3 ms·

> Typical store bought smart sockets are 1.5A That sounds like a raw deal, just off the top of my head: Shelly, 12A - https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/

> Typical store bought smart sockets are 1.5A That sounds like a raw deal, just off the top of my head: Shelly, 12A - https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-plug-s https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-plug-s Local Bytes, 13/16A - https://www.mylocalbytes.com/en-eu/products/smart-plug-pm https://www.mylocalbytes.com/en-eu/products/smart-plug-pm Sonoff, 10A - https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-s26-wifi-smart-plug/ https://itead.cc/product/sonoff-s26-wifi-smart-plug/ Athom, 16A - https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/esp32-c3-eu-plug-for-esphome https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/esp32-c3-eu-plug-for-esphome (Most of these have US equivalents) > this is from a brand with a reasonably good reputation Please name them.

jacquesm 3y ago
> Please name them. KlikAan/KlikUit aka 'Trust Smarthome', socket type ACC-250-LD, it's a 250 W remote control dimmer socket but on the front it is labelled 16/250 which for lay people would probably be highly confusing because it refers to the plug, not to the capacity of the device. The small print on the front of the plug part (so unreadable once it is plugged in...) is where the 1.136A rating is specified. Such small mistakes can have big consequences. A nice fat 250W MAX rating stamped on the socket side (black is fine, but red would be better) would go a long way towards dealing with my irritation about this stuff.
- sdflhasjd 3y ago
  That's due to it being a dimmer, which probably uses a triac or other semiconductor component for switching. The mechanical relay types are more popular and higher current.
  - jacquesm 3y ago
    Absolutely, but that's not an excuse for their shoddy labeling.
quickthrowman 3y ago
I would use a real relay to switch line voltage power, like one of these: https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/ribu1c/ https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/ribu1c/ It has a 10-30v (and 120v)control coil so you can use a low voltage circuit to control it.
- jacquesm 3y ago
  Those look pretty serious.
  - quickthrowman 3y ago
    Switching line voltage current is serious, I’ll take an enclosed relay with a UL listing over an aliexpress special. This one is more suitable for use with an ESP8266, it has a pair of dry contact inputs and switches 120v-277v that could be triggered with GPIO: https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/rib01bdc/ https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/rib01bdc/
    - jacquesm 3y ago
      I'll keep those in mind. I do this sort of thing all the time and I ended up building a custom ESP8266 unit to switch my heater on and off based on a bunch of remote thermometer readings in the house. The decision is a bit tricky: keep the pump running but the heater off to spread the heat more evenly or to fire up the boiler as well. So with some HA scripting that works super reliable but from a hardware perspective it could still be improve on and your supplier looks like it just what I was looking for when I was building this but couldn't find something suitable. Thanks!

jacquesm 3y ago

> Please name them. KlikAan/KlikUit aka 'Trust Smarthome', socket type ACC-250-LD, it's a 250 W remote control dimmer socket but on the front it is labelled 16/250 which for lay people would probably be highly confusing because it refers to the plug, not to the capacity of the device. The small print on the front of the plug part (so unreadable once it is plugged in...) is where the 1.136A rating is specified. Such small mistakes can have big consequences. A nice fat 250W MAX rating stamped on the socket side (black is fine, but red would be better) would go a long way towards dealing with my irritation about this stuff.

sdflhasjd 3y ago
That's due to it being a dimmer, which probably uses a triac or other semiconductor component for switching. The mechanical relay types are more popular and higher current.
- jacquesm 3y ago
  Absolutely, but that's not an excuse for their shoddy labeling.

quickthrowman 3y ago

I would use a real relay to switch line voltage power, like one of these: https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/ribu1c/ https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/ribu1c/ It has a 10-30v (and 120v)control coil so you can use a low voltage circuit to control it.

jacquesm 3y ago
Those look pretty serious.
- quickthrowman 3y ago
  Switching line voltage current is serious, I’ll take an enclosed relay with a UL listing over an aliexpress special. This one is more suitable for use with an ESP8266, it has a pair of dry contact inputs and switches 120v-277v that could be triggered with GPIO: https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/rib01bdc/ https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/rib01bdc/
  - jacquesm 3y ago
    I'll keep those in mind. I do this sort of thing all the time and I ended up building a custom ESP8266 unit to switch my heater on and off based on a bunch of remote thermometer readings in the house. The decision is a bit tricky: keep the pump running but the heater off to spread the heat more evenly or to fire up the boiler as well. So with some HA scripting that works super reliable but from a hardware perspective it could still be improve on and your supplier looks like it just what I was looking for when I was building this but couldn't find something suitable. Thanks!