4 ms·

I wonder if it's possible to replicate that circuit in a USA house but still stay within code. I'd love to make my tea faster!

londons_explore 3y ago
Install an A/C socket in your kitchen. Then buy a British 240 volt 3 kilowatt kettle from eBay and wire on a US A/C plug (NEMA 6-15) - hooking the brown and blue wires from the kettle to the two line pins, and the green/yellow wire to ground. This would be both code legal, safe and functional. It would also be possible to use a clothes dryer socket (NEMA 14-30), but you should install a smaller than usual breaker for the circuit (15 amps), since the british kettle normally has a 13 amp fuse in it's plug, but a NEMA plug does not contain that.
- bloopernova 3y ago
  Sweet, I had no idea it would be that straightforward. Thank you for the information!
TheSpiceIsLife 3y ago
I use a Panasonic flatbed microwave to heat precisely the volume of water I want by filling the tea cup(s) I want. Two minutes on high (1100 watt microwave output from, IIRC 1800 watt input) per cup. So usually two minutes for the one cup of I intend to drink. Every electric kettle I’ve ever owned has a minimum volume of at least two cups. Who bother heating two cups if I’m only going to drink one at a time. Tasmania (AU), 240v / 100amp supply to residential is standard.
- londons_explore 3y ago
  Any kettle with a flat bottom (no exposed heating element) can be used with far less water than the 'min' line - and some models don't have a min line at all. All new kettles have boil-dry protection as well, so they won't be damaged with no water at all.
  - TheSpiceIsLife 3y ago
    Might be time to upgrade the kettle. I really want one with temperature setting and insulation.
dboreham 3y ago
Pretty much. My office building was formerly a woodworking shop and has wiring for 220V. Long ago I bought a laser printer on eBay. The seller omitted to mention it was a 220/240V model (probably why it was cheap). Laser printers unlike most appliances are not dual voltage because the fuser is run directly off the ac supply line. So I wired in a 6-20 outlet and changed the plug. Worked fine for many years. I also have a table saw running from a 6-20 outlet. There is a 6-15 NEMA type that presumably would provide a UK compatible supply. I think the problem might be how to provide in-wall cabling that's to code for 220V. In my case I already had conduit with THHN wire. Not necessarily to code, consult your electrical engineer and lawyer before doing your own wiring, etc.
- rootusrootus 3y ago
  > I think the problem might be how to provide in-wall cabling that's to code for 220V That's no problem, standard romex nm-b is rated up to 600V. The only real difficulty in doing that in most US homes is that it's all or nothing. You'd have to upgrade all receptacles on the circuit to 240V. Depending on when your home was built, the kitchen might well have several circuits for the wall receptacles (even just one circuit per receptacle, not terribly uncommon in my area), which makes converting one of the circuits to 240V pretty trivial. Given how many appliances these days use switching power supplies capable of a wide range of voltage, I wouldn't be totally surprised if it was possible to wire an entire house with nothing but 6-15 or 6-20 receptacles and not have too much difficulty sourcing compatible appliances.
  - londons_explore 3y ago
    Most kitchen appliances require the right voltage. They normally have a heater or motor driven direct from the AC voltage. Most devices you'd use outside the kitchen usually will work on any voltage - with notable exceptions being vacuum cleaners, washing machines and fan heaters.
    - rootusrootus 3y ago
      For sure you'd want to be careful. My Kitchenaid stand mixer would certainly be unhappy if it were plugged into a 240V outlet, but Kitchenaid makes a 240V version that I could replace it with. A lot of work, but technically doable. Probably about as likely as wiring up DC receptacles throughout the house. Zero.

londons_explore 3y ago

Install an A/C socket in your kitchen. Then buy a British 240 volt 3 kilowatt kettle from eBay and wire on a US A/C plug (NEMA 6-15) - hooking the brown and blue wires from the kettle to the two line pins, and the green/yellow wire to ground. This would be both code legal, safe and functional. It would also be possible to use a clothes dryer socket (NEMA 14-30), but you should install a smaller than usual breaker for the circuit (15 amps), since the british kettle normally has a 13 amp fuse in it's plug, but a NEMA plug does not contain that.

bloopernova 3y ago
Sweet, I had no idea it would be that straightforward. Thank you for the information!

TheSpiceIsLife 3y ago

I use a Panasonic flatbed microwave to heat precisely the volume of water I want by filling the tea cup(s) I want. Two minutes on high (1100 watt microwave output from, IIRC 1800 watt input) per cup. So usually two minutes for the one cup of I intend to drink. Every electric kettle I’ve ever owned has a minimum volume of at least two cups. Who bother heating two cups if I’m only going to drink one at a time. Tasmania (AU), 240v / 100amp supply to residential is standard.

londons_explore 3y ago
Any kettle with a flat bottom (no exposed heating element) can be used with far less water than the 'min' line - and some models don't have a min line at all. All new kettles have boil-dry protection as well, so they won't be damaged with no water at all.
- TheSpiceIsLife 3y ago
  Might be time to upgrade the kettle. I really want one with temperature setting and insulation.

dboreham 3y ago

Pretty much. My office building was formerly a woodworking shop and has wiring for 220V. Long ago I bought a laser printer on eBay. The seller omitted to mention it was a 220/240V model (probably why it was cheap). Laser printers unlike most appliances are not dual voltage because the fuser is run directly off the ac supply line. So I wired in a 6-20 outlet and changed the plug. Worked fine for many years. I also have a table saw running from a 6-20 outlet. There is a 6-15 NEMA type that presumably would provide a UK compatible supply. I think the problem might be how to provide in-wall cabling that's to code for 220V. In my case I already had conduit with THHN wire. Not necessarily to code, consult your electrical engineer and lawyer before doing your own wiring, etc.

rootusrootus 3y ago
> I think the problem might be how to provide in-wall cabling that's to code for 220V That's no problem, standard romex nm-b is rated up to 600V. The only real difficulty in doing that in most US homes is that it's all or nothing. You'd have to upgrade all receptacles on the circuit to 240V. Depending on when your home was built, the kitchen might well have several circuits for the wall receptacles (even just one circuit per receptacle, not terribly uncommon in my area), which makes converting one of the circuits to 240V pretty trivial. Given how many appliances these days use switching power supplies capable of a wide range of voltage, I wouldn't be totally surprised if it was possible to wire an entire house with nothing but 6-15 or 6-20 receptacles and not have too much difficulty sourcing compatible appliances.
- londons_explore 3y ago
  Most kitchen appliances require the right voltage. They normally have a heater or motor driven direct from the AC voltage. Most devices you'd use outside the kitchen usually will work on any voltage - with notable exceptions being vacuum cleaners, washing machines and fan heaters.
  - rootusrootus 3y ago
    For sure you'd want to be careful. My Kitchenaid stand mixer would certainly be unhappy if it were plugged into a 240V outlet, but Kitchenaid makes a 240V version that I could replace it with. A lot of work, but technically doable. Probably about as likely as wiring up DC receptacles throughout the house. Zero.