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Exactly. Where can I actually BUY these batteries that would fit to AA, AAA etc..
by romanovcode 3y ago
Exactly. Where can I actually BUY these batteries that would fit to AA, AAA etc..
- deleted 3y ago[deleted]
- xxs 3y agoRetrofitting is =dumb=, like very dumb. The nominal voltages are different to begin with. However not that only - retrofitting in general is not a bright idea: case in point LEDs into E27/E17 incandescent fixtures.
- benj111 3y agoWhy not? In the case of bulbs you could get a better form factor, but no one's doing that, they're just using non replaceable bulbs. Batteries. Are you going to get rid of your TV just so you can use a different battery chemistry? There have been various chemistries available in AA. Would you rather we have even more battery sizes to keep track of?
- xxs 3y ago> Why not? B/c the LEDs require a driver which runs on DC [the better case is constant driven], the space constraints are too high and there is not enough room for heat dissipation which in the US kills the driver (as running on 110/120AC is less efficient), and in Europe it tends to kill the LEDs because they get to be overdriven, but the driver dissipates less heat. The power factor on all them tends to be atrocious, usually 0.5phi. They tend to quite noisy, esp. when it comes to EMF. In short there is not enough space to have a decent LED driver along with enough space for heat dissipation for the LEDs (usually only 15%, being generous, of the energy will be emitted as light. The rest is heat, so if you see 8W of LED, more than 6.5W is just heat) Pretty much almost all LEDs you can buy in a retrofit case are almost guaranteed to be overdirven to show better numbers and be 'brighter'. Near ceiling larger fixtures can be designed for LEDs. They tend to have an actual 15-30k hours lifespan. Dimming the LEDs is the next atrocity, esp. when it comes to chopping the sine wave. The LED dirvers have to work with the chopped sine wave and detect how much it has been chopped to reduce the current or the PWM. About the AA(A) and the TV. I can control the TV w/ bluetooth and an app but I find that incovenient. However NiMH nominal voltage is 1.2V which fits the 1.5 of the alkaline batteries. It's good enough already. So yes, it takes different chemistry unless the remote controls provide built-in step-up/step-down converters, effectively variable operational voltage.
- benj111 3y agoI think it's more a case of enshitification. The first LEDs I got were metal bodied. One of them has gone in the past 10 years. So they must be around that lower bound by now. Tbf I don't think subsequent ones have been too bad. Re your TV. Ok your TV might be, my TV isn't, and I have plenty of other remotes, and then there's clocks and weighing scales and kids toys and all the other things that use aa batteries.
- xxs 3y ago> I think it's more a case of enshitification.The first LEDs I got were metal bodied. The heavier the better when it comes to such LEDs. Yes, it's possible to make them work okayish, and control the temps (LEDs should not go over 60C) but that would show poor lumens (and watts) on the box, and be expensive.
- rootusrootus 3y agoMost of this problem becomes a non-issue with the advent of LED filament bulbs. That's pretty close to the holy grail IMO. And besides, making everyone change every fixture in their house in order to take advantage of LED would just have meant it never happened. E26/E27 bulbs are going to be around for a while.
- xxs 3y ago>LED filament bulbs. Just lots of LEDs in series with higher target forward voltage. Still, LEDs are current driven devices and quite temperature sensitive, and still need a driver. The issues are not that different. >That's pretty close to the holy grail IMO. I guess we have a very different idea about the grail, then.
- rootusrootus 3y agoWe probably do. I like that filament bulbs have much smaller driver requirements and much better heat dissipation, and I can stuff 100W bulbs into enclosures without worry. The only thing I don't love is that they are somewhat more prone to flicker. Not enough that my eyes notice, but some might.
- 1970-01-01 3y agoDumb is a feature. If less things are there to defeat, we can change or fix the thing so it works and lasts much longer. Smart is an anti-feature.
- masklinn 3y agoModern chemistries don’t really do 1.5V (nominals are usually above 3V), so you need to package a buck and a boost converter alongside your cell(s). There are li-ion and LFP batteries in alkaline formats but they’re hardly going to be ideal, you’re probably better off going with 18650.
- aaronmdjones 3y agoOn the other hand, it's quite rare that a tool takes a single 1.5V cell. Many of them will take 2 or 4, and then you can make a double form factor 3V cell that will fit in most double AA holders. I've also seen manufacturers who make 3V or 3.2V cells in AA format, and then supply a dummy AA-shaped link with it, which is just a straight-through connection like a wire. Put one cell and one link in your tool, or two cells and two links.
- jve 3y ago> dummy AA-shaped link with it Can't find on Amazon. Care to share or make a photo please?
- aaronmdjones 3y agohttps://kk.org/cooltools/dummy-batteries/ https://kk.org/cooltools/dummy-batteries/
- ForkMeOnTinder 3y agoIf you're using these, be 100% sure your device connects the batteries in series, not in parallel, or you'll have a mess on your hands.
- aaronmdjones 3y agoYes, the page does mention this.
- vikramkr 3y agoI don't think anyone is intending to or wants to develop new batteries for consumer applications like that. The point here is large scale energy storage and maybe EVs which could be the closest thing to consumer tech. Lithium vaee batteries started development in the 1970s so that gives you an idea of the order of magnitude of the timeline. Hopefully that cycle is shorter now due to greater upfront interest and better tech
- est 3y agoChina sells them on Alibaba, not packed in AA/AAA but 18650. Review here https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1c34y1N7NU/ https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1c34y1N7NU/