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New axe design uses lever action to make splitting wood easier
- baq 12y agoif you ever tried to use an axe, the video in the article will look like sorcery.
- adamcharnock 12y agoThat person can really swing an axe too. Very accurate.
- speeder 12y agoI never swung an axe (no need where I live, the only thing I did to prepare for this winter was... close the windows, I can still walk around the house with light clothes). And to me the thing STILL looks like sorcery... I have no idea how to hit the wood like that (I mean, the aim), but seeing each hit split the log is like... HOW???? It looks like the log split by itself.
- ghshephard 12y agoThat has to be some of most seasoned knot free wood ever split. I wonder how many logs he had to go through to find stuff that split that well - 20 logs for every one that did that? Sledge Hammer, Splitting Maul gets the job done 95% of the time. "Eccentric Axe" the other 5%. Well - maybe, 85% Splitting Maul 12% Eccentric Axe, and 3% splitting wedge (which typically has a torsion in it to create a turning effect to split the wood.) I would love to hear of an independent comparison of the Eccentric Axe versus a Splitting maul. The tire is a really great idea though.
- jtheory 12y agoFor those who aren't familiar: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Splitting_maul http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Splitting_maul -- but I have to laugh to notice that the "related" tools listed are Sledgehammer, Axe, and War hammer. You're offering solutions that take significant strength -- someone who can't safely swing a splitting maul or 20lb sledgehammer could still use this axe and get a much better result than a normal axe, I think. A maul is great until you get tired and hit a glancing blow; at which point you've got a heavy steel wedge flying off at high velocity, and you'd better be strong enough to hold on the other end of the handle. My brother and I split a lot of wood as teenagers; our family heated our house in NY with a wood-burning fireplace insert, using wood from the forested acre or so around the house. We definitely just powered through problematic logs, though -- e.g., splitting maul, and we'd swing it hard. We had a couple of steel wedges and a sledgehammer but hardly ever used them; normally it was faster to just beat the heck out of the knotted/wet/whatever log with the maul. I'm certainly curious to see how the eccentric axe handles bad wood -- though in any case I suspect it'd decently handle the same logs a maul would, but requiring less strength. You could always fall back to wedges plus a light sledge (and patience) for the really nasty logs.
- JackFr 12y agoWhen your using a good size maul, you really should let gravity do the work for most of the logs. You really should only have to swing through on really tough ones. (That isn't to say you don't need some strength -- picking up a heavy maul over your head is not easy.) I split a lot of wood in high school, while working for a tree cutting company. After half a day of splitting with a 15-lb head, steel handled maul you'd be unable to make a fist from the shock your hands took. We used to have wood splitting competitions, in which you'd pick logs for your opponents. I still remember one exceptionally knotty piece of cherry that a guy who I was working with found for me. While he split all his logs, the maul would just bounce of that log.
- jtheory 12y agoI don't disagree -- esp. with decent logs, the strength you need for a maul is more about safety when things go wrong than about swinging it; i.e., strength grants control rather than brute force. The head is heavy and out on a long handle specifically so you can apply a lot of force just starting up high and letting it drop to the wood, but that works against you if you miss your target and it goes flying off to the side. And of course, if you've been at it for a while and are tiring, or you're less strong to begin with, aim suffers. > ...the maul would just bounce of that log I remember a few like that! I'll bet it was also pretty green and/or water logged... that would have that effect.
- blhack 12y agoThe war hammer looks a lot like this tool: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/forestry-tools/hookaroon/ http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/fore... That's probably why it's in the related section. If you want to go down a long, long rabbit hole of amazing videos, I recommend starting here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvJ8Q1vAdGA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvJ8Q1vAdGA Which is an example of how to use this tool.
