8 ms·

WD 40 is probably one of the most widely misused products out there. It is not a good lubricant, it will dry out too fast. Instead you want an actual oil or oth

WD 40 is probably one of the most widely misused products out there. It is not a good lubricant, it will dry out too fast. Instead you want an actual oil or other based lubricant.

solohan 5y ago
I use WD-40 for my bike chain specifically because it's not an oil and because it dries out fast. This helps prevent gunk build up and makes cleaning the drive train a lot easier. I clean and reapply after/before every ride. Will consider switching to a more environmentally friendly alternative though after reading this thread.
stinos 5y ago
It's the typcial 'one-stop for everything' problem: it's not bad and even pretty good in some things it does, but for each of its uses one can probably find a dedicated better product. Something which makes no sense for a typical household though, hence the popularity. Wrt lubricating properties: there's numerous threads of cyclists going all religious over this. One side just saying "it's not (or a poor) a lubricant" and the other side mechanics claiming "for my customers I use expensive fancy lubricants but for myself I only use WD-40 and my chain is cleaner and runs smoother". Because of the amount of testimonies like that I got curious and tried it and it undeniably has something going for it: no, it's not a pure lubricant, but that doesn't mean it cannot work at all on bicycle chains. Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). And just enough lubricating properties to get some mileage out of it (don't remember, 200km or so), as long as it doesn't rain.
- laputan_machine 5y ago
  I wouldn't trust a bike mechanic that uses WD-40 as a chain lubricant. The only possible scenario I can think of is if they live in an extremely dry place with minimal chance of rust. I live in the UK, if you use WD-40 as a lubricant your chain will be rusty by the end of the week. Use an oil lube (e.g. I use Finish Line Wet). Edit: And it's not "going all religious", it's because I do 6,000km on my bike every year. I know through my own mistakes that WD-40 is not a good chain lube.
  - beefield 5y ago
    I know an (e)bike rental operation that uses wd40 almost exclusively as chain "lube". Their current ebikes have something like 4-5k on the odo, powertrains still the original ones. But they clean/apply the wd40 to the chain between every rental, I guess that makes a difference. So my guess is that if you use wd40 often enough, it is fine.
    - cjrp 5y ago
      Are you sure it's WD40 and not WD40-branded chain lube? I use that on my motorbike, and it's nothing to do with the WD40 spray - just the same parent company.
    - KennyBlanken 5y ago
      WD-40 does not have sufficient film strength. Constantly renewing it won't fix that. It likely works for that e-bike rental operation because there's almost zero load on the chain; tourists renting e-bikes are soft-pedaling and letting the hub motors do all the work. My guess is that WD-40 is being used just to keep the chains clean so tourists don't complain about greasy marks on their legs...or because they see the sparkling chain and think the bikes are "well maintained." Being so light, it would also be easy to wipe off various parts of the bike, again helping it look "well maintained."
      - wbl 5y ago
        A belt would solve those problems or a chain guard.
      - beefield 5y ago
        Center motor, so if anything, the load is higher on the chain than normal bikes. I am not sure how much more than 5k you can realistically expect for a lifetime for an ebike drivetrain regardless how you maintain it. You need to clean the bike anyway between the customers. If a quick wipe with wd40 gives you 5k, I am not sure if the extra miles on the drivetrain justify the extra work and extra cost of a fancier maintenance.
    - 5y ago
- KennyBlanken 5y ago
  > It's the typcial 'one-stop for everything' problem: it's not bad a It absolutely is bad. It's mineral oil with a few random additives thrown in. https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/ https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/ Popular Mechanics tested WD-40 in five popular uses and found it to be the worst choice in every case. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants/ https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-... > Wrt lubricating properties: there's numerous threads of cyclists going all religious over this. The cycling community overwhelmingly has been telling generations of newbie cyclists to stop hosing down their chains with wd40 and use a proper oil. There are a few people who swear by it, but they're people who have never tried anything else, or not actually looked at their chain wear. > Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it WD-40 does not have any special penetrating abilities. Further, the gaps in a bike chain between the various parts are not so small that one needs a penetrating lubricant. What is important is wear, not how clean the chain looks. Wear happens on the pins, inside rollers, and the holes on the chain plates. The chain lengthening means wear on the sprockets, which are significantly more expensive than the chain. A 10-speed chain is maybe $50 at most for a pretty nice one, and chainrings plus cassette can be significantly more than that. The proper chain lube to use depends on the intended conditions, but any lubricant needs to have sufficient film strength - ie keep metal from directly contacting metal. WD-40 has virtually zero film strength. There are a thousand lubricants out there that are better. > (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). I'm not sure what "pure lubricant" means, but there are plenty of dry lubricants suitable for chain use. They are designed for dry conditions, especially dusty ones. Riding in wet conditions usually means you're using a fairly thick chain lubricant. Periodically measure the chain with a ruler to check for chain stretch and replace before wear gets too high that it starts destroying your cogs. Editing to add: If you want to use a wet lubricant for chains, bar and chain oil (ie chainsaw oil) will work just fine. If you want a dry lubricant for chains, use something like Finish Line PTFE. Dupont themselves also sell a PTFE spray, as do several other companies. If you want a crazy penetrating lubricant, McLube's Sailkoat is pretty crazy stuff, but a large spray can is $20+. If you want rust prevention/protection, LPS-3. If you need a penetrant or rust breaker for bolts, you can try the following: Mouse Milk ($$$), Kroil. Mouse Milk is weird stuff, I believe mostly d-limolene (so don't use it near waterways!) but apparently popular for lubricating very high temperature stuff (turbo wastegates, for example) because it does not leave ash/residue behind.
