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If you can run an L1 outlet (a nema 5-15 or 5-20 outlet) to the light pole, running an L2 circuit is literally identical work. The only change is a different re
by Kirby64 3y ago
If you can run an L1 outlet (a nema 5-15 or 5-20 outlet) to the light pole, running an L2 circuit is literally identical work. The only change is a different receptacle (a nema 6-15 or 6-20) and a dual pole breaker. The wire is exactly the same. The cost is essentially identical, maybe $50 more for the breaker if you use a GFCI one.
Then, you get 3.8kW of charging (240V, 16A from a 20A outlet) which is plenty for all but the longest daily commutes.
Sure, running a 7.2 or 9.2kW charger is nicer, but it's not actually necessary is almost any case and the cost of the wire is substantially higher to run a 50A circuit.
- belthesar 3y agoGood to know re: the circuit (my knowledge of electrical is pretty lacking). However, really, the circuit itself wasn't my primary concern so much as the unsecured attachment with regards to theft of the charger itself. Like lots of neighborhoods these days, I'm getting hit with Nextdoor alerts about "cars being broken into", and I imagine an electric car charger might be a tempting target.
- Kirby64 3y agoMany EVs (all Teslas, Kia EV6/Hyundai Ioniq 5, probably others) have a method for locking the EVSE to the car itself while charging/plugged in. For when you're not charging, that's what a lockbox of some sort is useful for as others have suggested. You need to weatherproof an outdoor outlet in the first place, so going the extra step of having an enclosure for the EVSE isn't too much harder or more expensive. Nobody is going to cut an EVSE cable... since if they do they're likely to get a tasty 240V.
- belthesar 3y agoYeah, I'm less concerned about a cable being cut as much as I am someone unplugging it from the outlet. Sounds like there's ways to think about this though! This is encouraging for me, as I would certainly prefer to get a BEV for my next vehicle.