- radiorental 12y agoIndeed, and that looks like birch. In my experience that splits if you look at it sideways. Instead of a tyre I use a bungee & chain. That allows me to hold a wider range of log sizes upright. This design intriques me the most, seems effortless http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=111_1363524786 http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=111_1363524786
- dfc 12y agoThat is the first liveleak video I have ever seen where someone does not die. Is liveleak becoming a general purpose video site?
- flavor8 12y ago+1 for mauls. Why people use axes to split wood I don't know. I have a 10lb maul which _usually_ will split logs (even large rounds) on first strike assuming the wood is reasonably well seasoned. I used to use an axe + sledgehammer/wedge for the tricky stuff, but it's a ton more work that way.
- stcredzero 12y agoYet another way of storing human muscle power, then releasing it all at once.
- dasil003 12y agoIt's a demo. The point is that it applies the force more effectively to a splitting motion. I don't know why you would insist on using a heavier maul requiring much more effort by default. Use the maul for the really knotted stuff where you need more vertical force applied somewhere in the middle, but defaulting to it seems silly.
- ghshephard 12y agoIf I'm splitting cedar, white pine, or poplar - yes, I will split with a splitting axe - and I'll go through it almost as fast as the demo, ex-knotty wood. But, if I'm splitting larger (20"+) gnarly pine logs (which, for whatever reason, seems to be the only wood we collect off the crown land next to us), it's all about the maul, and, if I don't make any progress with that - it's the wedge+sledge hammer (which will split anything)
- dasil003 12y ago> I'll go through it almost as fast as the demo, ex-knotty wood. Yes, with a lot more effort. Did you see how lightly he was swinging it for the inner splits? Other commenters talking about the extreme accuracy, but that's easier when you are hitting it so lightly. Look, I don't regularly split wood, but I've spent several summers splitting wood before. And I've split unseasoned gnarly pine with a wedge and sledge. I am not completely ignorant on the subject. So my question is why you dismiss it outright just because the demo uses favorable wood? Is it really wise to assume it's just a gimmick before you even tried it?
- JoeAltmaier 12y agoClearly it works very, very well on some wood - the video proves that. So it deserves a place in my tool rack in the shed. Or it would, if it didn't cost hundreds of dollars! Maybe I'll make my own in the shop.
- ghshephard 12y agoYou're right, perhaps I'm a bit more cynical than I should be. What would have been nice is a A/B comparison of a normal axe and then a Leveraxe, showing how the two perform differently with different types of logs.
- pmorici 12y agoIf you are serious about splitting wood you should just skip the axe altogether and go for one of these... http://youtu.be/2eengn9eNQw?t=2m14s http://youtu.be/2eengn9eNQw?t=2m14s
- fit2rule 12y agoI thought it was already common knowledge among the axe-wielding cognescenti that the way you chop wood, without tiring yourself out completely, is that you add a little 'twist' to your down-swing, just as the blade makes contact, that has the same leverage effect - albeit with a 'normal' blade. I dunno, I guess I just learned that little twist from my uncle and grandfather, and never really thought it was so magical. Not sure how I feel about the safety of a mighty wood-cutting sharp blade being off-balance on the downswing - sure, the guy in the video has a fairly safe setup, but if you don't have the luxury (i.e. are a consumer who just bought one of these Wonder Axes) of having a safety rig, the potential for mis-direction and glancing blows from the axe being redirected towards the user seems pretty high ..
- hrkristian 12y agoI've spent nearly every winter growing up swinging axes, and I cringed a bit when I saw him strike branches. For the most part the axe does a wonderful job against anything, and that guy has ridiculously good aim, but anyone who have at some point been bad at chopping wood probably knows those twists to the side can do a real number on your wrists and hands. It seems to happen quite a bit. It's still an amazing innovation, and I hope to be able to pick one up as a gift. The article is sadly not very informative.
- claudius 12y agoI have no idea about axes in general, so please acquire a large piece of silicon dioxide before reading on. That said, it seems that the problem with traditional axes is the large amount of friction from penetrating the wood. This requires a firm grip of the handle and long swings to induce sufficient kinetic energy in the head of the axe. With the rotational design, much less energy is needed, allowing for a) a loose grip of the handle and b) shorter swings, which in turn allow for better aim. But, as ghshephard wrote, some additional/independent information might be very nice.
