All I can say that while you are theoretically probably right, all of this ends up not being a problem in practice. 1. Resin shrinking tends to be uniform, whi

All I can say that while you are theoretically probably right, all of this ends up not being a problem in practice. 1. Resin shrinking tends to be uniform, which is something to be taken into account if you plan on making parts that fit into holes, like screw mounts. 2. Peel force is absolutely a problem, that's why you need to minimize contact surface with the print film. With 28mm minis, this tends to be not a problem, but for large models, its recommended you hollow them out. This saves resin and prevents partially cured resin from being trapped inside. Bending tends not to be an issue. 3. Again not a huge problem in practice. If you look at a sliced model, you will see, that below each layer the layer below is almost the same, with most pixels shared between the 2, and with overhangs that stick out by 1-2 pixels. This means that leaking light will likely hit parts of the model that are supposed to be solid anyway. But both underexposure and overexposure can happen, with the former meaning that resin doesn't properly cure, leading to thing features disappearing, and the latter meaning that light leaking will cure unintended resin, which leads to thin cavities disappearing. This can be fixed by dialing in the exposure. 4. PLA in my experience is just as prone to shattering as resin is. While truly TPU-like rubber resins might not exist (at least I've never used them), there are ton of resins with a slightly rubbery texture, which are solid, but are flexible enough that thin features don't break when you manhandle the models. Most official wargaming and board game minis tend to be made of a similar resin (which is probably not UV resin but has a similar feel)