- twic 5y ago
  > Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). And just enough lubricating properties to get some mileage out of it (don't remember, 200km or so), as long as it doesn't rain. This is basically the theory behind Rock'n'Roll's lubes [1] (and perhaps other dry lubes, i don't know): > Rock'N'Roll chain lubes are formulated to clean and lube at the same time when applied. EXTREME, ABSOLUTE DRY and GOLD go deep down into the links, trapping dirt and floating it to the surface where you can wipe it off. Rock'N'Roll chain lubes create a protective membrane that keeps new dirt out and the lube inside, where it's needed. So you douse the chain with it, run it round to work it in, then wipe off as much as you can - the stuff you wipe off carries away loads of filth, and the bit that stays behind dries to leave a wax/teflon layer on the working surfaces of the links. Or something. Whatever it does, it seems to work pretty well! [1] https://rocklube.eu/en/12-chain-lubes https://rocklube.eu/en/12-chain-lubes
systemvoltage 5y ago
What is it for if not for lubricating things? I've asked this question to many people and they never had a good response. Most people secretely just use it as a shitty lubricant.
- xtiansimon 5y ago
  As the article states in the first paragraphs—nudge, nudge—WD stands for ‘water displacement’ and was formulated in the aeronautics industry for the prevention of rust. I use it to winterize my motorcycle in winter months giving the metal parts a thin film of WD-40 (being careful to avoid the brake calipers and rotor).
- gattilorenz 5y ago
  Water and humidity displacer, and a penetrating oil to help unlock rusted/stuck nuts and bolts. Especially the second thing depends I guess on capillary properties, which other lubricants (e.g. silicon oil) don't necessarily have?
- ggm 5y ago
  It's not bad at cleaning kitchen grease off range hoods if you've got stainless steel. And you get a great "manly" scent. I used to use it as a carburettor aide for rarely used lawnmowers to kick start them into life but this is probably bad for the engine. There are real products for this. Penetrative oil for mildly rusted on screws and bolts. And.. a really bad chain lube, or hinge de-squeeler. Basically these things deserve proper lube molybdenum/disulphide stuff. You're depending on the graphite (I think) in wd40 to do the job before the solvent strips all the real lube out.
  - dmos62 5y ago
    You made me laugh with the manly scent part.
    - ggm 5y ago
      As a kid, I thought washing my hands with "swarfega" is what grown ups just did. I truly do have very happy memories of the smell. And clean hot machine oil and electronics has a fine scent all of its own.
lookalike74 5y ago
Yep, it's a solvent more than it is a lubricant.
cmrdporcupine 5y ago
I use it to clean, and then I use a lubricant after.
dzhiurgis 5y ago
I’ve recently discovered aerosol silicon which I’ve emptied the can in a week lubricating everything around the house - drawers, toilet seat, shower door, window hinges, sliding doors to the deck. Then there’s tons of stuff in the car - door handles, hinges, rubber seals.
- idd-nl 5y ago
  Please be careful using silicone oil near things you want to paint later on: everywhere there is a trace of the silicone oil, even years later, you will get "fish eyes" in the new paint. This is the reason I've banned it from my house, the overspray will get on literally everything and it's difficult to prevent and remove. Silicone will make plastic on the outside of your car appear like new again but the effect is short-lived, like two weeks, and there'll be a period after that where it looks blotchy. Door rubbers are OK with silicone but I've used vaseline to similar effect.
- jacquesm 5y ago
  Until you need to remove it, which needs a special application.
- bipson 5y ago
  We had handymen spraying silicone spray all over our (wooden) floor and furniture, because "it helps sliding in the rubber seal" on the doors and windows... "it might be a little slippery, but it will go away in the next days - and don't worry, we take care that nothing spills". It was everywhere after my MIL wiped the whole house down. That spray was strictly not approved for indoor use, and it did not go away ever. My mother finally found a cleaning product that seemed to help, but this was a huge PITA for months and we were so mad. We thought about redoing all wooden floors for ~7k € (in a rented place after all). I was also angry at me, because I know that several larger production facilities have strictly banned silicone based products from their premises, because it will contaminate everything it touches (and everything that thing touches) for the further production steps, e.g. painting. You will never ever get that product off these surfaces again, and it will continue to contaminate until you throw everything in the bin. All the professionals we talked to were convinced that they know no way to get rid of silicone on surfaces (especially indoors in living quarters with small kids present), and sanding the floor down would probably just spread it - cross-contaminating the surfaces again. There are uses for silicone spray (bicycle maintenance, outdoors, cars, etc.), and I would have one at home for these cases - but that whole product line is strictly forbidden at our home forever.
DeathArrow 5y ago
I use silicon spray as lubricant.
XorNot 5y ago
The real problem is technically it's a mild degreaser. I suspect the mistaken use as a lubricant is because it'll dislodge rust which "unsticks" things, but once it dries out what you need to do is put a light machine oil on the part to keep it sliding (I use one of those 3-in-1 deals you find in hardware stores in small bottles).
- jacquesm 5y ago
  Nothing quite like sewing machine oil.
  - throwaway0a5e 5y ago
    #0 grease
amelius 5y ago
> It is not a good lubricant, it will dry out too fast. Yeah, that's why it is so good: people will come back for more ;)
usrusr 5y ago
Worse yet, at some point the manufacturer has rebranded as "WD-40 Company" and started to also sell actual lubricants under that brand name. So whenever someone says "don't use WD-40 as a lube" some person will show up objecting "I use some WD-40 lubes and they are fine, thank you very much"

