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OP is using the _exact_ colour scheme I used for my VORON 2.4r2 (350^2). I clicked through and for a moment thought I might be looking at one of my own photos,

OP is using the _exact_ colour scheme I used for my VORON 2.4r2 (350^2). I clicked through and for a moment thought I might be looking at one of my own photos, great taste OP! The Voron community is incredible and the Vorons themselves are incredible, there's so much scope (and precedent) for amazing modifications; i.e. my 2.4 kit came with Afterburner and some lower spec parts, but I built it from the get-go with Stealthburner and umbilical (CAN Bus) with an upgrade from the rubbish, V60 clone it came with to a Phaetus Dragon HF and a bunch of other modifications and upgrades. It took me about two-month's worth of evenings, taking my time to build it (much of the reason for choosing it was that I enjoy building things). Before that, I spent about a month upgrading my Ender 3 v2 so it could print ABS for all of the parts the Voron would need and building an enclosure out of IKEA tables, it was a pretty impressive bed-slinger, running Klipper by the time I was done, putting the stock E3v2 to shame. It still sits beside the Voron for emergencies, but it hasn't printed anything in quite a while now. Start printing with a properly tuned Voron, at speed, for the first time though, after having spent all that time building it, and you'll be grinning ear to ear.

mywacaday 3y ago
I'm at the start of same journey you took with my Ender 3 S1, I bough the Creality Sonic pad but haven't installed it yet. What other changes did you make to print ABS, any recommendations?
- dotnet00 3y ago
  The big two I'd recommend are an enclosure and an activated carbon filter (preferably an activated carbon+HEPA filter). With Ender 3's, you have the option of simple tent enclosures, they're ugly, but work well. This will help keep the enclosure warm, improving the reliability of ABS printing by both reducing warping (although this also comes down to the quality of filament) and improving bed adhesion. The activated carbon filter will keep the fumes under control. I use a Bentobox filter, which uses both activated carbon and a HEPA filter, but Nevermore filters are also very popular. That said, if you haven't bought it already, I'd recommend considering ASA instead of ABS. I recently tried ASA for the first time, and it is so much more of a pleasant experience compared to ABS, haven't seen any warping yet and produces far less fumes.
  - MegaDeKay 3y ago
    I'm skeptical on most internal filters that include a HEPA filter. I don't think those little fans have enough CFM and static pressure that they can push enough air through both the carbon pellets and the HEPA filter so both they can effectively do their job. The thing with VOCs is you can smell them and know that the filter is or isn't doing its job. Not so with microparticles, for which you need to get a sensor to measure them. And, of course, even sealed printers leak air (I'm looking at you, default Voron split door). My Trident has a Nevermore V5 Duo for VOCs only. I picked up a nice big Honeywell air clearer with a monster HEPA filter in it that turns over the air like crazy to deal with microparticles. As a bonus, I can use the Honeywell for those times like forest fire season when the air quality is bad.
    - dotnet00 3y ago
      I don't really know if the HEPA is doing its thing, but I got higher static pressure GDSTIME 5015 fans and can feel the airflow out the other end, past both the HEPA and carbon. As far as visual 'evidence', I can only go off the HEPA filter having turned pink after a printing with a lot of red filament. I mostly just keep it in because the pack of 10 filters was cheap, and the carbon is still doing its job despite the HEPA.
      - MegaDeKay 3y ago
        The HEPA probably isn't doing that much, and you're impacting the ability of the carbon to do its job and remove VOCs. I didn't want to play too fast & loose with microparticles given that they are really quite nasty little buggers.
    - throwway120385 3y ago
      Is there a reason you'd use HEPA instead of having a bigger MERV filter and relying on multiple passes to get the air clean? I thought MERV filters were a better fit if you're recirculating air using a small blower and HEPA does a better job if you can support the pressure drop and absolutely need the particles to be filtered on the first pass.
- blutack 3y ago
  In addition to the other poster's suggestions, "mouse ears" or other brim styles (slicer availability may vary) can be useful to help reduce warping.
- ezst 3y ago
