be the decades of Japanese media exposure making something seemingly obvious to me.
- mitthrowaway2 3y ago
KingMob 3y ago
For anyone looking to experience this in Japan yourselves, be sure to research where to go before showing up. Some onsen will find a polite-sounding excuse to deny foreigners, and most onsen will not let anyone in with visible tattoos. The tattoo bias was originally intended to discriminate against criminals/yakuza and is now used to discriminate against foreigners. Source: My wife was kicked out of one onsen after undressing, and I saw several signs against tattoos.
- Aeolun 3y ago
  While I can’t speak to the tattoos, I have never found an onsen that rejects foreigners in my 11 years here.
- rwmj 3y ago
  It's not used to discriminate against foreigners. I don't have tattoos and have been able to use all onsen in Japan just fine.
4hg4ufxhy 3y ago
I've visited hot springs dozens of times, but one experience was by far the best. I stayed at a 400 year old onsen hotel in late winter(feb) with a private bath on the balcony overseeing a river in the mountains. The loud white noise of the river, the terrible insulation and sleeping on the floor made the night not the most comfortable. But when I woke up early and went to the balcony I tested the water with my feet. It was still 40 degrees and it felt amazing in contrast to the chilly mountain air. I couldn't help but to throw my robe off and enjoy the bath fully submerged. I only had an hour until checkout, but that sense of the moment slipping out of your hands made it all the more precious.
- MattPalmer1086 3y ago
  Similarly, a bath in a balcony in the mountains is one of the best experiences of my life. There was a continuous flow of hot spring water into the large square bath, big enough for two or three people. As you say, the contrast of the cold mountain air and the hot bath with amazing views is just fantastic.
donatj 3y ago
About fifteen years ago shortly after high school I spent a week of our two week trip at an Onsen in Tsu. It was the off-season and we were among only a small handful of guests. The place was pretty off the beaten path and the staff spoke no English. I was not a Japan-o-phile, unlike my friends whom I was with, and yet I found a strong and unexpected appreciation of the beauty and atmosphere of the place, the rain, the warmth of the water, the process of purifying yourself before entering. It was formative.
zztop44 3y ago
Maybe this is covered in part 3, but some towns have a municipal onsen water service for private households. I was recently talking to a real estate agent in southern Kyushu who said that every household in his town could pay 3000yen per month to get unlimited onsen water piped into their home between 7am-10pm every day.
- boomboomsubban 3y ago
  Do you know why 7AM to 10PM? That sounds like some employee is necessary to facilitate piping the water, but I can't imagine what role they would have that isn't automated with standard municipal water.
  - Danieru 3y ago
    Municipal style "network" onsen will distribute onsen water but the broad distribution means the water cools down. My guess would be the city does not wish to run the reheaters during low use periods. Onsen piping requires maintenance, more than regular water systems, but not daily.
Aeolun 3y ago
WTF. Part 3 is for subscribers only? This is one of the worst kinds of bait and switch I’ve seen in recent years. Either make your article open, or make it closed. Don’t limit arbitrary parts when you split it up due to size (which you’re already doing not due to size but due to advertisements).
tkgally 3y ago
If anyone is interested in how Western visitors viewed Japanese baths and onsen in the 19th and early 20th centuries, I compiled some accounts here: https://www.gally.net/jatsi/culture/bathing.html https://www.gally.net/jatsi/culture/bathing.html
Escapado 3y ago
I was in japan for the first time earlier this year for 6 weeks. I travelled around with my japanese girlfriend and the first night we spent at a traditional inn in Hakone were we booked a private onsen later at night. In short: It was amazing. It smelled a little funny at first but it felt incredibly relaxing, my skin felt really good afterwards and it was perfect to recover from the 16 hours of flight earlier. At home I also regularly take hot baths in the bathtub but it can't compare at all with the night sky view and the whole ritual around it. I'll be back in japan this october for an extended amount of time and I will absolutely go to onsen every chance I get.
FreshStart 3y ago
Same for the romans. Volcanics are at fault..

