It saves energy to let the house get colder overnight when we can rely on bedding to keep us warm. With a lower differential between indoors and outdoors, there

It saves energy to let the house get colder overnight when we can rely on bedding to keep us warm. With a lower differential between indoors and outdoors, there is less total energy lost to the outside than if we held a constant target. I'm only dropping the set point about 5 degrees, not disabling heat entirely. Then the morning heat is to make it easier to get out of bed and start the day. We stop it again to take advantage of the common solar gain. But also, it doesn't take as much heat to feel comfortable once we've eaten and gotten more active for the day. For the roof, it is just one of the "cool roof" compliant asphalt shingle systems, with full plywood sheathing. We did not retrofit radiant-barrier sheathing, as there is fine print that this could overheat the shingles. As far as I can tell, the same performance to reject solar load in summer also reduces radiant loss in winter. Vaulted ceilings feel less exposed on a cold winter night. For windows, I applied Gila "heat control" film found at the local Home Depot. It is a modestly cool gray tint that looks only a little bit mirror-like from the outside, not too different from modern low-e glass. It takes a little practice to get satisfying results with the DIY application. I just used a spray bottle filled with tap water with a few drops of dishwashing soap, rather than any proprietary application fluid. Regarding heat perception, it is air temperature, air movement, and radiant effects. In winter, you may feel colder facing an exterior wall or ceiling than with an extra room or story between you and the outside. Or facing a window versus having heavy drapes pulled shut. This is even if the air in contact with your body is the same temperature.