> a double-figure-8 (the standard rope<->harness knot) will break at around 14kn My understanding (based on some training aeons ago) is that the figure 8 knots

> a double-figure-8 (the standard rope<->harness knot) will break at around 14kn My understanding (based on some training aeons ago) is that the figure 8 knots prevalence for tying in is not due to that strength - but instead because it is easy to check, hard to back through/untie during usage, and strong when mis-tied (ie errors are made and not caught).