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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life — William Finnegan — (2015)
by humbleferret 2y ago
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life — William Finnegan — (2015)
- gnatman 2y agoFantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing?
- humbleferret 2y agoIt really is. My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.