All this serious oceanography research reminds me of something a little less serious but in the same scientific arena: 1) "And this is why Lochtefeld may soon

All this serious oceanography research reminds me of something a little less serious but in the same scientific arena: 1) "And this is why Lochtefeld may soon be hailed as some kind of prophet, for he has created one technology, and champions another, that has the potential to generate artificial waves even a surfer could love." http://archive.wired.com/wired/archive/7.08/kahuna.html http://archive.wired.com/wired/archive/7.08/kahuna.html 2) "The archdruid of surf has undergrad degrees in math and geophysics. His master's thesis - written in a house overlooking Sunset Beach on the North Shore of Oahu - is a 240-page work titled "Wave Transformation Over Coral Reefs." His PhD thesis is even thicker: a two-volume tome called "Sediment Transport and Inland Tidal Inlet Hydraulics." ... Black has cracked the code of the world's great breaks; they now lie dissected, quantified, and digitized in his computer, ready to be reconstituted anywhere - especially indoors. With the push of a button, his patented pool floors will morph into an almost infinite variety of shapes to produce steep 8-foot-high tubes that peel for 100 yards, or gentle 3-foot rollers that peak after 40, or waves that break to the left or right every 12 seconds, all under a transparent dome and available for a few bucks a ride." "Endless Summer (on Demand)" http://archive.wired.com/wired/archive/12.05/surfing.html http://archive.wired.com/wired/archive/12.05/surfing.html