I supervised a small climbing wall for one year in the mid 2000s. I was really strict about our belay test, but we had some flexibility built in. If you had exp

I supervised a small climbing wall for one year in the mid 2000s. I was really strict about our belay test, but we had some flexibility built in. If you had experience climbing, you could show us your technique and we'd pass you if your technique kept the climber safe at all times. It didn't happen often, but there were a number of people who had over a decade of experience, who didn't realize they were leaving the climber vulnerable to a catastrophic fall in some of their transitions. Those people had just never had anyone fall at that point in their belaying. They were momentarily embarrassed, but to their credit everyone I had to call out about technique appreciated not being given a pass because of their years of experience.