- StavrosK 12y agoSilicon oxide? Take it with a grain of... quartz?
- graeham 12y agoSand. Probably meant a grain of sodium chloride! :)
- claudius 12y agoMy apologies :)
- thaumasiotes 12y agoSand is silicon dioxide. Quartz is the same stuff. But if for whatever reason you have to acquire a "large piece"... quartz is much prettier ;)
- bprater 12y agoKnotted wood is much more challenging to split. Even with a hydraulic splitter, chunks of wood with lots of branches can stall a machine pressing with tons of force. Great demo, but unrealistic unless you only chop beautiful limbless tall oaks.
- cam_l 12y agoYeah, that wood looked like stiff butter. I used to split ironbark logs to sell for firewood. Your aim had to be pretty accurate, first marking a groove with an axe and then a few good hits with a log splitter. If you hit a knot the bloody thing would bounce back like it was made of rubber.
- dfc 12y agoI think I would rather split birch than oak.
- jimmaswell 12y agoI don't think they've ever stalled mine. I've always liked how it's like a brute force analogy on those things. Just keep pushing until it breaks, with literal tons of force.
- unfamiliar 12y agoBe careful though, if you end up bending the shaft they are useless.
- darkarmani 12y ago> Knotted wood is much more challenging to split. Isn't that true for a traditional axe as well? Splitting is the dark is harder as well as splitting in the rain.
- jotm 12y agoThis would hurt sooo many newbies... You're much better off with a normal axe that won't try to twist and jump out of your hand every single time. For wood cutting, the size of the axe head matters a lot - too small and it doesn't have enough force, too large and it gets stuck very easily. The length of the handle is also important - you'll fare much better with longer ones, but the longer it is, the harder it is to aim and control. As with anything, practice is key, but I'm pretty sure you don't want to start with this axe.
- KhalilK 12y agoI am most impressed by the use of the tire to keep the wood upright and positioned.
- lafar6502 12y agoFor me the greatest part of this innovation was putting the log into a car tire.
- dirktheman 12y agoAccurate axeman, but with that kind of neat log I guess you can have the same results with a regular axe and a good technique. It's very hard to improve something that has been around for the past 35,000 years, I guess. Maybe they're better of working on that car tire so that it can accomodate logs of different diameters.
- binarymax 12y agoI, as well as others, have a history of strained wrists when splitting wood with a traditional axe. Clicking through to their website they recommend a loose grip when the head is about to strike, allowing for the rotation to take place. This makes sense because before you'd need a strong grip to hold onto your axe to make sure it doesn't slip out of your hands when giving a swing strong enough to split. Since you are swinging much more gently, this may actually work! At the very least I am glad that I don't need to split wood these days otherwise I'd give this a try in a second.
- jakobe 12y agoLosening your grip just as the axe hits the wood also works for normal axes. Makes chopping a lot easier on the wrist.
- stcredzero 12y agoAren't there materials that become semi-fluid when a shock is applied to them? (The opposite of your non-Newtonian cornstarch fluid.) How about steel handled mauls covered with something like that?
- deleted 12y ago[deleted]
- marktangotango 12y agoI'm amazed how many of you have used an axe. Nothing to add, you all have said it all :)
- UweSchmidt 12y agoAlternative title: "New axe design uses lever action to make splitting wood a lot easier" "Uses physics" sounds like "Stand back: I'm going to try science" to me.
- rplnt 12y agoAnd it suggests that physics isn't involved when it comes to traditional axes.
- dfc 12y agoWhen I read "uses physics" my grumpy morning attitude thought "Sorcery would have been cooler than Physics." How else does one split wood if not with physics? As someone pointed out elsewhere the article is not well written, 15 seconds on the product's homepage and you get a better idea of what is happening.