  not a pro by any means but here are some pointers: - if applicable, swap the default, white Bowden tube by one that's heat resistant (Capricorn comes often as a recommendation), that's for your health - get a PEI sheet, ABS will have a tendency to detach/warp over long prints that PEI mitigates slightly - draft being the main cause for warping and failed/dimensionally inaccurate ABS prints, you need an enclosure. A cardboard box is enough, but then you need to refrain from looking inside (which is difficult for complex and long prints), having a transparent side could help - pre-hear enclosed, give it time, and tune your z offset accordingly - dry your filament
  - Bluestrike2 3y ago
    > - if applicable, swap the default, white Bowden tube by one that's heat resistant (Capricorn comes often as a recommendation), that's for your health Capricorn makes great bowden tubes, but even they're quite explicit about the risks of using any PTFE tubing--theirs included--inside a hot end at ABS temperatures.[0] The health risks come from toxic PTFE off-gassing above the normal temperatures for PLA (though it starts off-gassing in small amounts at around 200°C). It's nasty shit, and you don't want to be breathing it in. Heat resistant bowden tubing doesn't do anything about that off-gassing; it's just meant to help mitigate deformation of the tubing at higher temperatures. You're infinitely better off just tossing the PTFE-lined hot end and upgrading to an all-metal one. That anyone--cough, cough Creality and others in the inexpensive intro printer market--is shipping them on any of their printers in 2023 is just insane. 0. https://www.captubes.com/safety.html https://www.captubes.com/safety.html
    - tomn 3y ago
      I think it is less of a problem than it used to be, but historically PTFE-lined hot ends have been prefered for budget machines because they are more forgiving if all you want to do is print PLA. When everything is working right there should be no difference, but when things go wrong, not having plastic stuck to the heat break makes it more likely that a beginner can fix their own problem.
- alias_neo 3y ago
  I switched to a Hemera direct drive hotend, there are better options now, but you may not need that depending on what an S1 has OOB. The big change is the enclosure, doesn't have to be fancy, mine is a couple of IKEA LACK tables with some acrylic duct taped on and a door duct- taped on only one side. I upgraded from Marlin to Kipper and tuned for resonance which lets you achieve much better speeds and quality than a stock E3v2
wccrawford 3y ago
Sounds like your printer looked identical to mine at one point! I've since upgraded with with a klicky probe, then removed that and went Tap. I'm looking at replacing the Stealthburner with something with better cooling as it's definitely not good enough, even after replacing the fan that came with my LDO kit with an even better fan. I built mine in about a week while my wife was out of town with a friend, though. :D I have had a lot of problems getting it to be reliable, though. I've replaced a lot of parts and did a lot of upgrades. I'm finally at a point where the only thing I might "fix" would be to replace the belts because I'm pretty sure they're stretching little by little still, even after months. That said, it was more "reliable" out of the box than my 2 TronXY printers. It's just that I want it to be less stressful. I've seriously considered a Bambu because of that, but at this point I think mine is a match for them, so it's only the multi-color capability that has me interested in them now.
- SystemOut 3y ago
  Have you taken a look at the https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger project?
  - wccrawford 3y ago
    I don't think I had, no. Thanks! I might try to turn one of my older printers into a franken-voron and see if I can make that work. Edit: Just noticed that I'd already starred it on Github, so I guess I had, but had decided against it. I wonder if it was labeled as in-progress at that point? Anyhow, seems like it's worth pursuing. Thanks!
- linsomniac 3y ago
  >I've seriously considered a Bambu I've been there, I've told my Ender 3 Pro (plus lots of upgrades) that if it Fs up ONE MORE TIME I'm getting a Bambu. BUT... A friend of mine recently got a Bambu, partly because of my saying this, and he's been having problems with it: the LiDAR is having issues and support is being unsupportive. In the mean time my E3 has been super reliable and I've finally gotten it really dialed in (only took 4 years). I took a nearly year long side quest, replacing my original Sprite extruder/hot end with a second unit, until I could get the giant clump of plastic removed after a failed print, and apparently that second Sprite shipped with a bad nozzle. I finally happened on replacing the nozzle and things got instantly better. I've always wanted to build a Voron, but this set of problems tuning my E3 have left me burned out. On the Bambu front: my buddy wants to print primarily carbon fiber parts, so his use of it is more demanding than what mine would be, but it really gave me pause about my plan of getting a Bambu.