WD 40 is probably one of the most widely misused products out there. It is not a good lubricant, it will dry out too fast. Instead you want an actual oil or other based lubricant.

solohan 5y ago

I use WD-40 for my bike chain specifically because it's not an oil and because it dries out fast. This helps prevent gunk build up and makes cleaning the drive train a lot easier. I clean and reapply after/before every ride. Will consider switching to a more environmentally friendly alternative though after reading this thread.

stinos 5y ago

It's the typcial 'one-stop for everything' problem: it's not bad and even pretty good in some things it does, but for each of its uses one can probably find a dedicated better product. Something which makes no sense for a typical household though, hence the popularity. Wrt lubricating properties: there's numerous threads of cyclists going all religious over this. One side just saying "it's not (or a poor) a lubricant" and the other side mechanics claiming "for my customers I use expensive fancy lubricants but for myself I only use WD-40 and my chain is cleaner and runs smoother". Because of the amount of testimonies like that I got curious and tried it and it undeniably has something going for it: no, it's not a pure lubricant, but that doesn't mean it cannot work at all on bicycle chains. Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). And just enough lubricating properties to get some mileage out of it (don't remember, 200km or so), as long as it doesn't rain.

laputan_machine 5y ago
I wouldn't trust a bike mechanic that uses WD-40 as a chain lubricant. The only possible scenario I can think of is if they live in an extremely dry place with minimal chance of rust. I live in the UK, if you use WD-40 as a lubricant your chain will be rusty by the end of the week. Use an oil lube (e.g. I use Finish Line Wet). Edit: And it's not "going all religious", it's because I do 6,000km on my bike every year. I know through my own mistakes that WD-40 is not a good chain lube.
- beefield 5y ago
  I know an (e)bike rental operation that uses wd40 almost exclusively as chain "lube". Their current ebikes have something like 4-5k on the odo, powertrains still the original ones. But they clean/apply the wd40 to the chain between every rental, I guess that makes a difference. So my guess is that if you use wd40 often enough, it is fine.
  - cjrp 5y ago
    Are you sure it's WD40 and not WD40-branded chain lube? I use that on my motorbike, and it's nothing to do with the WD40 spray - just the same parent company.
  - KennyBlanken 5y ago
    WD-40 does not have sufficient film strength. Constantly renewing it won't fix that. It likely works for that e-bike rental operation because there's almost zero load on the chain; tourists renting e-bikes are soft-pedaling and letting the hub motors do all the work. My guess is that WD-40 is being used just to keep the chains clean so tourists don't complain about greasy marks on their legs...or because they see the sparkling chain and think the bikes are "well maintained." Being so light, it would also be easy to wipe off various parts of the bike, again helping it look "well maintained."
    - wbl 5y ago
      A belt would solve those problems or a chain guard.
    - beefield 5y ago
      Center motor, so if anything, the load is higher on the chain than normal bikes. I am not sure how much more than 5k you can realistically expect for a lifetime for an ebike drivetrain regardless how you maintain it. You need to clean the bike anyway between the customers. If a quick wipe with wd40 gives you 5k, I am not sure if the extra miles on the drivetrain justify the extra work and extra cost of a fancier maintenance.
  - 5y ago
KennyBlanken 5y ago
