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I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them?

by qup 4y ago

moffkalast 4y ago
If you check the issues, the latest one is from Jozef Prusa interested in doing straight up Printables integration... so not that many.
dceddia 4y ago
I'm not sure what format it's generating these models in, but if they're SDL, you should be able to drop them into a slicer program (like PrusaSlicer, Cura, etc) and generate the gcode there (the 3D printer movement instructions). Then load that gcode into your printer (via SD card, wifi, whatever it supports) and go! If these aren't in SDL, but are some format Blender can open, then Blender can turn them into SDL. It looks from the description like it's compatible with Blender.
- kuida0r3 4y ago
  From the jupyter notebook in the repo [0], the output is in .ply or polygon file format which is used by some 3D scanners and can be converted to STL supported by most 3D printers. 0-https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/sample_text_to_3d.ipynb https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/s...
krisoft 4y ago
> How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them? Shouldn't be too hard. Based on the code of the examples it seems it can output polygonal meshes in ply format. Either your slicer natively supports that, or you can use something (for example blender) to convert the ply to a format your slicer supports. What can go wrong if the model "looks okay" but have some subtle geometric issue (like if it has a missing face, which makes it non-manifold or non-watertight) Nowadays many slicers have tools to heal such problems, but there can be dragons that way. I looked for an example object in their repo and found this one: https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/example_data/cactus/object.obj https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/e... If that is representative it is a very nice clean geometry. I have sliced it with prusa slicer no problem and I could be printing it within a minute of downloading it if I would need a 3d printed cactus in my life. > I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How noob you mean? If this would be literally your first print I would recommend printing first a sample file which came with your printer. (just to make sure everything is okay with the printer itself) But as a second print you can totally try to print one of these of course. Just don't give up the hobby if something goes wrong :) Something always goes wrong.
- qup 4y ago
  > How noob you mean? I successfully printed a hollow cube yesterday, my first ever print, and failed on about 6 attempts at a "mario ring" file. It's PETG and I'm just fiddling with settings, getting a lot of stringing etc. Anyway, very new, but I'm prepared for the learning curve. I'm a good debugger, and I don't give up easily, so hopefully that'll carry through to the printing.
  - wkat4242 4y ago
    Like the others said, forget about petg until you know what you're doing. Just use PLA :)
  - filoleg 4y ago
    I got into 3D printing from zero knowledge a couple of months ago, and i found PETG an absolute nightmare to deal with compared to PLA. Mind you, i only bought filament from Prusa and AtomicFilament, two very respectable manufacturers. Had zero issues with their PLA, and it looked beautiful. With PETG, no matter how much i tried adjusting live-z levels or playing in PrusaSlicer with print speed levels, temperature, layer height, etc., it all would mess up at some point. Out of 5 prints of the same object, I finally managed to get one great print out of PETG. But when I tried printing another one, I would start having various issues again and would have to adjust things again in hopes of eventually getting it right. I just went back to PLA and had zero issues at all since then. Even though I am aware of PLA disadvantages compared to PETG, I simply realized that for my purposes, they didn't matter nearly as much as consistency and ease of good prints.
    - qup 4y ago
      I'll check out PLA if I can't get PETG going properly. I also have some TPU to play with, but haven't yet. Thanks! I'm also going to re-run the cube to see if the same settings work a second time, prompted by your comment. I've really only had failures with the one model.
    - mitthrowaway2 4y ago
      I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I actually find PETG easier and more reliable to print with than PLA, aside from a little bit more stringing. It's especially good for large objects because the warping is very minimal, and it has more strength and flexibility than PLA, and better inter-layer bonding strength, so I don't have to worry as much about brittle failures or print orientation. I use a Prusa MK3S+, with Prusa's textured sheet. After setting the first-layer Z height properly and cleaning the bed with an alcohol pad, it works flawlessly basically every time. I've used both Prusa's PETG and 3rd party filaments with equal success. After many years of falling out of love with 3D printing, PETG helped me fall back in love with it.