- dang 12y agoMe too. Thanks for the better title. We'll change it.
- emiliobumachar 12y agoThis is one of those inventions, like the hot-air baloon, for which we had all the prerequisite technology for ages.
- easy_rider 12y agoThis is really cool. I've never split more than a couple dozen logs in my life but Ray Mears teached me to wedge the blade to the side on impact. This seems to emulate these physics. I'm not a big guy, and it's a pretty hard motion to get in to when you're swinging down as hard as possible. This seems like a very capable survival/bushcrafting tool for less accomplished wood cutters. tl;dr I wood buy.
- dfc 12y agoThis is a terrible survival/bushcraft tool. It is big and heavy which could be acceptable if it was not single purpose. My fellow Americans please do not hold this post against Ray Mears. He is rather awesome. I am at a loss when it comes to thinking of his American equivalent. We do not have a nice guy survival expert. Anyone I can think of is not as famous and certainly not as kind spirited. The best way I can describe him is Roy Underhill from the Woodwright's Shop does bushcraft/survival skills in a Red coat.
- easy_rider 12y agoCorrect me if i'm wrong, but wouldn't this allow for a smaller force lever, because the axe multiplies the forces and does not rely on the user to swing hard enough with the right technique?
- dfc 12y agoI don't want to "correct you" but if I had to correct you about something it would not be on swinging technique or the physics of a lever. I do not think that it is a good idea to identify the best wood splitting tool in a laboratory environment and hang a ribbon around it that says "best survival/bushcraft tool." Obviously all survival situations are different but there does seem to be a certain mobility component in all survival situations. This thing is 3ft(90cm) long and 5.5lbs(2.5kg). Not my first choice to carry that up or down a rocky incline or beat a path through thick brush with it awkwardly strapped to my back. However you might be able to talk me into the extra weight and bulk if it did more than one thing. Unfortunately this thing does not do anything else, but don't take my word for it "VIPUKIRVES™ is a special tool designed for chopping firewood, not appropriate for carpentry [AKA felling and hewing trees] or for use as a striking tool."[1] I love the UNIX philosophy of do one thing and do it well, but you will notice that in resource constrained environments the 100+ binaries from coreutils are provided by a single small executable: busybox. Tangent: When I was reading the description of the ax I thought it was strange that the handle was birch instead of the hickory that I expected. I was reminded of one of my favorite Ted Talks, "Have Broad Ax Will Travel", by Roy Underhill. The handle is not hickory, because, according to Roy, "they [Europeans] put their mountains on wrong, we thought ahead because we are Americans."[2] [1]: FAQ #3: http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm [2]: Skip to 10:00 if you just want to know which direction to orient your mountains. But the entire video is definitely worth a full viewing. http://youtu.be/Au1TbIyLcPU http://youtu.be/Au1TbIyLcPU
- zomg 12y agothere's nothing new or innovative here. people have been doing this for years... it really depends on the KIND of wood you're chopping. this guy has it down to an art: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vThcK-idm0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vThcK-idm0
- linhat 12y agoThis axe looks really awesome, physics for the win. Also, instead of using an old rubber tire, I highly recommend building a variable length, tensioning chain, much like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrLiSMQGHvY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrLiSMQGHvY Makes chopping wood so much more fun. And then, there is also the stikkan: http://www.stikkan.com/ http://www.stikkan.com/ Perfect to hang it up next to your fireplace to do some more fine grained wood chopping, cutting larger pieces into smaller ones.
- deleted 12y ago[deleted]
- jobu 12y agoIt amazes me when someone makes improvements to a job as old as splitting wood. Millions (billions?) of people have been doing it for thousands of years, and there's still room for improvement.
- wmil 12y agoThis is really a specialty tool. Normal axes were also used to fell trees, demolish wood structures, and occasionally personal defense. I'm guess that it's less useful if you're chopping against the grain or if you want precision.
