3 ms·

Any caveats on running OS X on this setup? Thanks for sharing, btw. :)

aroch 13y ago
I run 2 x 30" (2560x1440) and 1 21"(1920x1200) IPS monitors (all DVI). I have 3 Samsung 540 256GB SSD, 2 WD RED 7200RPM 3TB drives (with lifetime warranty!) in the slots. 1. You should probably jump up to 750W PSU (Which is what I did in the end) just for a little more wiggle room. I also moved to small footprint RAM to fit under my cooler -- 4 x 8GB sticks. 2. Use Clover not Chameleon as your bootloader. It's EFI emulation is much better and will give a better OOTB experience (less fiddling with Kexts) 3. You might want to use a different mobo, the Realtec989 can behave strangely under OSX (popping / random interrupts) but this only happened on one install for me and a fresh install cleared it up. 4. Win7 will not install if the drive isn't device 1 or if there are HFS drives around (I have no idea why, seeing as it installs fine on my MBP -- there must be some EFI magic). 5. Fuck any SSD not made by Intel or Samsung -- make sure to use one of the Trim Enablers on the OSX side of things. 6. Don't OC the graphics card unless you're prepared to do some debugging under all OSes you plan on running. 7. OC in increments for the CPU -- test under all OSes before ratcheting up 8. Don't use Win8 with HFS drives, it does stupid shit to their metadata and headers. 9. I didn't bother setting up WiFi since my apartment is wired, but it shouldn't be too hard. Use the included wireless card and there are drivers out there that are confirmed to work.
- imissmyjuno 13y ago
  > Fuck any SSD not made by Intel or Samsung Why?
  - voltagex_ 13y ago
    I suspect this is a hangover from when drive firmware/chipsets were terrible - Samsung and Intel have been ahead of the curve.
  - wcfields 13y ago
    Something Awful's Hardware/Software forum has a huge thread on SSDs. The thread name is pretty explicit of what NOT to use: "The SSD Megathread - Don't buy OCZ or Crucial drives, read the OP!" http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3454120 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=345... To summarize if you don't have an account: I don't want to read anything just tell me what SSD to buy! (last updated: 07/25/2013) The Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe is consistently the best value, get a 240GB or larger drive if you can for best results. The non-Deluxe version uses slightly slower memory, but the Deluxe is usually only ~$5 more expensive so get that unless the non-Deluxe is on sale. See the lists below for more options: Great, rock-solid drives: * Samsung 840 Pro * Intel SSD 520 (probably not worth the price premium, discontinued) * SanDisk Extreme * Intel SSD 330 (3K-endurance memory) Good value drives: * Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe (best value, the non-Deluxe version is only a bit slower, but also usually not much cheaper) * Intel SSD 335 (1.5K-endurance memory, 240GB+ only) * Samsung 840 non-Pro (1K-endurance memory, 250GB+ only, 120GB version may only last ~3.5 years) BAD drives to avoid: * OCZ drives have very poor reliability, probably due to insufficient memory validation. * Kingston drives seem to have reliability issues, perhaps also due to insufficient memory validation? * ADATA drives also seem to have issues due to memory validation. * Crucial drives are plagued by firmware issues. The M4 has had a lot of problems but seems to have stabilized (but is a poor value today so shouldn't be purchased), the M500 is brand-new and has known issues, and the V4 is the worst SSD on the market (far slower than an HDD). * Plextor drives benchmark well but have poorly-tuned firmware. * SATA300 and other older/last-gen drives are not as reliable as modern drives. NEW drives to avoid until they mature: * Samsung 840 EVO (potential to be the best SSD) * SanDisk Extreme II (brand new, lots of potential) * SanDisk Ultra Plus (would make a decent low-end drive, but isn't usually much cheaper than the other faster drives in the "Good" list above such as the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos) * Seagate 600 and 600 Pro (new LAMD-based drives, seem to have potential) * Crucial M500 (960GB model is interesting, but M500 has firmware issues, Crucial has a BAD history resolving those) * Corsair Neutron (new LAMD-based drive with the same name and better performance, how to tell apart from old slower Corsair Neutron?)
    - AsymetricCom 13y ago
      Funny, my 520 got flaky after 6 months and failed after 2 years.
- mng2 13y ago
  >2 WD RED 7200RPM 3TB drives (with lifetime warranty!) I thought Reds were ~5400 RPM ("Intellipower") with a three year warranty.

