You're seeing the dark theme for the site. (I see the same thing when I click the checkbox in the top right corner of the page as when I disable JS.) Perhaps it

You're seeing the dark theme for the site. (I see the same thing when I click the checkbox in the top right corner of the page as when I disable JS.) Perhaps it's using JavaScript to detect that your browser is reporting that you prefer light-mode sites? Admittedly, the site could probably use CSS to make this decision as well, but I figured I'd mention it.