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A question for both of you. Did you make your own Dreame Breakout PCB, or did you buy one from someone, or did you wire in directly?
by rbut 3y ago
A question for both of you. Did you make your own Dreame Breakout PCB, or did you buy one from someone, or did you wire in directly?
- MostlyStable 3y agoWhen I did it, it just required plugging wires into the port. The only difficulty I had was that it was a slightly unusual spacing so I struggled slightly to stick the jumper wires in, but after that it worked fine. Have subsequent Z10s changed this? Ok after reading the docs, it looks like that board specifically fixes the non standard pitch. I managed without it, but I did have some difficulties with poor connection that the board would have avoided
- nsagent 3y agoYeah, that was my same experience. It was a tight fit, but certainly doable.
- BHSPitMonkey 3y agoI just poked wires in.
- rhim 3y agoI currently have the same problem, I would like to root my dreame roboter, but unfortunately I can't get the components for the dreame PCB, or nobody sells me a ready soldered dreame PCB. Too bad there is no alternative, but that makes it really hard for people with a dreame robot to use the project.
- matthew-wegner 3y agoAlso chiming in that wiring in directly is easy. There are two types of Dreame rooting: * Connects to robot's serial port. You'll need a USB-to-TTL cable if you don't have one around to connect to your computer. Z10 Pro uses this method. * Connects to robot's USB port (still via the debug header). You'll need three of the four wires from a USB cable. You can literally cut open a USB cable here, or get a breakout board. L10s Ultra uses this method. Plus misc jumper wires to connect it all. The boot button is connecting a wire to boot select, a wire to ground, and touching these wires together (really, the PCB is all three of these things: boot button + serial + direct USB).