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Not the fella you asked but let me offer some wisdom: smart switches are a lot easier to live with than smart lights. If you also want color control, HA can do
by luma 2y ago
Not the fella you asked but let me offer some wisdom: smart switches are a lot easier to live with than smart lights. If you also want color control, HA can do a decent job of making smart switches work well with smart lights.
The core problem with a smart light is that it very likely has a switch somewhere. If someone turns that switch off, that smart light just lost power and became dumb. Turning it back on now involves a trip to the switch.
A smart switch is smart so long as utility power is running and you never find yourself in a position where the managed device is in an unknown and/or uncontrollable state.
- BikiniPrince 2y agoThis is my next adventure because somewhere someone had left a light on! Those esp32 relays can fit right in a work box.
- hokumguru 2y agoMy solution was to add Shelly relays behind all of my “dumb” switches. They keep power always on and essentially turn the switch into a smart button to dim or brighten my Lifx lights. This way I get circadian & party lighting while still maintaining the convenience of physical light switches! And to parent question: Lifx still has the best color/brightness of any smart bulb and they’re IMO the best. Just make sure your WiFi can handle it.
- giobox 2y agoEven better, get smart switches that don't use wifi or IP addresses. I'm personally of opinion my homes core features should not rely on needing IP addresses, working DHCP or DNS etc just to turn a light bulb on and off. Home assistant works amazingly well with zigbee devices, and these are plentiful and cheap etc, and don't rely on working wifi/IP infrastructure. When I sell up, my zigbee switches will work just fine as plain-ole light switches even with all my Home Assistant infra ripped out, leaving no issues for next buyer. You can add zigbee support to pretty much any Home Assistant setup with a 20 buck USB adapter, Home Assistant even make an official one: https://www.home-assistant.io/connectzbt1/ https://www.home-assistant.io/connectzbt1/ The also sell Home Assistant servers with zigbee radios built in: https://www.home-assistant.io/yellow/ https://www.home-assistant.io/yellow/ The light switches are often cheaper than wifi equivalents too. Wifi bulbs should really only be considered by renters IMO - people who can't easily replace wall switches or similar.
- edelans 2y agoWhat zigbee switch do you recommend ? I was considering Sonoff zbmini.
- giobox 2y agoI've had great results with the Aquara zigbee stuff - almost all of them work fine connecting to HomeAssistant via generic zigbee USB adapters, and can be found online pretty cheaply. I have >50 of their switches and sensors at the moment.
- ddeck 2y agoAqara is a bit of a mixed bag. A lot of their switches are not Zigbee certified and don't conform to the standard. Specifically, they won't bind directly with devices from other manufacturers. This might not matter if you're pushing everything through a hub like HA, but if you want to connect directly with other devices and remotes then it likely won't work.
- echoangle 2y agoThat's not an advantage of switches though. My smart bulbs are Zigbee, too.
- giobox 2y agoThe main drawback with keeping the switch "dumb" and only using smart bulbs is someone can turn off power to the bulb etc, which is why I and parent commenter focus on automating the switches. If someone turns wall switch off and its dumb, you can't turn the "smart" bulb on with home automation regardless of what tech is used inside it. Focusing on automating the switch generally has best returns on making most dependable system, as you will always be able to get the light back on. Again, I only recommend smart-bulb only if you are a renter or similar and can't mess with your switches. Zigbee access to the bulb is great for stuff like changing whitebalance etc though. In my own home I have the bulbs and the switch on ZigBee so I can do this, but power on/off is solely preserve of the automated switch.
- diffeomorphism 2y agoCan you do that yourself or would you need an electrician to sign off? What about your landlord? I agree in principle that this is much nicer in theory. Just like wired is more reliable than wireless. However, retrofitting all that is also much more difficult.
- luma 2y agoDepends on where you live. In most jurisdictions in the US it's generally OK for a homeowner to perform "like for like" replacement work on their own residence without a license or inspection. This means you can replace an existing light switch, or an outlet, or a breaker. You generally cannot run new wire or new outlets without a permit. If you own a property but don't live there (eg, you're a landlord), it's essentially never legal. The best answer is to contact the local AHJ.
- BrutalCoding 2y agoDisagreed. To get the best of both worlds I run smart switches that control the smart lights. E.g. install the Philips Hue Wall Switch Module (Zigbee) and make an automation in HomeAssistant to turn off the corresponding light(s). Now you benefit from both, like being able to make the lights fade off/on. Also, in case it doesn’t always respond instantly, you should be able to bind the Zigbee devices directly to each other so that it doesn’t need to travel to the Zigbee coordinator (or mesh?) first. Haven’t had the need for this myself though.
