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> ...there's IMO a simple trick to make the lighting much warmer... Gross. That orange light is nasty. Light that's the color of the noontime sun during a clea
by simoncion 3mo ago
> ...there's IMO a simple trick to make the lighting much warmer...
Gross. That orange light is nasty. Light that's the color of the noontime sun during a clear day is far superior. People say "Oh, it looks so sterile and clinical!". I say "Jeeze... just give it a week or two. You'll wonder how you ever dealt with having every white thing look like UV-damaged formerly-white plastic.".
I do agree that headache/disorientation-inducing flicker is awful, but disagree that setting up an incandescent bulb would do all that much for it. Better to replace the garbage LED blinkers with something that's not broken.
- RetroTechie 3mo agoIt gets more complicated: There's color temperature: warm white (~2800K), neutral white (~4000K), or cool white (~5000K and up). This is a matter of personal taste and what you're used to. Perception/preference may vary depending on lighting level: one may prefer ~4500K in a bright room, but prefer warm(er) white if same room is dimly lit. Then there's the quality of the spectrum a LED outputs, usually denoted by color rendering index (CRI). 70 or lower is poor (cheap), 80+ is good enough for most uses, 90+ is high quality. Pro photographers may seek out specialty 95CRI LED lighting, or go for halogen lamps. Parents' problem has nothing to do with the above! Flicker is caused by non-constant current put through the LED(s). Usually caused by cheap/crappy driver electronics integrated in a LED bulb. There's ways around this. So you can have LED lighting that's nice to look at, flicker-free & efficient. No need to bring in incandescents. But it takes effort to find a fixture with a high-CRI powerLED of your chosen color, and combine that with driver electronics which puts a constant current through the LED (as opposed to varying current whose average is constant). Search term: "Chip-on-board" (CoB LED).