> It's the typcial 'one-stop for everything' problem: it's not bad a It absolutely is bad. It's mineral oil with a few random additives thrown in. https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/ https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/ Popular Mechanics tested WD-40 in five popular uses and found it to be the worst choice in every case. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants/ https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-... > Wrt lubricating properties: there's numerous threads of cyclists going all religious over this. The cycling community overwhelmingly has been telling generations of newbie cyclists to stop hosing down their chains with wd40 and use a proper oil. There are a few people who swear by it, but they're people who have never tried anything else, or not actually looked at their chain wear. > Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it WD-40 does not have any special penetrating abilities. Further, the gaps in a bike chain between the various parts are not so small that one needs a penetrating lubricant. What is important is wear, not how clean the chain looks. Wear happens on the pins, inside rollers, and the holes on the chain plates. The chain lengthening means wear on the sprockets, which are significantly more expensive than the chain. A 10-speed chain is maybe $50 at most for a pretty nice one, and chainrings plus cassette can be significantly more than that. The proper chain lube to use depends on the intended conditions, but any lubricant needs to have sufficient film strength - ie keep metal from directly contacting metal. WD-40 has virtually zero film strength. There are a thousand lubricants out there that are better. > (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). I'm not sure what "pure lubricant" means, but there are plenty of dry lubricants suitable for chain use. They are designed for dry conditions, especially dusty ones. Riding in wet conditions usually means you're using a fairly thick chain lubricant. Periodically measure the chain with a ruler to check for chain stretch and replace before wear gets too high that it starts destroying your cogs. Editing to add: If you want to use a wet lubricant for chains, bar and chain oil (ie chainsaw oil) will work just fine. If you want a dry lubricant for chains, use something like Finish Line PTFE. Dupont themselves also sell a PTFE spray, as do several other companies. If you want a crazy penetrating lubricant, McLube's Sailkoat is pretty crazy stuff, but a large spray can is $20+. If you want rust prevention/protection, LPS-3. If you need a penetrant or rust breaker for bolts, you can try the following: Mouse Milk ($$$), Kroil. Mouse Milk is weird stuff, I believe mostly d-limolene (so don't use it near waterways!) but apparently popular for lubricating very high temperature stuff (turbo wastegates, for example) because it does not leave ash/residue behind.
twic 5y ago
> Because of the penetrating/cleaning/anti-rust properties combined it has the tendency to give a super clean chain with not a lot of dirt in it (unlike any other pure lubricant since those just attract and accumulate dirt). And just enough lubricating properties to get some mileage out of it (don't remember, 200km or so), as long as it doesn't rain. This is basically the theory behind Rock'n'Roll's lubes [1] (and perhaps other dry lubes, i don't know): > Rock'N'Roll chain lubes are formulated to clean and lube at the same time when applied. EXTREME, ABSOLUTE DRY and GOLD go deep down into the links, trapping dirt and floating it to the surface where you can wipe it off. Rock'N'Roll chain lubes create a protective membrane that keeps new dirt out and the lube inside, where it's needed. So you douse the chain with it, run it round to work it in, then wipe off as much as you can - the stuff you wipe off carries away loads of filth, and the bit that stays behind dries to leave a wax/teflon layer on the working surfaces of the links. Or something. Whatever it does, it seems to work pretty well! [1] https://rocklube.eu/en/12-chain-lubes https://rocklube.eu/en/12-chain-lubes

systemvoltage 5y ago

What is it for if not for lubricating things? I've asked this question to many people and they never had a good response. Most people secretely just use it as a shitty lubricant.