mywacaday 3y ago

I'm at the start of same journey you took with my Ender 3 S1, I bough the Creality Sonic pad but haven't installed it yet. What other changes did you make to print ABS, any recommendations?

dotnet00 3y ago
The big two I'd recommend are an enclosure and an activated carbon filter (preferably an activated carbon+HEPA filter). With Ender 3's, you have the option of simple tent enclosures, they're ugly, but work well. This will help keep the enclosure warm, improving the reliability of ABS printing by both reducing warping (although this also comes down to the quality of filament) and improving bed adhesion. The activated carbon filter will keep the fumes under control. I use a Bentobox filter, which uses both activated carbon and a HEPA filter, but Nevermore filters are also very popular. That said, if you haven't bought it already, I'd recommend considering ASA instead of ABS. I recently tried ASA for the first time, and it is so much more of a pleasant experience compared to ABS, haven't seen any warping yet and produces far less fumes.
- MegaDeKay 3y ago
  I'm skeptical on most internal filters that include a HEPA filter. I don't think those little fans have enough CFM and static pressure that they can push enough air through both the carbon pellets and the HEPA filter so both they can effectively do their job. The thing with VOCs is you can smell them and know that the filter is or isn't doing its job. Not so with microparticles, for which you need to get a sensor to measure them. And, of course, even sealed printers leak air (I'm looking at you, default Voron split door). My Trident has a Nevermore V5 Duo for VOCs only. I picked up a nice big Honeywell air clearer with a monster HEPA filter in it that turns over the air like crazy to deal with microparticles. As a bonus, I can use the Honeywell for those times like forest fire season when the air quality is bad.
  - dotnet00 3y ago
    I don't really know if the HEPA is doing its thing, but I got higher static pressure GDSTIME 5015 fans and can feel the airflow out the other end, past both the HEPA and carbon. As far as visual 'evidence', I can only go off the HEPA filter having turned pink after a printing with a lot of red filament. I mostly just keep it in because the pack of 10 filters was cheap, and the carbon is still doing its job despite the HEPA.
    - MegaDeKay 3y ago
      The HEPA probably isn't doing that much, and you're impacting the ability of the carbon to do its job and remove VOCs. I didn't want to play too fast & loose with microparticles given that they are really quite nasty little buggers.
  - throwway120385 3y ago
    Is there a reason you'd use HEPA instead of having a bigger MERV filter and relying on multiple passes to get the air clean? I thought MERV filters were a better fit if you're recirculating air using a small blower and HEPA does a better job if you can support the pressure drop and absolutely need the particles to be filtered on the first pass.
blutack 3y ago
In addition to the other poster's suggestions, "mouse ears" or other brim styles (slicer availability may vary) can be useful to help reduce warping.
ezst 3y ago
not a pro by any means but here are some pointers: - if applicable, swap the default, white Bowden tube by one that's heat resistant (Capricorn comes often as a recommendation), that's for your health - get a PEI sheet, ABS will have a tendency to detach/warp over long prints that PEI mitigates slightly - draft being the main cause for warping and failed/dimensionally inaccurate ABS prints, you need an enclosure. A cardboard box is enough, but then you need to refrain from looking inside (which is difficult for complex and long prints), having a transparent side could help - pre-hear enclosed, give it time, and tune your z offset accordingly - dry your filament
- Bluestrike2 3y ago
  > - if applicable, swap the default, white Bowden tube by one that's heat resistant (Capricorn comes often as a recommendation), that's for your health Capricorn makes great bowden tubes, but even they're quite explicit about the risks of using any PTFE tubing--theirs included--inside a hot end at ABS temperatures.[0] The health risks come from toxic PTFE off-gassing above the normal temperatures for PLA (though it starts off-gassing in small amounts at around 200°C). It's nasty shit, and you don't want to be breathing it in. Heat resistant bowden tubing doesn't do anything about that off-gassing; it's just meant to help mitigate deformation of the tubing at higher temperatures. You're infinitely better off just tossing the PTFE-lined hot end and upgrading to an all-metal one. That anyone--cough, cough Creality and others in the inexpensive intro printer market--is shipping them on any of their printers in 2023 is just insane. 0. https://www.captubes.com/safety.html https://www.captubes.com/safety.html
  - tomn 3y ago
    I think it is less of a problem than it used to be, but historically PTFE-lined hot ends have been prefered for budget machines because they are more forgiving if all you want to do is print PLA. When everything is working right there should be no difference, but when things go wrong, not having plastic stuck to the heat break makes it more likely that a beginner can fix their own problem.
alias_neo 3y ago
I switched to a Hemera direct drive hotend, there are better options now, but you may not need that depending on what an S1 has OOB. The big change is the enclosure, doesn't have to be fancy, mine is a couple of IKEA LACK tables with some acrylic duct taped on and a door duct- taped on only one side. I upgraded from Marlin to Kipper and tuned for resonance which lets you achieve much better speeds and quality than a stock E3v2

