although the body of text does little to explore the full sub-title it is: "The obsession with eating natural and artisanal is ahistorical. We should demand mo

although the body of text does little to explore the full sub-title it is: "The obsession with eating natural and artisanal is ahistorical. We should demand more high-quality industrial food." in that sense i feel the author cannot be accused of saying "let them eat tomato bbq sauce", rather they are imploring industrial food manufacturers to provide food 'on par' with fresh produce - like tomatos.