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One way to think of climbing is as a mix of mental, physical and emotional parts. You just can't just be stronger than most and expect to finish the route. Thi

One way to think of climbing is as a mix of mental, physical and emotional parts. You just can't just be stronger than most and expect to finish the route. This isn't so different from other sports, they just have a different mix. A golfer needs a lot of technical skill, and a bit of strength, plus some emotional strength, to get through those tough shots. Can you think of a sport that requires less physical strength? How about a very intense gamer? Emotional strength is a huge part of climbing. Think about it: you're 1,000+ feet in the air. The last piece of protection you have is over 10 feet below you - meaning, if you fall, you fall twice that distance. There's a slight chance that the protection that you've placed could in fact come off, as you fall, making you fall even farther (say, another 20 feet!). Can you keep it together, to make the move upwards, or are you going to freeze, thinking about what could happen? A fall of 20 feet isn't going to be fatal, but it could be pretty messy, if you get tangled in your rope. Now (in the case of the Dawn Wall), you've been working on this project for over 7 years. When do you say, "enough!" and move on? I mean, look at Tommy Caldwell - he mistakenly chopped his own finger off, which could have ended his career, but he kept going, and look what he accomplished!

curun1r 12y ago
> The last piece of protection you have is over 10 feet below you - meaning, if you fall, you fall twice that distance. Minor nit, but the ropes used in this type of climbing will be dynamic, not static. That means you'll fall the 10 feet to the last pro, that 10 feet again plus the stretch on the rope...more like 25-30 feet. I've only climbed lead in the gym, but those kinds of falls are still scary as hell. I can only imagine what it would be like that high up. Also, good call on the finger thing. I know the story is about him doing something that no one has ever done before and his injury shouldn't be the focus, but not calling it out is insane and I've yet to see one story include that tidbit. Anyone who's climbed knows just how important fingers are, it's hard for me to fathom climbing an indoor 5.13 without my index finger, let alone this many outdoor 5.13/5.14s. It's utterly amazing that he's continued to be an elite climber after his injury.
rimantas 12y ago
Regarding finger, it was even more intense: he chopped it of, got it back, and then chopped it off again, because it has limited dexterity and he was better off with a shorter digit than with the "whole" but not as functional.

curun1r 12y ago

> The last piece of protection you have is over 10 feet below you - meaning, if you fall, you fall twice that distance. Minor nit, but the ropes used in this type of climbing will be dynamic, not static. That means you'll fall the 10 feet to the last pro, that 10 feet again plus the stretch on the rope...more like 25-30 feet. I've only climbed lead in the gym, but those kinds of falls are still scary as hell. I can only imagine what it would be like that high up. Also, good call on the finger thing. I know the story is about him doing something that no one has ever done before and his injury shouldn't be the focus, but not calling it out is insane and I've yet to see one story include that tidbit. Anyone who's climbed knows just how important fingers are, it's hard for me to fathom climbing an indoor 5.13 without my index finger, let alone this many outdoor 5.13/5.14s. It's utterly amazing that he's continued to be an elite climber after his injury.

rimantas 12y ago

Regarding finger, it was even more intense: he chopped it of, got it back, and then chopped it off again, because it has limited dexterity and he was better off with a shorter digit than with the "whole" but not as functional.