8 ms·

Let's build a VORON Trident

66 points by lawn 3y ago

delecti 3y ago
Wow, a 3d printing novice jumping straight into building a VORON is an ambitious move.
quchen 3y ago
Ha, I wrote something similar for my 2.4 build! (Mobile data warning, it’s one long .md with pictures) https://github.com/quchen/voron/blob/master/buildlog.md https://github.com/quchen/voron/blob/master/buildlog.md
alias_neo 3y ago
OP is using the _exact_ colour scheme I used for my VORON 2.4r2 (350^2). I clicked through and for a moment thought I might be looking at one of my own photos, great taste OP! The Voron community is incredible and the Vorons themselves are incredible, there's so much scope (and precedent) for amazing modifications; i.e. my 2.4 kit came with Afterburner and some lower spec parts, but I built it from the get-go with Stealthburner and umbilical (CAN Bus) with an upgrade from the rubbish, V60 clone it came with to a Phaetus Dragon HF and a bunch of other modifications and upgrades. It took me about two-month's worth of evenings, taking my time to build it (much of the reason for choosing it was that I enjoy building things). Before that, I spent about a month upgrading my Ender 3 v2 so it could print ABS for all of the parts the Voron would need and building an enclosure out of IKEA tables, it was a pretty impressive bed-slinger, running Klipper by the time I was done, putting the stock E3v2 to shame. It still sits beside the Voron for emergencies, but it hasn't printed anything in quite a while now. Start printing with a properly tuned Voron, at speed, for the first time though, after having spent all that time building it, and you'll be grinning ear to ear.
- mywacaday 3y ago
  I'm at the start of same journey you took with my Ender 3 S1, I bough the Creality Sonic pad but haven't installed it yet. What other changes did you make to print ABS, any recommendations?
  - dotnet00 3y ago
    The big two I'd recommend are an enclosure and an activated carbon filter (preferably an activated carbon+HEPA filter). With Ender 3's, you have the option of simple tent enclosures, they're ugly, but work well. This will help keep the enclosure warm, improving the reliability of ABS printing by both reducing warping (although this also comes down to the quality of filament) and improving bed adhesion. The activated carbon filter will keep the fumes under control. I use a Bentobox filter, which uses both activated carbon and a HEPA filter, but Nevermore filters are also very popular. That said, if you haven't bought it already, I'd recommend considering ASA instead of ABS. I recently tried ASA for the first time, and it is so much more of a pleasant experience compared to ABS, haven't seen any warping yet and produces far less fumes.
    - MegaDeKay 3y ago
      I'm skeptical on most internal filters that include a HEPA filter. I don't think those little fans have enough CFM and static pressure that they can push enough air through both the carbon pellets and the HEPA filter so both they can effectively do their job. The thing with VOCs is you can smell them and know that the filter is or isn't doing its job. Not so with microparticles, for which you need to get a sensor to measure them. And, of course, even sealed printers leak air (I'm looking at you, default Voron split door). My Trident has a Nevermore V5 Duo for VOCs only. I picked up a nice big Honeywell air clearer with a monster HEPA filter in it that turns over the air like crazy to deal with microparticles. As a bonus, I can use the Honeywell for those times like forest fire season when the air quality is bad.
      - dotnet00 3y ago
        I don't really know if the HEPA is doing its thing, but I got higher static pressure GDSTIME 5015 fans and can feel the airflow out the other end, past both the HEPA and carbon. As far as visual 'evidence', I can only go off the HEPA filter having turned pink after a printing with a lot of red filament. I mostly just keep it in because the pack of 10 filters was cheap, and the carbon is still doing its job despite the HEPA.
- wccrawford 3y ago
  Sounds like your printer looked identical to mine at one point! I've since upgraded with with a klicky probe, then removed that and went Tap. I'm looking at replacing the Stealthburner with something with better cooling as it's definitely not good enough, even after replacing the fan that came with my LDO kit with an even better fan. I built mine in about a week while my wife was out of town with a friend, though. :D I have had a lot of problems getting it to be reliable, though. I've replaced a lot of parts and did a lot of upgrades. I'm finally at a point where the only thing I might "fix" would be to replace the belts because I'm pretty sure they're stretching little by little still, even after months. That said, it was more "reliable" out of the box than my 2 TronXY printers. It's just that I want it to be less stressful. I've seriously considered a Bambu because of that, but at this point I think mine is a match for them, so it's only the multi-color capability that has me interested in them now.
  - SystemOut 3y ago
    Have you taken a look at the https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger project?
    - wccrawford 3y ago
      I don't think I had, no. Thanks! I might try to turn one of my older printers into a franken-voron and see if I can make that work. Edit: Just noticed that I'd already starred it on Github, so I guess I had, but had decided against it. I wonder if it was labeled as in-progress at that point? Anyhow, seems like it's worth pursuing. Thanks!
  - linsomniac 3y ago
