Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan No better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan No better way to be reminded there is a big difference between someone that surfs for fun and someone who is a surfer. Surfing parts aside, this book taught me to appreciate the different parts of your life around your 'obsession' as you get older.