- PeterisP 12y agoChopping firewood takes up so much labor, that there have always been specialised tools, there is no such thing as a "normal axe" - an axe for felling trees is different than an axe for splitting firewood, there are differences in the shape, width and weight of the axe head and you wouldn't want use one for other if you're doing it more than once a year; and a carpenter would use a different type of axe(s) than those. And that's not a modern invention, it goes back for centuries. I'd guess that even stone age flint tools have been specialized in similar ways.
- ggchappell 12y agoTrue. It's also worth nothing that axes intended as weapons are also very specialized. Indeed, there are multiple types, depending on just how you want to kill people with your axe.
- tzury 12y agoThis is the page you need to read! http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm
- dang 12y agoYes. We changed it.
- barkingcat 12y agoA picture of the axe http://www.vipukirves.fi/images/isokuva_kirves1.jpg http://www.vipukirves.fi/images/isokuva_kirves1.jpg
- vacri 12y agoInteresting that it's not just eccentric, but that it also has a guard on the blade itself, to prevent it going too far into the wood.
- jeffbarr 12y agoI bought a Vipukirves axe early this year. I have a wood-fired pizza oven in my backyard and use small, nicely split pieces of wood in order to retain some control over the fire. Before buying the axe I used a four-sided wedge (basically an elongated pyramid) and a sledgehammer for splitting. So, how does this axe perform? Overall, I am very happy with it and proudly show it off at every opportunity. After spending some time learning how to use it, I can report that, for some types and conditions of wood and with the right grip on the handle, it truly does split wood in the manner shown in the video. As noted in the other comments, certain types of wood are easier to split than others. After my pizza oven was finished, I somewhat foolishly bought a 1/2 cord of apple wood from the apple-growing region of Washington state. This wood is incredibly dense and has proven difficult to split by any means, even after 3 years of seasoning. The splitting issue is made worse by the overall knottiness of the wood. I also bought a 1/2 cord of mixed wood from a local supplier. The axe is at its best on straight, dry, knot-free pine, oak, cedar, and so forth. The vertical motion is translated into horizontal motion milliseconds after the blade of the axe penetrates the wood and the split-off portion flies to the side with explosive force, often landing 8 to 10 feet away. It took me an hour or two to learn to use the axe properly, with a relaxed grip to allow the head to rotate after it strikes the wood. Wearing gloves (recommended in any case) can make this even easier. The blade of the axe is not razor sharp and does not require sharpening or other maintenance.
- dhughes 12y agoIt also easier to spit wood when it's cold out -10C to -20C it seems to crack better. I used to hate fall as a kid when wood splitting season began. Pneumatic splitters are great but slow. You learn to hate hard wood when splitting but it's great to burn. An old joke: I was 10 years-old before I learned my name wasn't "Get wood!"
- js2 12y agoIt was because of my father that from the ages of seven to fifteen, I thought that my name was Jesus Christ and my brother, Russell, thought that his name was Dammit. "Dammit, will you stop all that noise?" And, "Jesus Christ, sit down!" One day, I'm out playing in the rain, and my father yelled, "Dammit will you get back in here!" I said, "Dad, I'm Jesus Christ!" -- Bill Cosby
- johnobrien1010 12y agoFrom the website, it looks like it costs $266. I think you'd have to being chopping a lot of wood for it to be worth it to get that expensive of an ax, even if it is better.
- josefresco 12y agoA lot of folks here are claiming that the type of wood being split makes a huge difference and it's true, however... To address this the video should show him using both a conventional axe, and his version on the same wood. Apologies if he does this later in the video as I didn't watch the entire thing.
- Theodores 12y agoThis famous quotation kind of needs an update: "Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe." - Some Famous American Bloke
- poulsbohemian 12y agoAbraham Lincoln, as I recall.
