Good grief. Please don't do this. I am a furniture maker, here's what I see in this video. The latency looks like it'd really be something to deal with; the d

Good grief. Please don't do this. I am a furniture maker, here's what I see in this video. The latency looks like it'd really be something to deal with; the distortion of vision looks like it'd be miserable to deal with. Stuff happens fast when it goes sideways, and not having a clear picture of exactly how it's going sideways could be disadvantageous, to say the least. Watch him fumbling the piece on the table saw at 7:15. Never mind that he really ought to have an outfeed table to catch it (as should I), but this is a relatively low-risk situation where having excellent awareness of everything around you is key. I would be curious how the peripheral vision works on the headset; he's clearly struggling a little bit with the arm he's trying to grab the piece with, but he has a whole 'nother arm that's also in proximity to a loose piece of plywood and a spinning blade. Fixating on your right arm while having limited awareness of what's happening with the left in this situation wouldn't be something I'd recommend. Flush trimming on the router table looks spicy and is similarly something I'd strongly encourage nobody ever to do while wearing a VR headset. I've tossed a couple pieces off as has probably everyone who's ever used a bearing-guided bit with a small piece. I also knew a guy who was trying to flush trim with a hand-held router near a corner of a table top. He didn't get on the corner right, and the bit climbed the end grain and caught him in the nose. Like I said, stuff happens really fast when it goes wrong. Personally, I'm super-impressed with the Shaper Origin in this video. I'm going to assume this isn't his first rodeo, but that it has enough tolerance to how he's using it with the input latency and distortion blows me away. On the subject of undermount drawer slides. It doesn't look like he's using Blums. Blum comes with pretty clear directions and doesn't require adjusting the length of the box from the nominal length of the slide. That's not to say I've ever made a set of drawer boxes the wrong length, but it has been emphatically my fault for misreading the tape, not a failure of doing math. If you're in the US and generally work in US customary units as a result, and you're doing anything with Blum slides, get a metric tape[0] and ruler[1]. Blum has thoughtfully specced everything in US customary as well as metric, but I don't usually care to work in 32nd's of an inch if I don't have to. You can build the piece in inches and switch to metric for building the drawer boxes. Millimeters are small enough and the tolerances are good enough that if you're off by a smidge because you didn't land on a whole number of mm, the drawers still work. I haven't used undermounts other than Blum. Lastly, a tip on mounting drawer fronts: Drill a pair of oversized holes in the drawer box (typically) 1/4", and put the drawer in its hole. Insert dowel centers in those holes, shim the drawer front as you'd like it, and give it a light wallop to imprint the dowel centers. Drill the back of the drawer front on those marks for your favorite cabinet head or washer head screws. Mount it up and make fine adjustments as needed. Once you're happy, fix it with a pair of regular screws. If you're doing a large piece, don't fix the drawer fronts until it's landed at the customer's site. Uneven floors will twist carcasses and throw off the reveals. [0] FastCap makes one if you can't rustle one up locally. You want one with metric on both sides of the tape. Trust me on this. EDIT: Both sides meaning marks extending the full width of the top (convex) face of the tape, not on both the concave and convex faces of the tape. [1] Starrett makes them for their excellent combination squares.