I went back and re-read the paragraph. My understanding of it was that the author opined that things like artisan foods were a sincere expression, an output fro

I went back and re-read the paragraph. My understanding of it was that the author opined that things like artisan foods were a sincere expression, an output from a human being who believed truly that this was something that they were doing for themselves as opposed to say doing it to appear "cool". Now, I don't personally claim to have any special intuition of those who make artisan foods considering I have never interacted with and figured out why people do such things. I presume they like the rest of humanity have a wide range of reasons.