I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them?

by qup 4y ago

I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them?

moffkalast 4y ago

If you check the issues, the latest one is from Jozef Prusa interested in doing straight up Printables integration... so not that many.

dceddia 4y ago

I'm not sure what format it's generating these models in, but if they're SDL, you should be able to drop them into a slicer program (like PrusaSlicer, Cura, etc) and generate the gcode there (the 3D printer movement instructions). Then load that gcode into your printer (via SD card, wifi, whatever it supports) and go! If these aren't in SDL, but are some format Blender can open, then Blender can turn them into SDL. It looks from the description like it's compatible with Blender.

kuida0r3 4y ago
From the jupyter notebook in the repo [0], the output is in .ply or polygon file format which is used by some 3D scanners and can be converted to STL supported by most 3D printers. 0-https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/sample_text_to_3d.ipynb https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/s...

krisoft 4y ago

> How many more steps have to occur between these models and me printing them? Shouldn't be too hard. Based on the code of the examples it seems it can output polygonal meshes in ply format. Either your slicer natively supports that, or you can use something (for example blender) to convert the ply to a format your slicer supports. What can go wrong if the model "looks okay" but have some subtle geometric issue (like if it has a missing face, which makes it non-manifold or non-watertight) Nowadays many slicers have tools to heal such problems, but there can be dragons that way. I looked for an example object in their repo and found this one: https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/example_data/cactus/object.obj https://github.com/openai/shap-e/blob/main/shap_e/examples/e... If that is representative it is a very nice clean geometry. I have sliced it with prusa slicer no problem and I could be printing it within a minute of downloading it if I would need a 3d printed cactus in my life. > I just got a 3D printer but I'm a total noob. How noob you mean? If this would be literally your first print I would recommend printing first a sample file which came with your printer. (just to make sure everything is okay with the printer itself) But as a second print you can totally try to print one of these of course. Just don't give up the hobby if something goes wrong :) Something always goes wrong.

qup 4y ago
> How noob you mean? I successfully printed a hollow cube yesterday, my first ever print, and failed on about 6 attempts at a "mario ring" file. It's PETG and I'm just fiddling with settings, getting a lot of stringing etc. Anyway, very new, but I'm prepared for the learning curve. I'm a good debugger, and I don't give up easily, so hopefully that'll carry through to the printing.
- wkat4242 4y ago
  Like the others said, forget about petg until you know what you're doing. Just use PLA :)
- filoleg 4y ago
  I got into 3D printing from zero knowledge a couple of months ago, and i found PETG an absolute nightmare to deal with compared to PLA. Mind you, i only bought filament from Prusa and AtomicFilament, two very respectable manufacturers. Had zero issues with their PLA, and it looked beautiful. With PETG, no matter how much i tried adjusting live-z levels or playing in PrusaSlicer with print speed levels, temperature, layer height, etc., it all would mess up at some point. Out of 5 prints of the same object, I finally managed to get one great print out of PETG. But when I tried printing another one, I would start having various issues again and would have to adjust things again in hopes of eventually getting it right. I just went back to PLA and had zero issues at all since then. Even though I am aware of PLA disadvantages compared to PETG, I simply realized that for my purposes, they didn't matter nearly as much as consistency and ease of good prints.
  - qup 4y ago
    I'll check out PLA if I can't get PETG going properly. I also have some TPU to play with, but haven't yet. Thanks! I'm also going to re-run the cube to see if the same settings work a second time, prompted by your comment. I've really only had failures with the one model.
  - mitthrowaway2 4y ago
    I don't want to deny your experience but I want to provide a counterpoint. I actually find PETG easier and more reliable to print with than PLA, aside from a little bit more stringing. It's especially good for large objects because the warping is very minimal, and it has more strength and flexibility than PLA, and better inter-layer bonding strength, so I don't have to worry as much about brittle failures or print orientation. I use a Prusa MK3S+, with Prusa's textured sheet. After setting the first-layer Z height properly and cleaning the bed with an alcohol pad, it works flawlessly basically every time. I've used both Prusa's PETG and 3rd party filaments with equal success. After many years of falling out of love with 3D printing, PETG helped me fall back in love with it.