There are themes you can change (bottom of page), but I don't think any of them significantly improve it. Worse still, everything is stuffed into <div> elements

There are themes you can change (bottom of page), but I don't think any of them significantly improve it. Worse still, everything is stuffed into <div> elements and it also makes Firefox's "No Style" mode basically useless. Not only did the author get way too clever with CSS effects, but couldn't even be bothered to use semantic HTML so it could degrade nicely.