    >I've seriously considered a Bambu I've been there, I've told my Ender 3 Pro (plus lots of upgrades) that if it Fs up ONE MORE TIME I'm getting a Bambu. BUT... A friend of mine recently got a Bambu, partly because of my saying this, and he's been having problems with it: the LiDAR is having issues and support is being unsupportive. In the mean time my E3 has been super reliable and I've finally gotten it really dialed in (only took 4 years). I took a nearly year long side quest, replacing my original Sprite extruder/hot end with a second unit, until I could get the giant clump of plastic removed after a failed print, and apparently that second Sprite shipped with a bad nozzle. I finally happened on replacing the nozzle and things got instantly better. I've always wanted to build a Voron, but this set of problems tuning my E3 have left me burned out. On the Bambu front: my buddy wants to print primarily carbon fiber parts, so his use of it is more demanding than what mine would be, but it really gave me pause about my plan of getting a Bambu.
gorkish 3y ago
> I’m not a 3D printer expert—in fact I’m a complete beginner and I’ve never even held a 3D printed part in my hand before—so don’t expect any deep insights from this series. Voron build instructions sort of have an implied "Step 0" which is "Have a working 3d printer." I first jumped into 3d printing by doing something equally insane -- I scratch built a delta printer (not from a kit or plans). TBH I would not recommend this type of approach whatsoever. It would have been much wiser and more productive to have started with a basic working machine first. Given the cost and performance of entry level machines today, there's really not any good rationale to do otherwise unless you are a self-loathing masochist.
- lawn 3y ago
  > Voron build instructions sort of have an implied "Step 0" which is "Have a working 3d printer." This just isn't true, as proven by OP. You do need printed parts, but the VORON print-it-forward program is great and I think it's a great way to get started.
  - gorkish 3y ago
    I agree to the extent that the Voron ecosystem has developed to the point where it's actually possible to buy and build a complete kit and have a working machine at the end. This has not always been the case for these high performance hobby designs where you have to cobble together everything on the BoM, deal with the lack of instructions, maybe have to customize or source some different parts that changed, etc. I'm happy to know that the situation is much improved. Also I am curious if you happen to have a Voron, do you have any other printers?
    - lawn 3y ago
      I'm the OP, and no I don't. (I've ordered a VORON 0 now though.)
      - gorkish 3y ago
        > I've ordered a VORON 0 now though. I rest my case :) Enjoy your printers!
ActionHank 3y ago
One of us, one of us
jeroen79 3y ago
Looks like a nice printer, but the kits seems damn expensive. Are there kits that just include all metal parts and that are cheaper?
- blutack 3y ago
  The LDO kits are the top end of the price bracket. A friend is building up one of these and is fairly happy with it: https://magicphoenix.xyz/product/voron-v2-4-customized-kit/ https://magicphoenix.xyz/product/voron-v2-4-customized-kit/ They also have Trident kits. I've also built a Siboor V0.2 kit and was happy with it for the money.
- wxyangf 3y ago
  You actually don't want all metal parts for how voron printers are designed. A lot of parts on the gantry rely on the flex of the plastic to be able to do self calibration and leveling. Metal would be more likely to fatigue and undergo plastic deformation that would bring it out out of spec or into a complete failure mode. there are CNCd parts available from various vendors, but they usually have design alterations to account for the aforementioned increase flex tolerance and also to make them more economical (or just possible) to machine. Those parts usually are heavier as well and can have a negative effect on the resonance and inertia of the gantries reducing print speed. There's been a lot of discussion on this at various points in the voron design discord (serious discoverability problem compared to forums and the such :P ) about this. In terms of price, electronics and motions components are just expensive, especially if you want reliable parts. Metal parts would also increase the price because machining is more expensive than printing by quite a bit.
  - kaylynb 3y ago
    Another advantage of printed parts is it's easy to use alternative part designs. There are lots of variants on the standard parts that you most likely will start replacing stock parts with as soon as you get addicted.
  - jeroen79 3y ago
    Well i meant i just want to buy all parts that have to be metal in one kit, and print all i can myself.
dotnet00 3y ago
Building a Voron is on my list of things to absolutely do this year. I got into 3d printing at the start of last year with an Ender 3 clone, and by the end of the year I had ended up building a Mercury One.1 printer and recently an ERCF. It's a ton of experimentation and calibration to do, but it's so satisfying to build this kind of machine, being someone who has always enjoyed making stuff, but has mostly focused on making software.
alimbada 3y ago
Would be nice to know how much this cost the author. I've been considering getting myself a 3D printer recently too. The Bambu Lab P1S/P1P is looking like the best option for me so far.
- lawn 3y ago
  It cost me a.bit more than 20k SEK (or around 2k EUR). You can do it a lot cheaper if you select another kit apart from LDO, but then you'd have to be a bit more knowledgeable on how to tell if a part isn't up to par.
- blutack 3y ago
