2 ms·
You kind of get this feeling while surfing. When you have clean, calm sets - every so often, like every few hours depending, there's a big, bad ass outside tha
by rjurney 17y ago
You kind of get this feeling while surfing. When you have clean, calm sets - every so often, like every few hours depending, there's a big, bad ass outside that comes and if you stay where you are, it will break on you - so everyone scrambles to paddle out towards it before it gets to you. If you get outside in time you get to turn around and catch it early for a nice long ride.
Sometimes you'll have orderly sets for hours, and then there's one that has combined into a big, bad ass wave twice as powerful as any other. Its great to see.