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Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing?
by gnatman 3y ago
Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing?
- humbleferret 3y agoIt really is. My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.