  Price-wise a P1S will work out cheaper unless you get a really poor quality Trident kit (which I wouldn't do). If you just want to print stuff (like if the printer is to support another hobby, or you have a business) get a P1S/X1C or a Prusa MK4. I wouldn't personally bother with an AMS until down the line when you're sure you need it. VORONs are fantastic if you want a fun and very well documented robot building project, and at the end you get something pretty comparable to a Bambu. It can be a frustrating process at times but you'll learn a lot about a variety of interesting stuff. The printers are also massively hackable and moddable, and they have larger build plate options (although ~250mm^2 is realistically enough for most home users). Bambu is the exact opposite mentality, fully closed source, they work incredibly well but are effectively a black box. Think Linux vs Mac. Another option would be to see if you have a local maker/hackerspace, they will usually have at least one decent printer.
  - matthew-wegner 3y ago
    > I wouldn't personally bother with an AMS until down the line when you're sure you need it. If the parent comment plans to print a lot of large parts, AMS will be useful. You can load multiple spools of the same filament, and a Bambu printer will switch spools when it runs out and continue printing without any intervention needed...
    - Baeocystin 3y ago
dcminter 3y ago
When I was thinking about getting a 3D printer I asked a few friends what they used theirs for. Vague answers. When I asked what they last printed they almost all seemed to be printing a new part for their printer... I swore I wouldn't do that. I didn't keep the vow, but didn't break it quite as thoroughly as I expected - though I did do several other upgrades to it in addition (commercial parts). I use it quite a bit; it can be infuriating when it's being temperamental, but enormously satisfying when something I designed from scratch works out well. I've had quite a few requests from my wife for miscellaneous bits and pieces too, so everyone's happy.
CarVac 3y ago
There's so much to the world of high performance printers beyond Vorons. I'm heavily modding my Kingroon KLP1 to print with 65°C chamber temperature for ASA, and building a The 100 for ultra high speed printing. There's ever-escalating material printing capability you can desire, necessitating higher and higher chamber temperatures, with requisite engineering challenges (matched thermal expansion coefficients, kinematic mounts for the bed, part and hotend cooling, keeping motors cool, bearing lifespan...)
- dotnet00 3y ago
  Is there any reason you're aiming specifically for a temperature as high as 65C? Maybe working up to really high end stuff like PEEK? In my experience, ASA and even PC does fine even with a much easier to maintain 40C.
  - CarVac 3y ago
    Higher chamber temperatures completely eliminate warping (no brims needed ever) and improve layer adhesion.
- rcarmo 3y ago
  I was looking at the KLP1 (I have a KP3S Pro[0]) but ended up getting an SK1[1], which has a bigger volume (but is not enclosed yet, and I want to print ASA as well). [0] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2023/09/16/2000 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2023/09/16/2000 [1] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900
  - CarVac 3y ago
    The SK1 looks interesting. BTW the part cooling fan looks to be similarly shaped to the KLP1 one: https://kingroon.com/collections/kingroon-klp1-3d-printer-replacement-parts-accessories/products/5015-blower-fan-24v-12v-for-kingroon-kp3s-pro-v2-klp1 https://kingroon.com/collections/kingroon-klp1-3d-printer-re...
    - 3y ago
rcarmo 3y ago
I love the Trident. I was looking to get a kit for it (or for a RatRig V-Core [0], which shares the bed leveling mechanism). I am now starting to mod an SK1 [1] (prebuilt Bambu clone) and enjoying the process, but still haven't given up on the idea of getting a Voron kit because you get so much more control over what you can customize (plus the building experience is something I thing you should go through to fully understand the printer). [0] https://docs.ratrig.com/product-details/v-core3-1 https://docs.ratrig.com/product-details/v-core3-1 [1] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900
rcarmo 3y ago
I was reading part 10 (Noise) and was aondering if anyone has ever tackled the problem of ambient noise cancellation with these things. Any literature out there?
- dotnet00 3y ago
  Regarding printer noise itself, while I haven't seen anything specifically about noise, I have seen ideas like having a counterweight toolhead mirroring the printer's movements to cancel out vibrations, more intended to allow higher speeds rather than worrying about noise though.
cthalupa 3y ago
My Voron2.4 build was one of the most fun projects I've had. Keeping it running in top form has been... more effort than my Prusa printers. Don't regret it, though. I am interested in building one of the Annex-Engineering medium format printers, but haven't found the time.
aschla 3y ago
I had some of the most satisfying fun I’ve ever had putting together my 0.2. It’s like Lego but with the extra satisfaction that comes from printing some of the parts yourself, and you get a high-quality, modifiable, useful tool when you’re done. And now I’m printing the parts for a 2.4, using the 0.2.
dazhbog 3y ago
Coming from the original wooden ultimaker v1.. If you just wanna print and get on with your life get a Bambu. If you want to play with printers, build a voron, modify an ender 3.. I have an X1C with AMS (local wifi only) and I literally treat it like a traditional A4 paper printer. Press print and leave the room. And the AMS is great for printing supports that snap easily..