xtiansimon 5y ago
As the article states in the first paragraphs—nudge, nudge—WD stands for ‘water displacement’ and was formulated in the aeronautics industry for the prevention of rust. I use it to winterize my motorcycle in winter months giving the metal parts a thin film of WD-40 (being careful to avoid the brake calipers and rotor).
gattilorenz 5y ago
Water and humidity displacer, and a penetrating oil to help unlock rusted/stuck nuts and bolts. Especially the second thing depends I guess on capillary properties, which other lubricants (e.g. silicon oil) don't necessarily have?
ggm 5y ago
It's not bad at cleaning kitchen grease off range hoods if you've got stainless steel. And you get a great "manly" scent. I used to use it as a carburettor aide for rarely used lawnmowers to kick start them into life but this is probably bad for the engine. There are real products for this. Penetrative oil for mildly rusted on screws and bolts. And.. a really bad chain lube, or hinge de-squeeler. Basically these things deserve proper lube molybdenum/disulphide stuff. You're depending on the graphite (I think) in wd40 to do the job before the solvent strips all the real lube out.
- dmos62 5y ago
  You made me laugh with the manly scent part.
  - ggm 5y ago
    As a kid, I thought washing my hands with "swarfega" is what grown ups just did. I truly do have very happy memories of the smell. And clean hot machine oil and electronics has a fine scent all of its own.

lookalike74 5y ago

Yep, it's a solvent more than it is a lubricant.

cmrdporcupine 5y ago

I use it to clean, and then I use a lubricant after.

dzhiurgis 5y ago

I’ve recently discovered aerosol silicon which I’ve emptied the can in a week lubricating everything around the house - drawers, toilet seat, shower door, window hinges, sliding doors to the deck. Then there’s tons of stuff in the car - door handles, hinges, rubber seals.

idd-nl 5y ago
Please be careful using silicone oil near things you want to paint later on: everywhere there is a trace of the silicone oil, even years later, you will get "fish eyes" in the new paint. This is the reason I've banned it from my house, the overspray will get on literally everything and it's difficult to prevent and remove. Silicone will make plastic on the outside of your car appear like new again but the effect is short-lived, like two weeks, and there'll be a period after that where it looks blotchy. Door rubbers are OK with silicone but I've used vaseline to similar effect.
jacquesm 5y ago
Until you need to remove it, which needs a special application.
bipson 5y ago
We had handymen spraying silicone spray all over our (wooden) floor and furniture, because "it helps sliding in the rubber seal" on the doors and windows... "it might be a little slippery, but it will go away in the next days - and don't worry, we take care that nothing spills". It was everywhere after my MIL wiped the whole house down. That spray was strictly not approved for indoor use, and it did not go away ever. My mother finally found a cleaning product that seemed to help, but this was a huge PITA for months and we were so mad. We thought about redoing all wooden floors for ~7k € (in a rented place after all). I was also angry at me, because I know that several larger production facilities have strictly banned silicone based products from their premises, because it will contaminate everything it touches (and everything that thing touches) for the further production steps, e.g. painting. You will never ever get that product off these surfaces again, and it will continue to contaminate until you throw everything in the bin. All the professionals we talked to were convinced that they know no way to get rid of silicone on surfaces (especially indoors in living quarters with small kids present), and sanding the floor down would probably just spread it - cross-contaminating the surfaces again. There are uses for silicone spray (bicycle maintenance, outdoors, cars, etc.), and I would have one at home for these cases - but that whole product line is strictly forbidden at our home forever.

DeathArrow 5y ago

I use silicon spray as lubricant.

XorNot 5y ago

The real problem is technically it's a mild degreaser. I suspect the mistaken use as a lubricant is because it'll dislodge rust which "unsticks" things, but once it dries out what you need to do is put a light machine oil on the part to keep it sliding (I use one of those 3-in-1 deals you find in hardware stores in small bottles).

jacquesm 5y ago
Nothing quite like sewing machine oil.
- throwaway0a5e 5y ago
  #0 grease

amelius 5y ago

> It is not a good lubricant, it will dry out too fast. Yeah, that's why it is so good: people will come back for more ;)

usrusr 5y ago

Worse yet, at some point the manufacturer has rebranded as "WD-40 Company" and started to also sell actual lubricants under that brand name. So whenever someone says "don't use WD-40 as a lube" some person will show up objecting "I use some WD-40 lubes and they are fine, thank you very much"