3 ms·

Climb a V10 boulder outdoors!

• SubMachineGhost 4y ago
  Good luck! I would love to hear more about your training plans if you have set up any. Mine are modest, send 3 v5~v6 benchmarks in my area, red point a 5.11a and solo a multi pitch.
  • matthewwolfe 4y ago
    It sounds like if your goal is V5-6, you better be bumping up that 5.11 sport climb goal! Certainly at that bouldering level 5.12 is in your future in no time. In terms of training plan, I’m generally very loose. I’m definitely blessed to be very lightweight naturally, and I think I’ve developed some pretty strong fingers over time. That combination lends itself to crimps which is definitely my preferred style. Board climbing like on a moonboard or kilter board are fantastic to build power, but be careful how frequently and how intensely you climb on those. My fingers tend to feel quite tweaky after a lot of board sessions. Ultimately climbing is a game of time and consistency. Listen to your body and keep grinding at it, and you’ll definitely see progress! Good luck to you as well!
• defrost 4y ago
  What is a V10? Outdoors in Aus. on the Ewbank freeclimbing scale, the blade line to Federation Peak is an easy (albeit highly exposed) 17 [1], whereas Cape Raoul poles [2] rate about a 22. [1] https://zenandtheartofclimbing.com/50-classic-climbs-australia-blade-ridge/ https://zenandtheartofclimbing.com/50-classic-climbs-austral... [2] https://zenandtheartofclimbing.com/50-classic-climbs-australia-pole-dancer/ https://zenandtheartofclimbing.com/50-classic-climbs-austral...
  • matthewwolfe 4y ago
    It’s hard to compare v scale to aus scale and I’m definitely not very familiar, but googling says that v10 is roughly equal to 31 on the aus scale. Of course bouldering is also typically 5m tall or less, and it’s very hard to compare boulders to routes. I think the equivalent font grade is 7c+