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For the Julia Child Mastering the Art of French Cooking, some decades ago, gave a lot in time, money, and effort. The main dish I tried was her Boeuf Bourguig
by graycat 2y ago
For the Julia Child Mastering the Art of French Cooking, some decades ago, gave a lot in time, money, and effort.
The main dish I tried was her
Boeuf Bourguignon.
It turns out, some long notes on a
version of Child's dish now are at
https://cafedelites.com/beef-bourguignon/ https://cafedelites.com/beef-bourguignon/
That recipe starts with:
"Tender fall apart chunks of beef simmered"
Right, that's the goal and expected result. Right. No doubt.
Well, I tried: Over and over and over, off and on for 10+ years. Devoted a lot of time, money, and effort. Nope, it was a LOT-LOT-LOT and more than that.
Results: All the same. Disaster. Shouldn't just pour it down a drain since that might create expensive plumbing problems.
Then to study the issue, talked with some chefs, read some Escoffier, talked with a US beef industry group, read some materials on science and chemistry of cooking.
The problem was that first description at the beginning of the notes with the URL above, the
"Tender fall apart chunks of beef simmered"
Didn't get that. That's right on target of what I NEVER got. Instead, always the same, for the beef, got only hard, brittle, dry chunks.
Why? It was one word: "Simmer". Don't do that. Never, never, ever simmer beef or any meat. No way. Don't do that. Put the stew in a 350 F oven for some hours? Never
do that either. Use a pressure cooker? In a sense, a pressure cooker, to get temperature over 212 F boiling, is the worst possible approach.
Instead, the solution is simple, dirt simple, in just a few words: Need an actual, clear, meaningful definition of simmer. To be clear, never let the stew get over, say, 180 F. For food safety, 165+ F is a common recommendation. Collagen melts starting at ~160 F. So, for hours of cooking, 180 F risks being too high.
That is, in simple terms, use a thermometer.
Why???? Well, some food chemistry discussions explain that get meat much over 180 F, the proteins will "unwind" and expel their water, and the meat chunks will shrink and become brittle and dry, something like charcoal, nothing like the claim
"Tender fall apart chunks of beef simmered"
And until I learned about some Food Chemistry 101, have a good definition of simmer and use a thermometer, the charcoal-like chunks are what I always got.
The easy way to regulate the temperature is just to use a pot on the stove top where can keep taking measurements with the thermometer.
In simple terms, what "cooking" beef, or any meat, is all about is melting collagen. With the collagen melted out, what is left are the meat fibers, and they are "always" (as I recall from one of the food chemistry sources) tender. Again, collagen starts to melt at ~160 F. If melt the collagen and are at 165 F for food safety, you are DONE.
There is another point: The mention to use beef stock. Yup, should do that. For this, for better flavor, to follow Escoffier, get meat from relatively old cattle. Tough, old, lean meat will have more collagen, and once melted that is desirable although now can buy collagen as dry sheets in a box at the grocery.
As part of the work I did, looked into getting such meat. Finally some packing house people explained that such meat mostly goes to fast food.
So, define simmer as 180- F and get a thermometer. That's the solution.
Finally there is a third point: For soups and stews, onions, carrots, and celery are a classic combination, a "trilogy".
- bombela 2y agoCooking shouldn't be that hard. Bœuf Bourguignon is a very low effort dish. Slow cooking meat in wine and stock. I am going to assume you were not exposed enough to parents and family cooking while growing up. And therefore you haven't built much intuition around it. Happy cooking!
- clan 2y agoI did. And I always hated the "until it is right" instructions. A thermometer is a key tool which was not used when I grew up. I even commented to an aunt that my mother was a better cook because she did not use one for her roast. I have since learned my lesson. It is a golden kitchen tool. You can up your baking game by using it. Understand proofing temperatures and time. And now our Rye bread comes out perfectly every time as we know to pull it at 97 C. Cooking is not hard. But good cooking can be achieved without years of learned intuition.
- bombela 2y agoBaking (bread, pastries, cakes, cookies, etc) definitely requires precision. A scale, thermometer, precise timing, following the recipie carefully. Cooking (meat, veggies, soup, roasts, quiche, etc), is much more forgiving and works well free hand. With that said, I certainly use a thermometer whenever I want to be sure, I wouldn't want it any other way.
- clan 2y agoIf you want to go one step further get an induction stovetop. One of the praises for those would be that many better ones have temperature sensors. It is rarely advertised but if you get one with "auto" cooking it has a sensor which will turn down to your desired setting when boiling. That class of device would then often have a "keep warm" function. Those are typically set around 70 C. On mine i can choose heat levels I, II and III besides the regular adjustment. III I can set and forget for a simmer. Somewhere deep down in the manual I think it said 80-90 C. I can only find a later version of the manual online which only have a "keep warm". Just to say that you can get nice things for your home without going the route of the Breville Control Freak. In practice I often find it easier to use the oven. For other who is new to proper simmering/braising have a look at: https://www.ricardocuisine.com/en/articles/food-chemistry/643-how-to-perfect-the-art-of-braising https://www.ricardocuisine.com/en/articles/food-chemistry/64...