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To me surfing feels like running - you spend most of your time in that meditative state you reach when running, sitting on your board going up and down on the w
by comrade1 11y ago
To me surfing feels like running - you spend most of your time in that meditative state you reach when running, sitting on your board going up and down on the waves, watching the ocean and waiting for a good one.
The difference of course from running is that there's no feeling like when you see a good wave coming and you start prepping, lay on your board, start paddling, and then catch the wave. It's almost more like hunting.
I used to live in Ventura and surfed almost every day but now I live in a landlocked country - Switzerland. I run almost every day and get that meditative feeling, but I only get that excitement here of catching a wave that I had in Ventura during the winter when I ski off-piste.
- gtani 11y agoi met a few people who've river surfed in Switzerland and Germany. Every time i asked them which river and where, the answer was "Can't say". Kind of like Palos Verdes or Mendocino, but there's some good footage e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdEcIYwl_H8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdEcIYwl_H8