66 points by lawn 3y ago

Wow, a 3d printing novice jumping straight into building a VORON is an ambitious move.

Ha, I wrote something similar for my 2.4 build! (Mobile data warning, it’s one long .md with pictures) https://github.com/quchen/voron/blob/master/buildlog.md https://github.com/quchen/voron/blob/master/buildlog.md

alias_neo 3y ago

OP is using the _exact_ colour scheme I used for my VORON 2.4r2 (350^2). I clicked through and for a moment thought I might be looking at one of my own photos, great taste OP! The Voron community is incredible and the Vorons themselves are incredible, there's so much scope (and precedent) for amazing modifications; i.e. my 2.4 kit came with Afterburner and some lower spec parts, but I built it from the get-go with Stealthburner and umbilical (CAN Bus) with an upgrade from the rubbish, V60 clone it came with to a Phaetus Dragon HF and a bunch of other modifications and upgrades. It took me about two-month's worth of evenings, taking my time to build it (much of the reason for choosing it was that I enjoy building things). Before that, I spent about a month upgrading my Ender 3 v2 so it could print ABS for all of the parts the Voron would need and building an enclosure out of IKEA tables, it was a pretty impressive bed-slinger, running Klipper by the time I was done, putting the stock E3v2 to shame. It still sits beside the Voron for emergencies, but it hasn't printed anything in quite a while now. Start printing with a properly tuned Voron, at speed, for the first time though, after having spent all that time building it, and you'll be grinning ear to ear.

