3 ms·

> How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them? Shouldn't be too hard. Based on the code of the examples it seems it can output

> How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them? Shouldn't be too hard. Based on the code of the examples it seems it can output polygonal meshes in ply format. Either your slicer natively supports that, or you can use something (for example blender) to convert the ply to a format your slicer supports. What can go wrong if the model "looks okay" but have some subtle geometric issue (like if it has a missing face, which makes it non-manifold or non-watertight) Nowadays many slicers have tools to heal such problems, but there can be dragons that way. I looked for an example object in their repo and found this one: https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/example_data/cactus/object.obj https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/e... If that is representative it is a very nice clean geometry. I have sliced it with prusa slicer no problem and I could be printing it within a minute of downloading it if I would need a 3d printed cactus in my life. > I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How noob you mean? If this would be literally your first print I would recommend printing first a sample file which came with your printer. (just to make sure everything is okay with the printer itself) But as a second print you can totally try to print one of these of course. Just don't give up the hobby if something goes wrong :) Something always goes wrong.

qup 4y ago
> How noob you mean? I successfully printed a hollow cube yesterday, my first ever print, and failed on about 6 attempts at a "mario ring" file. It's PETG and I'm just fiddling with settings, getting a lot of stringing etc. Anyway, very new, but I'm prepared for the learning curve. I'm a good debugger, and I don't give up easily, so hopefully that'll carry through to the printing.
- wkat4242 4y ago
  Like the others said, forget about petg until you know what you're doing. Just use PLA :)
- filoleg 4y ago
  I got into 3D printing from zero knowledge a couple of months ago, and i found PETG an absolute nightmare to deal with compared to PLA. Mind you, i only bought filament from Prusa and AtomicFilament, two very respectable manufacturers. Had zero issues with their PLA, and it looked beautiful. With PETG, no matter how much i tried adjusting live-z levels or playing in PrusaSlicer with print speed levels, temperature, layer height, etc., it all would mess up at some point. Out of 5 prints of the same object, I finally managed to get one great print out of PETG. But when I tried printing another one, I would start having various issues again and would have to adjust things again in hopes of eventually getting it right. I just went back to PLA and had zero issues at all since then. Even though I am aware of PLA disadvantages compared to PETG, I simply realized that for my purposes, they didn't matter nearly as much as consistency and ease of good prints.
  - qup 4y ago
    I'll check out PLA if I can't get PETG going properly. I also have some TPU to play with, but haven't yet. Thanks! I'm also going to re-run the cube to see if the same settings work a second time, prompted by your comment. I've really only had failures with the one model.
  - mitthrowaway2 4y ago
    I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I actually find PETG easier and more reliable to print with than PLA, aside from a little bit more stringing. It's especially good for large objects because the warping is very minimal, and it has more strength and flexibility than PLA, and better inter-layer bonding strength, so I don't have to worry as much about brittle failures or print orientation. I use a Prusa MK3S+, with Prusa's textured sheet. After setting the first-layer Z height properly and cleaning the bed with an alcohol pad, it works flawlessly basically every time. I've used both Prusa's PETG and 3rd party filaments with equal success. After many years of falling out of love with 3D printing, PETG helped me fall back in love with it.
    - krisoft 4y ago
      > I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I heard that PETG is more sensitive to humidity from the air than PLA. So maybe that is the difference? Maybe you live in a dryer climate and the person you are responding to has more moisture in the air?
- ehsankia 4y ago
  I'm also pretty new, and in my experience, when it gets tricky is support. Quality models for 3d printers are made to print without supports, but a lot of these normal models have a lot of weird details and geometries that require supports. And then you gotta fiddle with a bunch of settings to find the right parameters for it.

qup 4y ago

> How noob you mean? I successfully printed a hollow cube yesterday, my first ever print, and failed on about 6 attempts at a "mario ring" file. It's PETG and I'm just fiddling with settings, getting a lot of stringing etc. Anyway, very new, but I'm prepared for the learning curve. I'm a good debugger, and I don't give up easily, so hopefully that'll carry through to the printing.

wkat4242 4y ago
Like the others said, forget about petg until you know what you're doing. Just use PLA :)
filoleg 4y ago
I got into 3D printing from zero knowledge a couple of months ago, and i found PETG an absolute nightmare to deal with compared to PLA. Mind you, i only bought filament from Prusa and AtomicFilament, two very respectable manufacturers. Had zero issues with their PLA, and it looked beautiful. With PETG, no matter how much i tried adjusting live-z levels or playing in PrusaSlicer with print speed levels, temperature, layer height, etc., it all would mess up at some point. Out of 5 prints of the same object, I finally managed to get one great print out of PETG. But when I tried printing another one, I would start having various issues again and would have to adjust things again in hopes of eventually getting it right. I just went back to PLA and had zero issues at all since then. Even though I am aware of PLA disadvantages compared to PETG, I simply realized that for my purposes, they didn't matter nearly as much as consistency and ease of good prints.
- qup 4y ago
  I'll check out PLA if I can't get PETG going properly. I also have some TPU to play with, but haven't yet. Thanks! I'm also going to re-run the cube to see if the same settings work a second time, prompted by your comment. I've really only had failures with the one model.
- mitthrowaway2 4y ago
  I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I actually find PETG easier and more reliable to print with than PLA, aside from a little bit more stringing. It's especially good for large objects because the warping is very minimal, and it has more strength and flexibility than PLA, and better inter-layer bonding strength, so I don't have to worry as much about brittle failures or print orientation. I use a Prusa MK3S+, with Prusa's textured sheet. After setting the first-layer Z height properly and cleaning the bed with an alcohol pad, it works flawlessly basically every time. I've used both Prusa's PETG and 3rd party filaments with equal success. After many years of falling out of love with 3D printing, PETG helped me fall back in love with it.
  - krisoft 4y ago
    > I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I heard that PETG is more sensitive to humidity from the air than PLA. So maybe that is the difference? Maybe you live in a dryer climate and the person you are responding to has more moisture in the air?
ehsankia 4y ago
I'm also pretty new, and in my experience, when it gets tricky is support. Quality models for 3d printers are made to print without supports, but a lot of these normal models have a lot of weird details and geometries that require supports. And then you gotta fiddle with a bunch of settings to find the right parameters for it.