4 ms·
> If the code body was looking for problems in need of solving, they should have banned all of the janky residential/builder grade $1 receptacles instead. Abso
by quickthrowman 2y ago
> If the code body was looking for problems in need of solving, they should have banned all of the janky residential/builder grade $1 receptacles instead.
Absolutely, those should not exist. I buy commercial spec grade (Hubbell CR20 or equal) whenever I replace a receptacle in my house, they are ~$3 or so.
If you want the ‘best’, Hubbell HBL5362 is the ticket, very well built with a one piece brass grounding strap, I can get them for under $10, but you need to go to a supply house or Grainger to get this one.
> like it would be utterly stupid to put a GFCI ahead of a sump pump (at least without some kind of active monitoring that would alert you if it tripped).
This was actually added to the NEC in 2020, any 120V sump pump that draws 60A or less requires GFCI protection, even if its cord and plug.
You could rig up monitoring with a current switch, normally open relay, and notification device.
Install the current switch around the load side of the GFCI breaker feeding the sump pump that is wired to the control coil of a normally open relay and wire up a horn, strobe, ESP32 or whatever you want to use as a notification device to the relay output.
When the GFCI breaker trips, the current switch will close the relay and power up the notification device.
If you don’t want to rig it up yourself, there are sump pump monitoring kits with text/email notifications, etc.
Or you can avoid it altogether by installing a 240V sump, no GFCI needed.
- mindslight 2y agoI'm with you on the Hubbell's. FWIW Grainger has created a consumer-targeted website called Zoro that's actually become one of my go-to's for home improvement stuff. Although often times I have to spec things by looking through manufacturer's catalogs because their parametric search still sucks. As for the sump pump issue, I avoid it all together by not using GFCI for mere basement outlets. I live in a state where homeowner work is legal, inspectors actively do not want to inspect it, and following the NEC is legally sufficient but not necessary. Some monitoring is on the table eventually, but will include measuring current consumption to see how often the pump is running.
- EricE 2y ago"FWIW Grainger has created a consumer-targeted website called Zoro" How the heck did I not know this existed? Thanks!
- quickthrowman 2y ago> FWIW Grainger has created a consumer-targeted website called Zoro that's actually become one of my go-to's for home improvement stuff. Although often times I have to spec things by looking through manufacturer's catalogs because their parametric search still sucks. Ah, so that’s what Zoro is! I work for an electrical contractor so I can get material from supply houses, but if I ever change careers I’ll definitely be using Zoro. > As for the sump pump issue, I avoid it all together by not using GFCI for mere basement outlets. I live in a state where homeowner work is legal, inspectors actively do not want to inspect it, and following the NEC is legally sufficient but not necessary. Some monitoring is on the table eventually, but will include measuring current consumption to see how often the pump is running. Yeah, I’d leave any receptacle in a basement non-GFCI protected unless it’s adjacent to a sink or something. Other than that, all your existing devices are grandfathered in. Leviton makes some decent meters, here’s what I would suggest using: https://leviton.com/products/1k240-1w https://leviton.com/products/1k240-1w Home Depot sells that as a kit with a meter and (2) CTs for $350: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Series-1000-Single-Phase-Indoor-Meter-Kit-120-240-Volt-100-Amp-1P-3-Wire-with-2-Solid-Core-CTs-Gray-1K240-1SW/302119837 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Series-1000-Single-Phase...