- viggity 12y agocool axe. FWIW, an easier/more efficient way of keeping the wood together while spiting it is a bungie cord. Using a tire only works if you have a relatively big logs.
- arca_vorago 12y agoThis looks dangerous to me. I grew up in the mountains, and consider them my home. (The kind of place where the nearest walmart is an hour and a half drive away, and everyone shares their elk kills and logs and chops their own wood) One of the most dangerous things an axe can do is go sideways on you on the hit, that sideways rebound or if the log falls away follow through can mean an axe in the foot or leg for someone who has been chopping for a few hours and is tired. Also, proper drying of logs before splitting can't always be done, and that log look very dry and doesn't look knotty. Honestly when I chop wood I keep three tools near, the normal sliceaxe, a skinny thin and fast one for easy stuff, a larger wedge with splitter arms (http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/dockside-chat/282042d1353172167-splitting-logs-1.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/dockside-chat/282042...) and a normal handless wedge and hammer for the really hard stuff. Just thought I'd share a little bit of info from a guy who spent many hours in his youth chopping logs. If I was getting paid, I did sometimes cheat and use a gas powered splitter... if you have two people working it the throughput can be much higher than two people splitting normally.
- agarden 12y agoThe manufacturer's website says that the axe is specifically designed to mitigate those risks. > The Leveraxe also does not bounce wildly as might happen with traditional axe. The axe changes the kinetic energy to rotational motion and is much easier to control. It is much rarer that you would totally miss the log, because the sideways wing on top of the axe and the stopping knob beneath it ensure the axe will catch the log even if the striking edge would miss it. > The length of Leveraxe handle (90 cm) is longer than in traditional axes. This provides more kinetic energy but is also an important safety feature. Even if the axe would continue past the log the trajectory will guide it to hit the ground before you instead of hitting your legs. Agreed that his wood looks much drier than what one normally encounters.
- iamthepieman 12y agoFor splitting wood from a fallen tree or cleaning up around the property a regular axe and splitting maul are fine. When I've had to split enough wood to burn for the winter I always just rent a hitch-mounted hydraulic splitter. 60 bucks and I can do 5 cords in day. This tool could possibly take the place a of a splitting maul but a great advantage of the maul is it can be used to split knotty wood that doesn't have straight grain. It takes a bunch of swings and force but does get the job done. With the wide head of the Vipukirv it wouldn't be able to get down to the center of a half-split log.
- 3pt14159 12y agoI needed to break up a bunch of concrete back in the day, so I bought a medium duty jackhammer. Later, I discovered the joy of easily splitting wood.
- Zigurd 12y agoThis makes me want to instrument my wood splitting. I suspect that I will find that improving the fast splitting is less important than avoiding or improving the outcomes for the toughest pieces to split. A bit like finding that a faster cache that doesn't reduce cache misses or the cost of cache misses can disappoint when measuring overall performance.
- ISL 12y agoThis axe isn't the only one that can deliver such a video. Good wood and a proper splitting axe allows similar results. The tire trick, or a bungee cord, can allow big gains in speed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvuibTcEdmg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvuibTcEdmg
- ricardobeat 12y agoThat is quick, but still the axe gets lodged in the wood at least four times in that video.
- yukichan 12y agoThis may be an unpopular reply, but splitting fire wood sounds like you're going to be making an open fire. Open fires are a danger to your health: http://www.samharris.org/blog/item/the-fireplace-delusion http://www.samharris.org/blog/item/the-fireplace-delusion > "The unhappy truth about burning wood has been scientifically established to a moral certainty: That nice, cozy fire in your fireplace is bad for you. It is bad for your children. It is bad for your neighbors and their children." http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/healtheffects.html http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/healtheffects.html > "Smoke is made up of a complex mixture of gases and particles produced when wood and other organic matter burn. A major health threat from smoke comes from fine particles (also called particle pollution, particulate matter, or PM). These microscopic particles can get into your eyes and respiratory system, where they can cause health problems such as burning eyes, runny nose, and illnesses such as bronchitis. In addition to particle pollution, wood smoke contains several toxic harmful air pollutants including: benzene, formaldhyde, acrolein and methane."
