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Studied ancient Chinese history but not a silk expert, here's my 2c. Critical background is that silk takes a lot of labour to prepare. First you must have the
by contingencies 2y ago
Studied ancient Chinese history but not a silk expert, here's my 2c.
Critical background is that silk takes a lot of labour to prepare. First you must have the right kind of insects (various species of moth in the larval stage are commonly known as "silkworm"), then you must have the right kind of trees to feed them (commonly mulberries), then you add a lot of labour for capture, harvesting, spinning, dyeing, weaving. In modern times I have only really seen it prepared commercial scale in Jiangsu province (near Xuzhou). If you head too far north the insects probably suffer from the cold, and if you head too far south any artificial farming monoculture is probably readily outcompeted by other flowering plants and predatory insects which are more suited to the tropics (on account of higher moisture, food availability and temperature).
Relative to existing fabrics such as hemp, silk has at least in other contexts been of value militarily because of its relative strength to weight ratio and dense weave when applied to important tasks such as resisting arrows, although I'm uncertain if this use had emerged yet. Any military use would tend to reinforce a cultural link between life and death owing to its spatiotemporal proximity to mortality events.
The fact that it is soft and labour-intensive (expensive / in short supply) means it was probably reserved for the wealthier or higher ranking figures.
Although the paper doesn't state it clearly, it actually deals with the archaeological findings of a non-Han Chinese civilization in the area of Sichuan which was illiterate and was based around what appeared to be a bird and tree cult (the Shu kingdom of the Sichuan basin[1]). It is therefore possible that a kind of soft, reflective-refractive, feather-like, readily dyed textile with a fine weave may have contributed to some sort of ritual purpose in line with these beliefs. Later this civilization was destroyed by the Han Chinese.
The wicking properties of silk are fair (I was unable to find a quantitative reference) as was the major early textile of hemp (which is also tough and therefore long-lasting) which is significant as we know that Sichuan in the Shu kingdom period was a vast, tropical inland basin criss-crossed by regularly flooding rivers descending from the Himalayas, thickly forested and with crocodiles, elephants, rhinos, giant cats, colourful birds, etc. Both silk and hemp textiles would help to cool anyone wearing them, relative to other options (animal skins, etc.). Furthermore, in the absence of modern medicine, fine-weave capable wicking fabrics would assist with resisting potentially lethal bacterial and fungal infections in the tropical environment and may therefore have been used as wound dressings or undergarments.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shu_(kingdom) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shu_(kingdom)
- NoMoreNicksLeft 2y ago> Relative to existing fabrics such as hemp, silk has at least in other contexts been of value militarily because of its relative strength to weight ratio Silk's just easier in general. Unlike vegetable fibers, silk can be reeled to yarn/thread directly. With cotton (or wool), there are about 4-6 other processes before you can even get to spinning. Hemp's worse still, I think there's a retting process in there like with linen. Or perhaps, it's more true that the labor-intensive portions are up front... you're feeding the dumb little worms up to 4 times a day early on, transferring them off of the eaten leaves (so as to avoid disease), and this only lightens up to twice a day later in the lifecycle. And this isn't tapping out a little pinch of food like for a goldfish bowl, they'll often do 10,000 worms at a time just to have some modest quantity of fiber (perhaps enough for 5 or 6 yards of fabric). This ends up being like 60+ lbs of mulberry leaves there at the end. All told though, I'd much rather raise the worms than sit there for six months trying to card cotton by hand.
- jazzyjackson 2y agoA woman in my local spinning and weaving club took up silk worms as a hobby, spent about 6 months from beginning to end and wound up (lol) with a ~ square foot patch to hang on the wall. Pretty impressive conversion from tree leaves to silk when you think about it.
- NoMoreNicksLeft 2y agoMe and my kids are still trying to figure out how to scale it up. We thought we had the right sort of mulberries... first batch starved. Then we tried Samia instead of Bombyx, but every single package would arrive damaged and empty. We've got mulberry seeds going, and we're getting some cuttings for this spring. Even then, you need something like 250+ cocoons for an ounce of silk, so we're not expecting much at first.
- Freak_NL 2y agoWait, why are your packets of seed arriving empty all the time? Customs declaring them exotic and harmful? Mulberry mobsters? Moths in the delivery chain?