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Amateur home cook offering my experience using a portable induction cooktop next to my electric stove top. I'm in the US, so my induction cooktop is an anemic 1
by prometheus76 5y ago
Amateur home cook offering my experience using a portable induction cooktop next to my electric stove top. I'm in the US, so my induction cooktop is an anemic 1800 watt one because it's 120V, instead of the beefier European/Asian models that are 3500W 220V versions.
That out of the way, here are the positives from my perspective:
* induction boils a pot of water dramatically faster
* the pots, in general, heat up much faster and reach cooking temperatures VERY fast (as in, under two minutes)
* the surface itself only heats up as a result of the pan itself back-heating the surface of the cooktop.
* fixed, known heat settings for specific temperatures.
* almost instant pan response to temperature setting changes.
Here are the downsides from my perspective:
* No fine control of the "heat". I have eight temperature settings ranging from 140F to 460F. That's a wide range with only ten steps, so I frequently wish I had more fine control of the settings, especially at the lower end. The steps are 140F, 212F, 260F, 300F, 350F, 400F, 425F, and 460F.
* Fan noise. The unit has a built-in fan that is very noticeable.
* It's much easier to burn sauces, because the heat right at the cooking surface seems to be much hotter because it hasn't radiated throughout the whole pan yet. (Please feel free to just say "git gud" at my poor skills.) I don't really know how to articulate this well, but I find myself adjusting for a certain level of boiling, but being surprised at how hot the bottom of the pan actually is, which leads to a burned sauce.
* Only works with certain pans. Most of my cookware is newer and designed to work with induction stoves, but I have a complete set of expensive stainless cookware that I inherited from my mother, and it doesn't work with the induction burner. Works great with cast iron and enameled cast iron, and I have a nonstick aluminum pan that has an iron plate on the bottom, so it works fine. I also have an all-clad stainless frying pan that is triple-layer, and one of those layers is iron, so it works well also. Any non-magnetic pans will not work (copper, aluminum, and older stainless pans).
I use my induction burner when I am cooking something for a long time outside, when I am boiling pasta or making lighter soups, and for deep frying.
I use my conventional electric stove when I am cooking meat, sauces, or thicker stews.
- throw0101a 5y ago> I'm in the US, so my induction cooktop is an anemic 1800 watt one because it's 120V, instead of the beefier European/Asian models that are 3500W 220V versions. If you ever wish to 'upgrade', what you can do is change a plug in your kitchen from the typical NEMA 5-{15,20} to a NEMA 6-{15,20} and then wire it in the panel to 240V, as there are 'commercial' induction cookers available: * https://eurodib.com/products/commercial-induction-cooker/?currency=USD https://eurodib.com/products/commercial-induction-cooker/?cu... * https://www.amazon.com/Eurodib-IHE3097-P2-Commercial-Induction-Cooker/dp/B002JCSNAG https://www.amazon.com/Eurodib-IHE3097-P2-Commercial-Inducti... * https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y7WXQMQ/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y7WXQMQ/
- prometheus76 5y agoThose all have two issues: MUCH higher cost (I got mine for $50) and they still don't offer refined power/temp controls. It's just in large steps. I did find one that uses a reflective thermostat to set the EXACT temperature you want and they said it's accurate to within 1.8 degrees F, but it costs over $1,000 for one burner. My current setup is fine, but if I was going to spend that kind of money on a new stove, it would be for a gas convection oven, not just one stovetop burner.
- jhawkinson 5y agoA quick glance at amazon.co.uk shows high-wattage induction cooktops that are relatively cheap, e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIONIEN-Domino-Induction-Hob-Electric/dp/B0834WJ824/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIONIEN-Domino-Induction-Hob-Electr... is a dual-burner 3500W model that takes 220V-240V (unclear if it's ok on 208V?) for £109.99 (USD$143). 60 Hz would be a leap of faith, but is probably fine. Not $50, but still.
- prometheus76 5y agoThen we're back to having to upgrade an outlet in my house and wire it into the panel, which would cost $400 at least. And the only thing I'm getting for that price is more wattage, but not finer control over the temperature, so I'll stick to my current setup.
- anoojb 5y agoDo you only have a single “burner” running off 120V outlet, or multiple? Considering a custom dual fuel setup. Since I’m limited by a 125AMP panel and we are almost maxed out between an electric heat pump, washer/dryer and maybe an EV.
- prometheus76 5y agoI have a single "burner" that I got from Amazon for $50. It is a 120V, 1800W version. If I were buying a stove/oven for my house, I'd still buy a gas stovetop with an electric convection oven in a heartbeat. I had one in a previous house and I miss it constantly. It had two very large burners and two smaller burners. I loved the exact control with almost instant response of cooking on a gas stove. I work in the energy industry, so I don't lose much sleep over it.
- seanmcdirmid 5y agoMost gas ranges are gas stove tops with gas ovens. To get a gas stovetop and a convection oven, you’d have to do them separately. We are done with our gas stove top, it is just so much harder to keep clean than an induction stove top. And it boils water a lot faster.
- prometheus76 5y agoThey make stoves that are gas top with an electric convection oven. I've owned one and I checked just now and they're still available. They're the best of both worlds for our household.
- convolvatron 5y agono kidding. I assumed that 'simmer' was something these would be really good at. but either way under, or rolling boil