3 ms·

I was top-roping in a gym once, about 40 ft up, my belayer said “one sec” so I stopped and looked down, they had unhooked their belay device, fucked with it

by dgfitz 2y ago

I was top-roping in a gym once, about 40 ft up, my belayer said “one sec” so I stopped and looked down, they had __unhooked__ their belay device, fucked with it for a bit, and reconnected it. I downclimbed, not the route just whatever holds were easiest, and left. I’d known this person for a few months and was convinced they knew basic safety. I was always kind of anal about safety, with everyone, so it wasn’t a vibe I was giving off. That was my last time on a rope. Strictly bouldering now.

scottlamb 2y ago
Terrifying! * Duh, you don't stop belaying mid-climb. * And why? Was it because something was uncomfortable (and somehow they thought fixing that was more important than your safety?) or because they suddenly thought the belay device was...not clipped into the harness right to begin with or something? Was it right when you cross-checked them prior to climbing? * And in saying "one sec" rather than a clear "belay off", they were minimizing the event at additional risk to you. No integrity there. I guess the only good thing I can say is that even if the belay device wasn't clipped into the harness, as long as the rope was wound through it properly, someone could still yank on the brake side and stop you. But obviously not take slack as you continued to climb, and from what you're describing I doubt they had their hand on the brake side as they futzed with the harness or whatever. So pretty weak comfort overall. I had the opposite experience once: while climbing in a park, my belayer sung a song that went something like "you're off belay, you're off belay, if you fall and die it's not my fault because you're off belay". I was pissed but what you're describing is a million times worse. My belayer was clearly being a dick but not so much that he actually stopped belaying and risked my life. Lyrics aside, he always used correct technique from pre checks through the whole climb, had practiced stopping someone from the ground if they lost their grip while repelling, came with a thoughtfully stocked first-aid kit, set up the climb properly with redundant webbing at the top, etc.
- St00ge 2y ago
  [flagged]
highstep 2y ago
Good thing you werent about to fall off the route! The older i grow the more I've come to realize that its not uncommon for people to lack awareness about risk and consequences. These days it takes me many outings with a climber partner to truly trust them. This is why it always blows my mind when i see people going out on multi pitch climbs with people they've never climbed with before.

I was top-roping in a gym once, about 40 ft up, my belayer said “one sec” so I stopped and looked down, they had __unhooked__ their belay device, fucked with it

by dgfitz 2y ago

scottlamb 2y ago

Terrifying! * Duh, you don't stop belaying mid-climb. * And why? Was it because something was uncomfortable (and somehow they thought fixing that was more important than your safety?) or because they suddenly thought the belay device was...not clipped into the harness right to begin with or something? Was it right when you cross-checked them prior to climbing? * And in saying "one sec" rather than a clear "belay off", they were minimizing the event at additional risk to you. No integrity there. I guess the only good thing I can say is that even if the belay device wasn't clipped into the harness, as long as the rope was wound through it properly, someone could still yank on the brake side and stop you. But obviously not take slack as you continued to climb, and from what you're describing I doubt they had their hand on the brake side as they futzed with the harness or whatever. So pretty weak comfort overall. I had the opposite experience once: while climbing in a park, my belayer sung a song that went something like "you're off belay, you're off belay, if you fall and die it's not my fault because you're off belay". I was pissed but what you're describing is a million times worse. My belayer was clearly being a dick but not so much that he actually stopped belaying and risked my life. Lyrics aside, he always used correct technique from pre checks through the whole climb, had practiced stopping someone from the ground if they lost their grip while repelling, came with a thoughtfully stocked first-aid kit, set up the climb properly with redundant webbing at the top, etc.

St00ge 2y ago
[flagged]

highstep 2y ago

Good thing you werent about to fall off the route! The older i grow the more I've come to realize that its not uncommon for people to lack awareness about risk and consequences. These days it takes me many outings with a climber partner to truly trust them. This is why it always blows my mind when i see people going out on multi pitch climbs with people they've never climbed with before.