- lolinder 2y ago> Now you benefit from both, like being able to make the lights fade off/on. Dimmable smart switch plus dimmable standard bulbs accomplish this. No color (though Phillips has a line that tints red when dimmed.)
- ethbr1 2y agoIs there anything that does PWM data over powerline to control lights? That seems like the best of all worlds. Networked smart switch. Switch in absolute authority of light. Switch still able offer advanced light features (e.g. hue set).
- wkat4242 2y agoThe problem with smart switches is they require 3 wires: live, neutral and the switched wire to the light. Where I live most switches have only two: live and the switched wire to the light. The neutral goes directly to the light and doesn't pass through the switch. Because of this I have no way to power the smart switch module. Unless I want to rewire half the house :(
- gorgoiler 2y agoSonoff make modules that don’t need a neutral connection: https://sonoff.tech/product-review/product-insight/zbmini-extreme-zigbee-smart-switch-no-neutral-required/ https://sonoff.tech/product-review/product-insight/zbmini-ex... I assume they hack what little power they need from the AC wobble? How do they do that without triggering a current leakage cutout though? Perhaps they “charge” when current flows for the first time?
- XorNot 2y agoAthom make ESPhome smart switches with no neutral wire, they work great. The way it works is you put a bypass capacitor to neutral in the light fixture, and then it lets the switch be powered - no flicker or low energy requirements needed.
- wkat4242 2y agoAh I see, does require to modify the light though. But it's interesting to look at, thanks. I don't use Homey though, I use Home Assistant. So I'm not sure if it works with that.
- Semaphor 2y agoSmart switches are a lot more annoying when renting, though. In addition, for us, all but the hallway bulbs make frequent use of color features, so I’d need both anyway. Though I’ll admit, it might be worth the hassle if you have guests often or many people living at your place.
- sroussey 2y agoI have Lutron switches. What ceiling lights can I get that change color based on time of day?
- giobox 2y agoIf the lights have adjustable white balance, you almost always can sync light color temp to time of day with home assistant's flux: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/flux/ https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/flux/ This works with almost any smart light you can get connected to HA (most smart lights have white balance adjust), it's brand agnostic etc. I have lights from several different vendors working together this way.
- sroussey 2y agoSo I need some smart light that can be dimmed from power source. Which are those?
- nucleardog 2y agoThis is the way. Especially if other people live in your house. Look at this stuff as "progressive enhancement". Make the simple things work, then build on top of that. Don't replace the simple things with complicated, elaborate things. You don't want to live without lights for a week because a SD card died in a Raspberry Pi somewhere or something. The overly complicated setup I'm using to run my smart home automation stuff shit the bed and I was too busy with work to really spend the time fixing it so... I just didn't. For six months. The only major complaint I heard was that the outside lighting was no longer turning itself on and off with the sun. Even in the worst case scenario, all of the lights still have switches that can be turned on and off as long as there's power. It's all zwave, and I've made use of the scenes / direct associations / etc such that most of the stuff people actually care about happens without being mediated by Home Assistant. Or requiring any sort of network. When I move out of this house, I could leave it all behind and it would keep working as-is without my server, access point, active internet connection, or anything else. If there's power, it works. All my living room lights (three dimmers) are controlled by a single dimmer. The three way switches in our bedroom are now dimmers. One controls the lights, the other acts as a remote control for it. The pantry light turns itself off after 20 minutes because people always forget it on. Both the kitchen light switches turn on and off with the single, easily accessible switch. The switch for the porch lights also turns the string lights on the gazebo a hundred feet from the house on and off. My kid's too small to reach the regular switches, so there's a battery-powered remote switch mounted on the wall at her height in her bedroom and the bathroom. Those still work and are still able to dim the lights in her room. Etc, etc. All without anything but electricity. I said only _major_ complaint--my kid definitely had some complaints. We have one switch that has a couple of those RGB projector bulbs hooked up to it. When you turn that on, an automation turns off all the rest of the lights and starts playing some dance music. Her party lights still turned on, but it no longer made the music start. If you want colour control then get smart bulbs to go downstream of your smart switches. Set them to always go to "on" when power's restored, and build that _on top_ with your automation. You'll always have a working light, your automation can always turn them on even when someone's turned the switch off like a normal person would, but when everything else is working you'll _also_ get colour control.