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If you are interested in this topic, I recommend _The Wave_ by Susan Casey. She covers both rogue waves and big wave surfers.
by kldavis4 4y ago
If you are interested in this topic, I recommend _The Wave_ by Susan Casey. She covers both rogue waves and big wave surfers.
- cossatot 4y agoI thought this book was decent, and I don't know of any others better in the niche, but I wanted a bit more science than was presented. I think Casey got too intimidated by the scientists to really try to understand the models at all, and then spent too much time fawning over Laird Hamilton. But perhaps that was a decision made by the editors rather than by Casey navigating two very different groups of protagonists.
- kldavis4 4y agoYeah, it was definitely not what I was expecting in terms of balance between the science and the surfing personalities. My impression was that she really lacked enough hard science material (that was sufficiently interesting given the audience). I will admit that in the end I was way more interested in the big wave surfing, a topic I really didn't appreciate before.