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I positioned my right foot on the chip, took a breath, and reached around for a good side pull. As I grabbed it, the cobbles smooth beneath my fingers, I imagin

by aynyc 3y ago

I positioned my right foot on the chip, took a breath, and reached around for a good side pull. As I grabbed it, the cobbles smooth beneath my fingers, I imagined, just for a second, what would happen if I released the tension in my core. That’s all it would take for my foot to wiggle a millimeter to the side and skate off that chip. I’d plummet more than a hundred feet to the ground. I cleared my head, pulled through the move, and stood up onto the face, now in more secure territory. I listened to my heartbeat. I calmed my breath. I closed my eyes. A few minutes later, I scampered over the top of the cliff. I know the author and Austin have their demons. I just want to point out as someone who has solo that route, and know quite a few people who have done that as well, none of us ever thought about that. I dislike the way social media portrait free soloing, because like twitter, it's impossible to describe Hemingway in 280 characters. Best wish for those who are suffering, and I hope they can find ways to survive and even heal before it's too late.

asah 3y ago
So why do you solo? Honest question.
- aynyc 3y ago
  I didn't solo at my limit. The routes were easy, below my standard, and well known by me. The possibilities of so low that I just didn't think I would fall. I was good enough and confident enough that I want to experience freedom. During the solos, I didn't feel anything, it was mechanical, pure physical movements. I didn't have heightened sense or anything like that. In fact, it was less "arousal" than if I have rope and trying my absolute hardest on other routes. I also didn't have selfies or anything that would even prove I was there. But after the climbs, there was a sense of fulfillment, a quiet confidence and pride that simply make me happy. I didn't tell many people about my soloing because I did it for myself. Many of my partners/mentors have done bigger solos. All of the solos were done in quiet manner, and generally on less traffic routes or days. They weren't searching for meaning of life or next high. They simply want to climb quietly and competently and come home without any drama. I stopped soloing because I find it hard to take the next step, which is to solo harder and harder grades. I didn't like the way it made me feel. It became chasing glory rather than self expression.
- dsauerbrun 3y ago
  I don't solo regularly but I have soloed a few things(5.6 is the hardest I've soloed if you're familiar with climbing grades). my answer to this is basically once you've gotten to a certain level in climbing, some of the lower levels feel effortless and it doesn't actually feel risky. As an aside, roping up for some of that easier stuff wouldn't be worth it because it would just take too long. Take walking up stairs, that feels incredibly easy and risk free to your average person but if you slip and fall down a flight of stairs you will most likely get pretty badly injured or potentially die... but no one puts on a rope to go up stairs because the risk level is so low even if the consequence level is very high. that's how I feel about soloing and I suspect its how many others feel about it too. fwiw, climbing hard stuff on a rope is way more fun for me than easy stuff without one but to each their own

by aynyc 3y ago

asah 3y ago

So why do you solo? Honest question.

aynyc 3y ago
I didn't solo at my limit. The routes were easy, below my standard, and well known by me. The possibilities of so low that I just didn't think I would fall. I was good enough and confident enough that I want to experience freedom. During the solos, I didn't feel anything, it was mechanical, pure physical movements. I didn't have heightened sense or anything like that. In fact, it was less "arousal" than if I have rope and trying my absolute hardest on other routes. I also didn't have selfies or anything that would even prove I was there. But after the climbs, there was a sense of fulfillment, a quiet confidence and pride that simply make me happy. I didn't tell many people about my soloing because I did it for myself. Many of my partners/mentors have done bigger solos. All of the solos were done in quiet manner, and generally on less traffic routes or days. They weren't searching for meaning of life or next high. They simply want to climb quietly and competently and come home without any drama. I stopped soloing because I find it hard to take the next step, which is to solo harder and harder grades. I didn't like the way it made me feel. It became chasing glory rather than self expression.
dsauerbrun 3y ago
I don't solo regularly but I have soloed a few things(5.6 is the hardest I've soloed if you're familiar with climbing grades). my answer to this is basically once you've gotten to a certain level in climbing, some of the lower levels feel effortless and it doesn't actually feel risky. As an aside, roping up for some of that easier stuff wouldn't be worth it because it would just take too long. Take walking up stairs, that feels incredibly easy and risk free to your average person but if you slip and fall down a flight of stairs you will most likely get pretty badly injured or potentially die... but no one puts on a rope to go up stairs because the risk level is so low even if the consequence level is very high. that's how I feel about soloing and I suspect its how many others feel about it too. fwiw, climbing hard stuff on a rope is way more fun for me than easy stuff without one but to each their own