54 points by zdw 3y ago

I thoroughly enjoyed this piece. Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette, but it was definitely worth it. Sitting in a hot onsen while it's snowing, peacefully in the middle of nature.. it was an incredible experience.

ljlolel 3y ago
I love onsens so much, but this is also true in a hot tub at a ski area. Fond memories of Tahoe and Colorado.
- ChatGTP 3y ago
  I’ve done both but in Japan the actual natural hot spring water is just an incredible addition to the experience which imo cannot be matched in a traditional hot tub.
Aeolun 3y ago
> Going to an onsen can at first be a bit daunting with all the rules and etiquette It’s daunting only in that you are worried about them. As long as you wash yourself before you step in you’re not committing any crimes more atrocious than the Japanese visitors :) (and some of those barbarians don’t wash themselves either)

kizunajp 3y ago

Hello HN! Author here. This was an absolutely _fascinating_ topic to research and write about. So many different perspectives and so much depth to each of them. I am not sure I got all the parts about the geology right and would love any chance to learn from those who know better!

bibanez 3y ago
Have you seen Thermae Romae Novae? It's a manga with a Netflix anime adaptation about onsen. Very well-made and it was what got me first interested in onsen!
- kizunajp 3y ago
  I haven't seen the manga version, but loved the movie adaptation with Abe Hiroshi in it. @strobe999 linked to the Wiki article for the manga. The story follows Lucius, an architect in ancient Rome, who timeslips into modern day Japan. He carries ideas from modern Japan's bathing culture back and builds the public baths of Rome. It's a comedy, but a very informative one at that.
- lhl 3y ago
  I saw that show, and as an onsen fan loved it, but recently I stumbled upon a pretty interesting article on how Roman baths were... not all that great from a health/hygiene perspective: https://archive.is/Y1un4 https://archive.is/Y1un4

snowman56789 3y ago

Anyone here been to an onsen? Does it really match the marketing or is this more of people falling over themselves with Japan fascination?

bschwindHN 3y ago
Onsens are great! I go to several every year. They're especially good after hikes or winter sports like skiing. The best I've been to have outdoor areas with snow falling, it can be so peaceful and relaxing.
canvascritic 3y ago
I've been to an onsen during a trip to Japan. The entire process, from the washing ritual to immersing oneself in the hot spring, is an experience that's hard to articulate Whether it aligns with the marketing or is part of the "Japan fascination", I think, is really hard to say especially as an outsider myself There's a tranquility to the surroundings, but it's often disrupted by throngs of tourists. we weren't prepared for the intensity of the sun, even on an overcast day. got chafed and sunburned after a day out, a reminder that nature has its way. that being said, immersing in the onsen was surreal in its relaxation, a balm for the burns. In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one, and it was punctuated with moments of discomfort but also deep relaxation.
- bschwindHN 3y ago
  > In any case it was an experience, certainly not a cheap one Do you mean the onsen, or travel to Japan in general? Onsen are typically less than 1000 yen to enter - quite cheap for the relaxation they give you.
  - buzer 3y ago
    I would imagine most of tourists experience onsen during ryokan visit instead of going to separate bathhouse and those tend to be somewhat expensive.
  - canpan 3y ago

strobe999 3y ago

Theres an entire manga plus anime adaptation covering this fascinating topic, for anyone invested in these media formats. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermae_Romae https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermae_Romae

glandium 3y ago
And two movies, with Abe Hiroshi.

yardstick 3y ago

My two complaints about Onsen are: 1. They are gender separated. So when travelling as a straight couple or in groups you likely can’t share the experience together. Some see this as a plus. I see it as a minus. Put it down to personal preference. 2. Must be nude. Ok well I guess I’m just a prude, but I don’t enjoy the concept of being nude in front of others. Rules out German style spas too. 3. Bonus issue. Tattoos. Because of the criminal association with Tats in Japan you can possibly find it hard to use an Onsen (Ie banned).

gryson 3y ago
There's a solution to all of your problems: kashikiri (private / reserved) onsen. These are smaller, private onsen designed for families or couples (or, I suppose, the shy foreigner). They're fairly common.
deanc 3y ago
I’m sure the Japanese have many complaints about Western culture when travelling too. Ultimately these are their traditions and we should respect them. I visited an Onsen recently in Bangkok (artificial of course) and the locals were very vocal about any perceived lack of decorum.
- yardstick 3y ago
  I’m not saying we shouldn’t respect them. I’m just saying they aren’t for everyone and these items in particular weren’t really discussed in the article.
  - johnnyanmac 3y ago
    it's 3 parts, so they may or may not be covered. But even as a westerner, I figure the whole "must be nude" was a given, public or not. It is still technically a bath after all, despite technically showering before submerging yourself. But that may just be the decades of Japanese media exposure making something seemingly obvious to me.
mitthrowaway2 3y ago

