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Buy an used 2008 -- I'm seeing loads of people dumping their new cars -- Honda or Toyota econobox and use the rest of that money for something else more importa
by alaskamiller 18y ago
Buy an used 2008 -- I'm seeing loads of people dumping their new cars -- Honda or Toyota econobox and use the rest of that money for something else more important.
- noodle 18y agobuying used is usually a very good option. the car will lose the most value in its first year. buying used tends to mean someone else is taking that hit for you.
- nostrademons 18y agoHave to be careful you're not getting a lemon though. If you don't know the seller personally, take it to a mechanic you trust and have them fully inspect the car. Probably a good idea even if you do know the seller. That's the reason I'm about to get a new car - I'm moving across the country, I don't know any of the possible sellers or any of the area mechanics or dealerships, and I really don't want to deal with all the car maintenance stuff on top of all the other stuff that comes with living in a new area. Otherwise I'd buy used. And I run cars into the ground - I expect to get 10-15 years usage out of this one.
- etal 18y agoThere are dealer-certified used cars, too, available from new-car dealerships. The best are the demo cars that they drive up to around 5,000, then sell. It's much cheaper than new, and you still can be confident it's not a lemon (possibly more so than with a new car).
- gleb 18y agoBuy used. $50k used car is a better deal and a better car than $50k new car. Car is an asset, and its total cost of ownership has less to do with its price than where it is in its depreciation curve. $50k new car means $10-15k depreciation in the first year. You can buy just about anything used for less TCO. Another thing to consider is having 2 cars. By buying a second car that depreciates less (it's cheaper, older, etc.) you actually save money. And with 2 cars you can go no-compromise on both ends of the spectrum. Recommendations: E39 M5, E60 M5, C5 Z06, 996 911 GT3 or TT, Ferrari F550. Second car: Honda Odyssey, Honda Accord
- tptacek 18y agoThe "first cars" you've listed are (from experience, in some cases) expensive to maintain; the M's will also suck anywhere it gets cold, as will (heh) the Ferrari.
- gleb 18y agoExpensive to maintain -- agreed except on the Vette. And you'd want winter tires in a cold place. But for all of them, the difference is less than depreciation on a new $50k car. Ferrari is different of course, but $25k of depreciation (new car for 3 years) may cover even that. The point is not that GT3 is a frugal choice, but that buying a new car is an extravagance, and for the same cost you could be driving a vastly better car.
- tptacek 18y agoYou don't want a rear-wheel drive car in a place where the roads get icey.
- jam 18y agoLike Zak said, the drive wheels don't have much to do with actual driving dynamics. That's all tires and differentials. Four wheel drive is great for a lot of reasons, but in the winter it's only real benefit is acceleration - getting you unstuck or up hills. You're not less likely to crash while moving in an S4 as compared to an M3.
- tptacek 18y agoWell, I drive pretty regularly in an RWD M3, an AWD A6, and a FWD Volvo S40, and I'll tell you the M3 isn't my first choice on ice. Yes, tires are important. You still want AWD.
- jam 18y agoI'm in a similar boat, and as far as I can tell, ability > tires > drive wheels. It isn't that they aren't important, but people tend to place faaaaaaar too high a value on drive layout for winter driving. Now, on the track, it makes a BIG difference. In the snow, however, your goal is safety... not competitive times.
- manvsmachine 18y agoAnother point: if your theoretical limit is ~$50K, don't spend that much on the car itself. Multiply it by maybe 2/3 or 3/4 and spend that amount; then buy yourself the best tires, brakes, and suspension parts (optional) that you can afford without going over what you wanted to spend.