aroch 13y ago

I run 2 x 30" (2560x1440) and 1 21"(1920x1200) IPS monitors (all DVI). I have 3 Samsung 540 256GB SSD, 2 WD RED 7200RPM 3TB drives (with lifetime warranty!) in the slots. 1. You should probably jump up to 750W PSU (Which is what I did in the end) just for a little more wiggle room. I also moved to small footprint RAM to fit under my cooler -- 4 x 8GB sticks. 2. Use Clover not Chameleon as your bootloader. It's EFI emulation is much better and will give a better OOTB experience (less fiddling with Kexts) 3. You might want to use a different mobo, the Realtec989 can behave strangely under OSX (popping / random interrupts) but this only happened on one install for me and a fresh install cleared it up. 4. Win7 will not install if the drive isn't device 1 or if there are HFS drives around (I have no idea why, seeing as it installs fine on my MBP -- there must be some EFI magic). 5. Fuck any SSD not made by Intel or Samsung -- make sure to use one of the Trim Enablers on the OSX side of things. 6. Don't OC the graphics card unless you're prepared to do some debugging under all OSes you plan on running. 7. OC in increments for the CPU -- test under all OSes before ratcheting up 8. Don't use Win8 with HFS drives, it does stupid shit to their metadata and headers. 9. I didn't bother setting up WiFi since my apartment is wired, but it shouldn't be too hard. Use the included wireless card and there are drivers out there that are confirmed to work.

imissmyjuno 13y ago
> Fuck any SSD not made by Intel or Samsung Why?
- voltagex_ 13y ago
  I suspect this is a hangover from when drive firmware/chipsets were terrible - Samsung and Intel have been ahead of the curve.
- wcfields 13y ago
  Something Awful's Hardware/Software forum has a huge thread on SSDs. The thread name is pretty explicit of what NOT to use: "The SSD Megathread - Don't buy OCZ or Crucial drives, read the OP!" http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3454120 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=345... To summarize if you don't have an account: I don't want to read anything just tell me what SSD to buy! (last updated: 07/25/2013) The Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe is consistently the best value, get a 240GB or larger drive if you can for best results. The non-Deluxe version uses slightly slower memory, but the Deluxe is usually only ~$5 more expensive so get that unless the non-Deluxe is on sale. See the lists below for more options: Great, rock-solid drives: * Samsung 840 Pro * Intel SSD 520 (probably not worth the price premium, discontinued) * SanDisk Extreme * Intel SSD 330 (3K-endurance memory) Good value drives: * Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe (best value, the non-Deluxe version is only a bit slower, but also usually not much cheaper) * Intel SSD 335 (1.5K-endurance memory, 240GB+ only) * Samsung 840 non-Pro (1K-endurance memory, 250GB+ only, 120GB version may only last ~3.5 years) BAD drives to avoid: * OCZ drives have very poor reliability, probably due to insufficient memory validation. * Kingston drives seem to have reliability issues, perhaps also due to insufficient memory validation? * ADATA drives also seem to have issues due to memory validation. * Crucial drives are plagued by firmware issues. The M4 has had a lot of problems but seems to have stabilized (but is a poor value today so shouldn't be purchased), the M500 is brand-new and has known issues, and the V4 is the worst SSD on the market (far slower than an HDD). * Plextor drives benchmark well but have poorly-tuned firmware. * SATA300 and other older/last-gen drives are not as reliable as modern drives. NEW drives to avoid until they mature: * Samsung 840 EVO (potential to be the best SSD) * SanDisk Extreme II (brand new, lots of potential) * SanDisk Ultra Plus (would make a decent low-end drive, but isn't usually much cheaper than the other faster drives in the "Good" list above such as the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos) * Seagate 600 and 600 Pro (new LAMD-based drives, seem to have potential) * Crucial M500 (960GB model is interesting, but M500 has firmware issues, Crucial has a BAD history resolving those) * Corsair Neutron (new LAMD-based drive with the same name and better performance, how to tell apart from old slower Corsair Neutron?)
  - AsymetricCom 13y ago
    Funny, my 520 got flaky after 6 months and failed after 2 years.
mng2 13y ago
>2 WD RED 7200RPM 3TB drives (with lifetime warranty!) I thought Reds were ~5400 RPM ("Intellipower") with a three year warranty.