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I'd use de-ionized water and Simple Green (a citrus-based cleaner which evaporates at about the same rate as water), but I'd expect a toaster to survive once dr

I'd use de-ionized water and Simple Green (a citrus-based cleaner which evaporates at about the same rate as water), but I'd expect a toaster to survive once dry. I've cleaned several Teletype machines that way. The problem isn't water; it's solids left behind when the water evaporates, and corrosion. Not all parts will survive this. Microphones and MEMS devices tend not to do well. Motors and transformers with paper insulation don't do well. Most modern electronics goes through a dishwasher-like process after assembly, to remove any excess solder and paste. A few parts have to be added past that point.

varjag 2y ago
Oh speaking of. I have this really gunked up Model 35 tape typing unit and was about to dunk it in motor flushing oil. But then I see it has felt pieces and the magnets appear to be coated in shellac. Do you submerse your units completely or do you remove the sensitive parts?
- Animats 2y ago
  I've done the older machines, Teletype Model 14 and 15, nearly a century old. I remove the magnets and the motor and immerse everything else. The Model 35 has many plastic parts and some electronics, so I can't speak from experience. Look up Greenkeys Digest and ask there. ("All gunked up" usually means the wrong lubricant was used at some point. Usually something that has heavy fractions. The short, light hydrocarbon molecules in the oil evaporate, leaving behind the long chains that are basically asphalt. The original Teletype oil was whale oil. I lubricate Teletypes with 0-20W fully synthetic motor oil, which is supposed to be a consistent length of hydrocarbon. So when it evaporates over a few years, it just leaves dry metal. Especially avoid WD-40. All wrong for this.)
  - varjag 2y ago
    Thanks for the tips, I did in fact subscribe to Greenkeys just a few days ago! The machine cycles when I turn the shaft but it's quite filthy. And I don't have the motor or the base for it just the typing unit proper (which is basically a simplified typing reperforator). On that one there's hardly anything fancier than the magnets or the edge connector although yes there could be a couple Nylon pads.

varjag 2y ago

Oh speaking of. I have this really gunked up Model 35 tape typing unit and was about to dunk it in motor flushing oil. But then I see it has felt pieces and the magnets appear to be coated in shellac. Do you submerse your units completely or do you remove the sensitive parts?

Animats 2y ago
I've done the older machines, Teletype Model 14 and 15, nearly a century old. I remove the magnets and the motor and immerse everything else. The Model 35 has many plastic parts and some electronics, so I can't speak from experience. Look up Greenkeys Digest and ask there. ("All gunked up" usually means the wrong lubricant was used at some point. Usually something that has heavy fractions. The short, light hydrocarbon molecules in the oil evaporate, leaving behind the long chains that are basically asphalt. The original Teletype oil was whale oil. I lubricate Teletypes with 0-20W fully synthetic motor oil, which is supposed to be a consistent length of hydrocarbon. So when it evaporates over a few years, it just leaves dry metal. Especially avoid WD-40. All wrong for this.)
- varjag 2y ago
  Thanks for the tips, I did in fact subscribe to Greenkeys just a few days ago! The machine cycles when I turn the shaft but it's quite filthy. And I don't have the motor or the base for it just the typing unit proper (which is basically a simplified typing reperforator). On that one there's hardly anything fancier than the magnets or the edge connector although yes there could be a couple Nylon pads.