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Is there a reason why European kettles are typically 2200W and UK kettles are 3000W? European plug sockets are typically rated for 16A, secured with a matching
by GuB-42 3y ago
Is there a reason why European kettles are typically 2200W and UK kettles are 3000W?
European plug sockets are typically rated for 16A, secured with a matching breaker and allowing for about 3500W of power. Appliances that use the full 3500W are rare but they exist, so it is not like it is illegal. So why don't Europeans get the 3000W kettles too?
Maybe some people have 10A circuits, maybe this is a margin so that other appliances can be plugged in the same circuit, or maybe it is just more expensive.
I have noticed that most 3000W+ appliances I can buy in France are more "professional", like what you can find in commercial kitchens or in workshops, but again, it does not mean they are not sold to consumers.
- mschuster91 3y ago> European plug sockets are typically rated for 16A, secured with a matching breaker and allowing for about 3500W of power. Appliances that use the full 3500W are rare but they exist, so it is not like it is illegal. So why don't Europeans get the 3000W kettles too? The British plug (and ring wiring scheme) was designed for two 13A electric heaters on a single ring, so continuous load. Meanwhile, German Schuko and the related French E plug are theoretically capable of 16A peak load, modern sockets are capable of 16A continuous load as well, but a lot of old installations and especially old sockets are rated for 10A only - so typical kettles are limited to 2200W/9.6A to leave a bit of headroom for older, more trigger-happy circuit breakers and other devices on the same circuit.
- lb1lf 3y agoI think - I am an electrical engineer working in the offshore industry, so I have only superficial knowledge of shore-based installations - anyway, I seem to recall that the Norwegian electrical code calls for Schuko not being used to carry more than 10A continously, 16A intermittent. However, until relatively recently, the average residential circuit was 10A, though you could get 16A if you asked for it - typically for tumble driers, washing machines and the like - so the market for appliances requiring more than 10A was quite slim. I am sure the appliance stores didn't want to have to explain to each and every customer that the beefy kettle they had just put on the counter might not work at their house - hence, 10A appliances for all. (Incidentally, I have a 3kW kettle I bought in the UK and a couple of 16A outlets on my kitchen counter.)
- tommiegannert 3y agoIn Sweden (Schuko), 1.5 mm² wall installations are rated for up to 13 A now, but used to be 10 A. It's the wires in the walls being the bottleneck, not the connectors. Dunno why they up-rated it. Can't imagine the copper is better now than it used to be.
- GuB-42 3y agoIt is possible that the copper really is better. AFAIK, a lot of wiring that is sold today is made of high grade oxygen free copper, which, thanks to improvement in manufacturing processes, is barely more expensive than the lower grade stuff. But even more important is the insulation. It has been consistently improved since cloth wires.
- atoav 3y agoI am an electrical engineer who has to learn all those norms. The normal eueopean "Schuko" plug is rated for 16A short term and 10A long term. Long in that context means everything above 1 hour of continous load, which should cover typical applications of water cookers. The wall sockets are typically the same, although 16A continous variants exist and old wall sockets with bad contacts can easily heat up enough that I would avoid ever going over 10A with them if it can be avoided.