mywacaday 3y ago
I'm at the start of same journey you took with my Ender 3 S1, I bough the Creality Sonic pad but haven't installed it yet. What other changes did you make to print ABS, any recommendations?
- dotnet00 3y ago
  The big two I'd recommend are an enclosure and an activated carbon filter (preferably an activated carbon+HEPA filter). With Ender 3's, you have the option of simple tent enclosures, they're ugly, but work well. This will help keep the enclosure warm, improving the reliability of ABS printing by both reducing warping (although this also comes down to the quality of filament) and improving bed adhesion. The activated carbon filter will keep the fumes under control. I use a Bentobox filter, which uses both activated carbon and a HEPA filter, but Nevermore filters are also very popular. That said, if you haven't bought it already, I'd recommend considering ASA instead of ABS. I recently tried ASA for the first time, and it is so much more of a pleasant experience compared to ABS, haven't seen any warping yet and produces far less fumes.
  - MegaDeKay 3y ago
    I'm skeptical on most internal filters that include a HEPA filter. I don't think those little fans have enough CFM and static pressure that they can push enough air through both the carbon pellets and the HEPA filter so both they can effectively do their job. The thing with VOCs is you can smell them and know that the filter is or isn't doing its job. Not so with microparticles, for which you need to get a sensor to measure them. And, of course, even sealed printers leak air (I'm looking at you, default Voron split door). My Trident has a Nevermore V5 Duo for VOCs only. I picked up a nice big Honeywell air clearer with a monster HEPA filter in it that turns over the air like crazy to deal with microparticles. As a bonus, I can use the Honeywell for those times like forest fire season when the air quality is bad.
    - dotnet00 3y ago
      I don't really know if the HEPA is doing its thing, but I got higher static pressure GDSTIME 5015 fans and can feel the airflow out the other end, past both the HEPA and carbon. As far as visual 'evidence', I can only go off the HEPA filter having turned pink after a printing with a lot of red filament. I mostly just keep it in because the pack of 10 filters was cheap, and the carbon is still doing its job despite the HEPA.
wccrawford 3y ago
Sounds like your printer looked identical to mine at one point! I've since upgraded with with a klicky probe, then removed that and went Tap. I'm looking at replacing the Stealthburner with something with better cooling as it's definitely not good enough, even after replacing the fan that came with my LDO kit with an even better fan. I built mine in about a week while my wife was out of town with a friend, though. :D I have had a lot of problems getting it to be reliable, though. I've replaced a lot of parts and did a lot of upgrades. I'm finally at a point where the only thing I might "fix" would be to replace the belts because I'm pretty sure they're stretching little by little still, even after months. That said, it was more "reliable" out of the box than my 2 TronXY printers. It's just that I want it to be less stressful. I've seriously considered a Bambu because of that, but at this point I think mine is a match for them, so it's only the multi-color capability that has me interested in them now.
- SystemOut 3y ago
  Have you taken a look at the https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger https://github.com/viesturz/tapchanger project?
  - wccrawford 3y ago
    I don't think I had, no. Thanks! I might try to turn one of my older printers into a franken-voron and see if I can make that work. Edit: Just noticed that I'd already starred it on Github, so I guess I had, but had decided against it. I wonder if it was labeled as in-progress at that point? Anyhow, seems like it's worth pursuing. Thanks!
- linsomniac 3y ago
  >I've seriously considered a Bambu I've been there, I've told my Ender 3 Pro (plus lots of upgrades) that if it Fs up ONE MORE TIME I'm getting a Bambu. BUT... A friend of mine recently got a Bambu, partly because of my saying this, and he's been having problems with it: the LiDAR is having issues and support is being unsupportive. In the mean time my E3 has been super reliable and I've finally gotten it really dialed in (only took 4 years). I took a nearly year long side quest, replacing my original Sprite extruder/hot end with a second unit, until I could get the giant clump of plastic removed after a failed print, and apparently that second Sprite shipped with a bad nozzle. I finally happened on replacing the nozzle and things got instantly better. I've always wanted to build a Voron, but this set of problems tuning my E3 have left me burned out. On the Bambu front: my buddy wants to print primarily carbon fiber parts, so his use of it is more demanding than what mine would be, but it really gave me pause about my plan of getting a Bambu.

gorkish 3y ago

> I’m not a 3D printer expert—in fact I’m a complete beginner and I’ve never even held a 3D printed part in my hand before—so don’t expect any deep insights from this series. Voron build instructions sort of have an implied "Step 0" which is "Have a working 3d printer." I first jumped into 3d printing by doing something equally insane -- I scratch built a delta printer (not from a kit or plans). TBH I would not recommend this type of approach whatsoever. It would have been much wiser and more productive to have started with a basic working machine first. Given the cost and performance of entry level machines today, there's really not any good rationale to do otherwise unless you are a self-loathing masochist.