- john_b 12y agoOpen fireplaces are mostly used for decoration, not heat. The heat transfer characteristics of a traditional stone open fireplace are rather poor. Most of the heat escapes upward through the chimney, which has to be sized large enough to prevent the smoke problem you mention from becoming noticeable to the inhabitants. Depending on the fire's temperature, much of the heat that does make it into the house is due to radiation, not convection. For fireplaces-as-heating-systems, rather than fireplaces-as-decoration, closed designs like these are more common: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N6cx8wcRWuU/Uay6KyIgGTI/AAAAAAAAEkk/Yxjh11STr_k/s640/White+Wash+The+Fireplace-005.JPG http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N6cx8wcRWuU/Uay6KyIgGTI/AAAAAAAAEk... http://www.jushistone.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/fireplace-stone-hearth-7.jpg http://www.jushistone.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/firepla...
- untothebreach 12y agoEvery winter, myself and a group of ~15 others hike out to a 3-walled cabin and usually spend 3-4 days there, hiking and generally enjoying the outdoors. It is about as rustic as you can get, and with the temp getting down to -20F this past winter, being able to quickly cut and split firewood is important (you know, to survive the night...). Needless to say, I will be starting a pool to buy one of these axes this year...
- adambware 12y agoSuch beauty in the simplicity of this concept!
- joryhatton 12y agoFirst question of the FAQ... "Question 1: Can VIPUKIRVES™ be used by a woman?"
- unfamiliar 12y ago"In practice, everybody who has tried splitting wood with a traditional axe knows that it takes a lot of power to penetrate and split the wood. Consequently, women and children may have serious trouble operating the traditional axe." As a physically weak male specimen this amuses me very much.
- jontro 12y agoThis statement and the faq entry seems so out of touch with reality...
- 3rd3 12y agoThat’s a typical tool one might find on Cool Tools: http://kk.org/cooltools/ http://kk.org/cooltools/ They recently published a book wich is a lot of fun to browse through on a lazy afternoon.
- micro_cam 12y agoNeat idea and i'd love to try it but i'd need to see it side by side with a good maul which makes use of physics in a few ways. Especially with dry lodge pole pine I can do about as well as the guy in the video does with my six pound maul and I'm our of practice though I split a lot of wood as a kid. On a related note, I wonder if anyone on hacker news has a favorite wood stove...I'm really intrigued by the new efficient, low emission ones but they are costly and in depth reviews are sparse.
- wcfields 12y agoAnd for what is probably the least safe way to split wood, http://www.thestickler.com/ http://www.thestickler.com/ It attaches to your car-axle and is a giant screw that splits wood.
- vanderZwan 12y agoAs a left-handed person: great, another lethal tool optimised for right-handed people and therefore more unwieldy and dangerous for us.
- rubberbandage 12y agoNo, they address that in their FAQ. They found no difference in use for right or left-handed people. Hooray from a fellow leftie!
- vanderZwan 12y agoOh, that's good to hear! A quick CTRL+F for "left-handed" did not give any results, but I should have just looked for "left"
- kaib 12y agoCan you elaborate on this? Having split a lot of wood it's not clear this design is affected by handedness.
- vanderZwan 12y agoMy immediate and apparently wrong assumption was that since it is asymmetrical, the improvement of the design was somehow tied to an optimisation for handedness, which in practice is always for right-handedness.
- jeffbarr 12y agoI should have mentioned this in my original comment. I am left-handed and this axe, unlike the vast majority of hand and power tools, works just fine for me and doesn't emit those all too familiar lethal vibes.
- paul_f 12y agoYou know what really annoys me? People are now so used to gas starters or starter logs, that they don't split their wood at all. Just pile up the whole pieces and try to start a fire. Then fight it for three hours and end up with smoke a bunch of half burnt wood.
