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“It has generally been assumed that waves are 2D” Any surfer could explain a “double up” or “wedge” and of course a rogue wave is the same phenomena. Google “f
by nbardy 2y ago
“It has generally been assumed that waves are 2D”
Any surfer could explain a “double up” or “wedge” and of course a rogue wave is the same phenomena. Google “fan wave” there is 100s of photographs of examples of this pheneoma the article claims is rarely captured.
Wave science is generally very far behind wave engineering. I’m pretty shocked when I look through papers how much is missing compared to colloquial knowledge among surfers.
Generally there isn’t much funding for the field and the theory falls way behind known phenomena and their understanding. But there is a fairly large surf industry now. Surfline(the largest forecasting company) has much better wave mechanics explanations than anything you can find in academic literature.
- Taek 2y ago"The science is way behind the engineering" - it has been my experience that this is the case for most fields with commercial or hobbiest applications.
- K0balt 2y agoWave science has been tightly tied to lab models and computer models of lab conditions for as long as I can remember. It seems like an inherently calculatable environment, and the messiness of nature a distraction. This bias, I think, is what has caused it to lag behind the empirical reality of wave engineering. Observation is hard and often unfruitful. Simulation often fails to imagine the complex interactions that create extreme observations. It’s just a hard slog any way you look at it.