KingMob 3y ago

For anyone looking to experience this in Japan yourselves, be sure to research where to go before showing up. Some onsen will find a polite-sounding excuse to deny foreigners, and most onsen will not let anyone in with visible tattoos. The tattoo bias was originally intended to discriminate against criminals/yakuza and is now used to discriminate against foreigners. Source: My wife was kicked out of one onsen after undressing, and I saw several signs against tattoos.

Aeolun 3y ago
While I can’t speak to the tattoos, I have never found an onsen that rejects foreigners in my 11 years here.
rwmj 3y ago
It's not used to discriminate against foreigners. I don't have tattoos and have been able to use all onsen in Japan just fine.

4hg4ufxhy 3y ago

I've visited hot springs dozens of times, but one experience was by far the best. I stayed at a 400 year old onsen hotel in late winter(feb) with a private bath on the balcony overseeing a river in the mountains. The loud white noise of the river, the terrible insulation and sleeping on the floor made the night not the most comfortable. But when I woke up early and went to the balcony I tested the water with my feet. It was still 40 degrees and it felt amazing in contrast to the chilly mountain air. I couldn't help but to throw my robe off and enjoy the bath fully submerged. I only had an hour until checkout, but that sense of the moment slipping out of your hands made it all the more precious.

MattPalmer1086 3y ago
Similarly, a bath in a balcony in the mountains is one of the best experiences of my life. There was a continuous flow of hot spring water into the large square bath, big enough for two or three people. As you say, the contrast of the cold mountain air and the hot bath with amazing views is just fantastic.

donatj 3y ago

About fifteen years ago shortly after high school I spent a week of our two week trip at an Onsen in Tsu. It was the off-season and we were among only a small handful of guests. The place was pretty off the beaten path and the staff spoke no English. I was not a Japan-o-phile, unlike my friends whom I was with, and yet I found a strong and unexpected appreciation of the beauty and atmosphere of the place, the rain, the warmth of the water, the process of purifying yourself before entering. It was formative.

zztop44 3y ago

Maybe this is covered in part 3, but some towns have a municipal onsen water service for private households. I was recently talking to a real estate agent in southern Kyushu who said that every household in his town could pay 3000yen per month to get unlimited onsen water piped into their home between 7am-10pm every day.

boomboomsubban 3y ago
Do you know why 7AM to 10PM? That sounds like some employee is necessary to facilitate piping the water, but I can't imagine what role they would have that isn't automated with standard municipal water.
- Danieru 3y ago
  Municipal style "network" onsen will distribute onsen water but the broad distribution means the water cools down. My guess would be the city does not wish to run the reheaters during low use periods. Onsen piping requires maintenance, more than regular water systems, but not daily.

Aeolun 3y ago

WTF. Part 3 is for subscribers only? This is one of the worst kinds of bait and switch I’ve seen in recent years. Either make your article open, or make it closed. Don’t limit arbitrary parts when you split it up due to size (which you’re already doing not due to size but due to advertisements).

tkgally 3y ago

If anyone is interested in how Western visitors viewed Japanese baths and onsen in the 19th and early 20th centuries, I compiled some accounts here: https://www.gally.net/jatsi/culture/bathing.html https://www.gally.net/jatsi/culture/bathing.html

Escapado 3y ago

I was in japan for the first time earlier this year for 6 weeks. I travelled around with my japanese girlfriend and the first night we spent at a traditional inn in Hakone were we booked a private onsen later at night. In short: It was amazing. It smelled a little funny at first but it felt incredibly relaxing, my skin felt really good afterwards and it was perfect to recover from the 16 hours of flight earlier. At home I also regularly take hot baths in the bathtub but it can't compare at all with the night sky view and the whole ritual around it. I'll be back in japan this october for an extended amount of time and I will absolutely go to onsen every chance I get.

FreshStart 3y ago

Same for the romans. Volcanics are at fault..