lawn 3y ago
> Voron build instructions sort of have an implied "Step 0" which is "Have a working 3d printer." This just isn't true, as proven by OP. You do need printed parts, but the VORON print-it-forward program is great and I think it's a great way to get started.
- gorkish 3y ago
  I agree to the extent that the Voron ecosystem has developed to the point where it's actually possible to buy and build a complete kit and have a working machine at the end. This has not always been the case for these high performance hobby designs where you have to cobble together everything on the BoM, deal with the lack of instructions, maybe have to customize or source some different parts that changed, etc. I'm happy to know that the situation is much improved. Also I am curious if you happen to have a Voron, do you have any other printers?
  - lawn 3y ago
    I'm the OP, and no I don't. (I've ordered a VORON 0 now though.)
    - gorkish 3y ago
      > I've ordered a VORON 0 now though. I rest my case :) Enjoy your printers!

ActionHank 3y ago

One of us, one of us

jeroen79 3y ago

Looks like a nice printer, but the kits seems damn expensive. Are there kits that just include all metal parts and that are cheaper?

blutack 3y ago
The LDO kits are the top end of the price bracket. A friend is building up one of these and is fairly happy with it: https://magicphoenix.xyz/product/voron-v2-4-customized-kit/ https://magicphoenix.xyz/product/voron-v2-4-customized-kit/ They also have Trident kits. I've also built a Siboor V0.2 kit and was happy with it for the money.
wxyangf 3y ago
You actually don't want all metal parts for how voron printers are designed. A lot of parts on the gantry rely on the flex of the plastic to be able to do self calibration and leveling. Metal would be more likely to fatigue and undergo plastic deformation that would bring it out out of spec or into a complete failure mode. there are CNCd parts available from various vendors, but they usually have design alterations to account for the aforementioned increase flex tolerance and also to make them more economical (or just possible) to machine. Those parts usually are heavier as well and can have a negative effect on the resonance and inertia of the gantries reducing print speed. There's been a lot of discussion on this at various points in the voron design discord (serious discoverability problem compared to forums and the such :P ) about this. In terms of price, electronics and motions components are just expensive, especially if you want reliable parts. Metal parts would also increase the price because machining is more expensive than printing by quite a bit.
- kaylynb 3y ago
  Another advantage of printed parts is it's easy to use alternative part designs. There are lots of variants on the standard parts that you most likely will start replacing stock parts with as soon as you get addicted.
- jeroen79 3y ago
  Well i meant i just want to buy all parts that have to be metal in one kit, and print all i can myself.

dotnet00 3y ago

Building a Voron is on my list of things to absolutely do this year. I got into 3d printing at the start of last year with an Ender 3 clone, and by the end of the year I had ended up building a Mercury One.1 printer and recently an ERCF. It's a ton of experimentation and calibration to do, but it's so satisfying to build this kind of machine, being someone who has always enjoyed making stuff, but has mostly focused on making software.

alimbada 3y ago

Would be nice to know how much this cost the author. I've been considering getting myself a 3D printer recently too. The Bambu Lab P1S/P1P is looking like the best option for me so far.

lawn 3y ago
It cost me a.bit more than 20k SEK (or around 2k EUR). You can do it a lot cheaper if you select another kit apart from LDO, but then you'd have to be a bit more knowledgeable on how to tell if a part isn't up to par.
blutack 3y ago
Price-wise a P1S will work out cheaper unless you get a really poor quality Trident kit (which I wouldn't do). If you just want to print stuff (like if the printer is to support another hobby, or you have a business) get a P1S/X1C or a Prusa MK4. I wouldn't personally bother with an AMS until down the line when you're sure you need it. VORONs are fantastic if you want a fun and very well documented robot building project, and at the end you get something pretty comparable to a Bambu. It can be a frustrating process at times but you'll learn a lot about a variety of interesting stuff. The printers are also massively hackable and moddable, and they have larger build plate options (although ~250mm^2 is realistically enough for most home users). Bambu is the exact opposite mentality, fully closed source, they work incredibly well but are effectively a black box. Think Linux vs Mac. Another option would be to see if you have a local maker/hackerspace, they will usually have at least one decent printer.
- matthew-wegner 3y ago
  > I wouldn't personally bother with an AMS until down the line when you're sure you need it. If the parent comment plans to print a lot of large parts, AMS will be useful. You can load multiple spools of the same filament, and a Bambu printer will switch spools when it runs out and continue printing without any intervention needed...
  - Baeocystin 3y ago

