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If I'm splitting cedar, white pine, or poplar - yes, I will split with a splitting axe - and I'll go through it almost as fast as the demo, ex-knotty wood. But
by ghshephard 13y ago
If I'm splitting cedar, white pine, or poplar - yes, I will split with a splitting axe - and I'll go through it almost as fast as the demo, ex-knotty wood. But, if I'm splitting larger (20"+) gnarly pine logs (which, for whatever reason, seems to be the only wood we collect off the crown land next to us), it's all about the maul, and, if I don't make any progress with that - it's the wedge+sledge hammer (which will split anything)
- dasil003 13y ago> I'll go through it almost as fast as the demo, ex-knotty wood. Yes, with a lot more effort. Did you see how lightly he was swinging it for the inner splits? Other commenters talking about the extreme accuracy, but that's easier when you are hitting it so lightly. Look, I don't regularly split wood, but I've spent several summers splitting wood before. And I've split unseasoned gnarly pine with a wedge and sledge. I am not completely ignorant on the subject. So my question is why you dismiss it outright just because the demo uses favorable wood? Is it really wise to assume it's just a gimmick before you even tried it?
- JoeAltmaier 13y agoClearly it works very, very well on some wood - the video proves that. So it deserves a place in my tool rack in the shed. Or it would, if it didn't cost hundreds of dollars! Maybe I'll make my own in the shop.
- ghshephard 13y agoYou're right, perhaps I'm a bit more cynical than I should be. What would have been nice is a A/B comparison of a normal axe and then a Leveraxe, showing how the two perform differently with different types of logs.