wccrawford 3y ago

Sounds like your printer looked identical to mine at one point! I've since upgraded with with a klicky probe, then removed that and went Tap. I'm looking at replacing the Stealthburner with something with better cooling as it's definitely not good enough, even after replacing the fan that came with my LDO kit with an even better fan. I built mine in about a week while my wife was out of town with a friend, though. :D I have had a lot of problems getting it to be reliable, though. I've replaced a lot of parts and did a lot of upgrades. I'm finally at a point where the only thing I might "fix" would be to replace the belts because I'm pretty sure they're stretching little by little still, even after months. That said, it was more "reliable" out of the box than my 2 TronXY printers. It's just that I want it to be less stressful. I've seriously considered a Bambu because of that, but at this point I think mine is a match for them, so it's only the multi-color capability that has me interested in them now.

SystemOut 3y ago
Have you taken a look at the https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger project?
- wccrawford 3y ago
  I don't think I had, no. Thanks! I might try to turn one of my older printers into a franken-voron and see if I can make that work. Edit: Just noticed that I'd already starred it on Github, so I guess I had, but had decided against it. I wonder if it was labeled as in-progress at that point? Anyhow, seems like it's worth pursuing. Thanks!
linsomniac 3y ago
>I've seriously considered a Bambu I've been there, I've told my Ender 3 Pro (plus lots of upgrades) that if it Fs up ONE MORE TIME I'm getting a Bambu. BUT... A friend of mine recently got a Bambu, partly because of my saying this, and he's been having problems with it: the LiDAR is having issues and support is being unsupportive. In the mean time my E3 has been super reliable and I've finally gotten it really dialed in (only took 4 years). I took a nearly year long side quest, replacing my original Sprite extruder/hot end with a second unit, until I could get the giant clump of plastic removed after a failed print, and apparently that second Sprite shipped with a bad nozzle. I finally happened on replacing the nozzle and things got instantly better. I've always wanted to build a Voron, but this set of problems tuning my E3 have left me burned out. On the Bambu front: my buddy wants to print primarily carbon fiber parts, so his use of it is more demanding than what mine would be, but it really gave me pause about my plan of getting a Bambu.