8 ms·

Yeah, from my understanding, basically try to keep the engine load light until at least you’ve warmed your coolant to operating temperature, but ideally 5-10 mi

Yeah, from my understanding, basically try to keep the engine load light until at least you’ve warmed your coolant to operating temperature, but ideally 5-10 minutes beyond that as your oil(s) will take longer to heat as they’re more viscous than coolant. Basically, drive like a grandma for ~10-20 minutes before even moderately giving it the business. The flip side of this is that, especially if you’ve got direct port fuel injection, you’ll actually want to give it the business on occasion (once properly warmed up) for best operation, as the detergent from an increased fuel spray can help to break up carbon buildup on the top of your pistons. Either way you’ll likely want to book in carbon cleanup as a periodic maintenance item.

givemeethekeys 4y ago
Thats asking for a lot, considering my entire commute is 10 minutes, but I hit the highway 1 minute in.
- jonwest 4y ago
  Honestly, the other commenter hit the nail on the head in that "optimum" doesn't mean "necessary"—but 10 minutes of a commute isn't enough to get your engine fully up to working temperature and you are shortening its lifespan. Maybe it doesn't matter to you, and that's totally fine. If you're changing vehicles every couple of years you're probably not even going to run into needing significant repairs as a result of it, but if you're planning on keeping your vehicles for a longer period of time it's definitely something you should consider.
- Brian_K_White 4y ago
  It's like lithium ion batteries. There is a set of "rules" for taking the best possible care of the battery, but you mostly can't actually follow them, while still getting any utility out of them since adhering to them strictly is almost more effort than living without a battery. So all that's reasonable is simply to be aware of the ideals, and by inference the anti-ideals, and let them guide whatever freedom you do have, while just using the thing however you need to. If you need to actually use your laptop on batteries freque tly, then go ahead and allow it to charge to 100% instead of limiting it to 50% to 80%. If you live somewhere cold and need to use a device in the cold, well then you just go ahead and use it outside of the ideal temperature range. But the knowledge is still useful because there are still plenty of times where you could do any number of things and don't much care which since they're all equal effort, but they aren't all equally good for your equipment, and all else being equal, you would be just as happy to adopt a habit that gives x extra years of lufe than one that removes x years of life, if you simply knew about it. Like, you don't really care that much where in your house you plop some device when you're not using it for weeks at a time, but a shelf in a covered cabinet is better than a table in direct sunlight, is better than sitting directly on top of a steam radiator. Your work commute precludes the absolute ideal, but within your limits there is still a lot of opportunity to do things more vs less optimally. You might intentionally take local roads to the next exit, or for merely 10 miles even the whole way. Or just don't even worry about it at all because diffs and trannies are really not what die first or most, and trannies do warm up some just from the torque converter pumping and the radiator loop. And manuals just aren't a problem no matter what. They may shift harder but they aren't being hurt much. In any climate that even has cold, everything else will rust to junk before a manual tranny even needs a new clutch let alone any kind of actual wear to the gears or synchros.

givemeethekeys 4y ago

Thats asking for a lot, considering my entire commute is 10 minutes, but I hit the highway 1 minute in.

jonwest 4y ago
Honestly, the other commenter hit the nail on the head in that "optimum" doesn't mean "necessary"—but 10 minutes of a commute isn't enough to get your engine fully up to working temperature and you are shortening its lifespan. Maybe it doesn't matter to you, and that's totally fine. If you're changing vehicles every couple of years you're probably not even going to run into needing significant repairs as a result of it, but if you're planning on keeping your vehicles for a longer period of time it's definitely something you should consider.
Brian_K_White 4y ago
It's like lithium ion batteries. There is a set of "rules" for taking the best possible care of the battery, but you mostly can't actually follow them, while still getting any utility out of them since adhering to them strictly is almost more effort than living without a battery. So all that's reasonable is simply to be aware of the ideals, and by inference the anti-ideals, and let them guide whatever freedom you do have, while just using the thing however you need to. If you need to actually use your laptop on batteries freque tly, then go ahead and allow it to charge to 100% instead of limiting it to 50% to 80%. If you live somewhere cold and need to use a device in the cold, well then you just go ahead and use it outside of the ideal temperature range. But the knowledge is still useful because there are still plenty of times where you could do any number of things and don't much care which since they're all equal effort, but they aren't all equally good for your equipment, and all else being equal, you would be just as happy to adopt a habit that gives x extra years of lufe than one that removes x years of life, if you simply knew about it. Like, you don't really care that much where in your house you plop some device when you're not using it for weeks at a time, but a shelf in a covered cabinet is better than a table in direct sunlight, is better than sitting directly on top of a steam radiator. Your work commute precludes the absolute ideal, but within your limits there is still a lot of opportunity to do things more vs less optimally. You might intentionally take local roads to the next exit, or for merely 10 miles even the whole way. Or just don't even worry about it at all because diffs and trannies are really not what die first or most, and trannies do warm up some just from the torque converter pumping and the radiator loop. And manuals just aren't a problem no matter what. They may shift harder but they aren't being hurt much. In any climate that even has cold, everything else will rust to junk before a manual tranny even needs a new clutch let alone any kind of actual wear to the gears or synchros.