- VaedaStrike 12y agoIs it just me or does it really look like an incisor? I wonder if similar physical principles are at work in making their appearance similar.
- jhallenworld 12y agoOff topic perhaps, but I switched from oil/steam to gas forced hot air last year. Between the 96% efficient furnace and new gas hot water heater (compared with the 75% oil / steam with super inefficient continuous hot water attachment) and the fracking boom, I can report that gas is much, much cheaper: for me $3500 -> $700 / year for a 1100 sq/ft apartment near Boston. http://theenergycollective.com/lindsay-wilson/307486/heating-cost-comparison-oil-heat-vs-gas-heat-vs-electric-heat-prices http://theenergycollective.com/lindsay-wilson/307486/heating... A heat pump with ground heat-sink may be a better long term option, but it's much more expensive. Also I'm pretty sure the gas is more efficient when considering the power plant and transmission line losses. Even better would be a home gas co-generation plant. Honda has such a thing, but again not cheap: http://world.honda.com/powerproducts-technology/cogeneration/ http://world.honda.com/powerproducts-technology/cogeneration...
- ggchappell 12y agoThis is an interesting idea. It's amazing to think that a tool like the axe -- which has been around for millennia -- can still be improved. [OTOH, I've split a fair amount of wood. And I'd have to say that anyone who thinks splitting wood with an axe is a good way to produce fuel for the primary heat source for a house, is pretty much insane. It's exhausting work. Get a powered splitter for goodness sake. :-) ]
- psykovsky 12y agoBut that wood is the kind that will heat you 2 times. You don't get that with a powered splitter. ;)
- johngalt 12y agoInteresting cross between an axe and a froe. Gives you the levering action of a froe in one motion.
- sbierwagen 12y agoLeveraxe is faster than a hydraulic splitter. Faster than a small one, maybe. The larger ones are pretty damn quick, as you'd want them to, for the price: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knZkc_vzGUE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knZkc_vzGUE
- masklinn 12y agoThat thing is awe-inspiring, the spec sheet quotes 16 tonnes in high-power mode (split speed of 2.6s) and 7.5 tonnes in high-speed mode (split speed of 1.85s), with a cut length of 68cm
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- GalacticDomin8r 12y agoIt's pretty easy to known who really knows how to split wood with any kind of axe. You start on the outside working your way in splitting off sections that look like they present the best chance to avoid a knot. Anything other than that is snake oil and bluster. And no, I'm not buying one of these axes, a traditional splitting axe works very well. I don't see how the featured axe could offer anything beyond the traditional since you aren't constrained to a plumb blow as the marketing would have you to believe.
- praeivis 12y agoAfter awhile your hands will hurt. For few choppings per day maybe not bad, but price...
- orky56 12y agoThe key here is that the axe splits the wood rather than forcefully gets into the wood. Not sure how this is different? Try turning the wood on its side and see how the axe works then. By striking it parallel to the wood structure, it separates the wood from the point of impact. If one were to strike it orthogonal to the wood structure, this would be pretty pointless.
- mowfask 12y ago25cm birch logs surely are fun to split. With any kind of axe. We use to chop 1m (~3feet) logs of a lot more compact wood (oak, beech), and this looks like a toy to me. Has anyone seen it used on more serious logs?
- anactofgod 12y agoArchimedes would approve.
- kofejnik 12y agoYou can get the same effect using an angled strike with a regular axe, here's some Russian dude demoing it with a big fresh pine log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=OsVvCQLx5QI#t=304 https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Os...
- dynofuz 12y agoLooks like this is more primitive knowledge being rediscovered. Note how cavemen axes were stones tied to the side of a stick. http://www.cbsnews.com/news/evidence-uncovered-of-worlds-oldest-violent-argument/ http://www.cbsnews.com/news/evidence-uncovered-of-worlds-old...