dcminter 3y ago

When I was thinking about getting a 3D printer I asked a few friends what they used theirs for. Vague answers. When I asked what they last printed they almost all seemed to be printing a new part for their printer... I swore I wouldn't do that. I didn't keep the vow, but didn't break it quite as thoroughly as I expected - though I did do several other upgrades to it in addition (commercial parts). I use it quite a bit; it can be infuriating when it's being temperamental, but enormously satisfying when something I designed from scratch works out well. I've had quite a few requests from my wife for miscellaneous bits and pieces too, so everyone's happy.

CarVac 3y ago

There's so much to the world of high performance printers beyond Vorons. I'm heavily modding my Kingroon KLP1 to print with 65°C chamber temperature for ASA, and building a The 100 for ultra high speed printing. There's ever-escalating material printing capability you can desire, necessitating higher and higher chamber temperatures, with requisite engineering challenges (matched thermal expansion coefficients, kinematic mounts for the bed, part and hotend cooling, keeping motors cool, bearing lifespan...)

dotnet00 3y ago
Is there any reason you're aiming specifically for a temperature as high as 65C? Maybe working up to really high end stuff like PEEK? In my experience, ASA and even PC does fine even with a much easier to maintain 40C.
- CarVac 3y ago
  Higher chamber temperatures completely eliminate warping (no brims needed ever) and improve layer adhesion.
rcarmo 3y ago
I was looking at the KLP1 (I have a KP3S Pro[0]) but ended up getting an SK1[1], which has a bigger volume (but is not enclosed yet, and I want to print ASA as well). [0] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2023/09/16/2000 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2023/09/16/2000 [1] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900
- CarVac 3y ago
  The SK1 looks interesting. BTW the part cooling fan looks to be similarly shaped to the KLP1 one: https://kingroon.com/collections/kingroon-klp1-3d-printer-replacement-parts-accessories/products/5015-blower-fan-24v-12v-for-kingroon-kp3s-pro-v2-klp1 https://kingroon.com/collections/kingroon-klp1-3d-printer-re...
  - 3y ago

rcarmo 3y ago

I love the Trident. I was looking to get a kit for it (or for a RatRig V-Core [0], which shares the bed leveling mechanism). I am now starting to mod an SK1 [1] (prebuilt Bambu clone) and enjoying the process, but still haven't given up on the idea of getting a Voron kit because you get so much more control over what you can customize (plus the building experience is something I thing you should go through to fully understand the printer). [0] https://docs.ratrig.com/product-details/v-core3-1 https://docs.ratrig.com/product-details/v-core3-1 [1] https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900 https://taoofmac.com/space/blog/2024/03/02/1900

rcarmo 3y ago

I was reading part 10 (Noise) and was aondering if anyone has ever tackled the problem of ambient noise cancellation with these things. Any literature out there?

dotnet00 3y ago
Regarding printer noise itself, while I haven't seen anything specifically about noise, I have seen ideas like having a counterweight toolhead mirroring the printer's movements to cancel out vibrations, more intended to allow higher speeds rather than worrying about noise though.

cthalupa 3y ago

My Voron2.4 build was one of the most fun projects I've had. Keeping it running in top form has been... more effort than my Prusa printers. Don't regret it, though. I am interested in building one of the Annex-Engineering medium format printers, but haven't found the time.

aschla 3y ago

I had some of the most satisfying fun I’ve ever had putting together my 0.2. It’s like Lego but with the extra satisfaction that comes from printing some of the parts yourself, and you get a high-quality, modifiable, useful tool when you’re done. And now I’m printing the parts for a 2.4, using the 0.2.

dazhbog 3y ago

Coming from the original wooden ultimaker v1.. If you just wanna print and get on with your life get a Bambu. If you want to play with printers, build a voron, modify an ender 3.. I have an X1C with AMS (local wifi only) and I literally treat it like a traditional A4 paper printer. Press print and leave the room. And the AMS is great for printing supports that snap easily..