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I got into surfing a couple years ago and try to go as often as I can now (usually a few times per week). I don't care that much about getting better, though o
by danenania 4y ago
I got into surfing a couple years ago and try to go as often as I can now (usually a few times per week).
I don't care that much about getting better, though of course it happens naturally with time. I just like being in the ocean and how it forces me to be present. It never fails to bring me a sense of peace while I'm out there, and I feel great after a session.
The downside is that the places I'd be happy living in are now greatly reduced.